DIY: 2004 V70 2.5T PCV Job, a Brief Job (110K miles)

[cn90]

DIY: 2004 V70 2.5T PCV Job, a Brief Job (110K miles)

Please READ the update (Oct 2025): no need to remove Intake Manifold.

- This is an "inexpensive preventive replacement of PCV system" at 110K miles.

- My experience over the years when I did the PCV on my P80 cars that at 100K-110K, I can do a mini DIY PCV.

1. The 1998 V70 with 100K, very little sludge, all components were still OK.
2. The 1998 S70 with 150K, the vent pipe (plastic broke during removal), so I used 5/8-inch hose mod to reduce smoking dipstick. Info in forum:

DIY: 1998 Volvo S70 GLT PCV Modification, how to get rid of smoking dipstick!
viewtopic.php?t=53448


PROCEDURES:

- Since my 2004 V70 2.5T has only 110K and runs fine, I decided to do a “mini PCV tune-up”.

The big tune-up (replacing other hoses, rubber inserts at Oil Trap etc.) is for later at 150K or so.

- So, if you have only 100K-110K and do not suspect any significant sludge, you can do this mini PCV to save $...LOL.

- I only bought the Banjo Bolt from FCPEuro. This is b/c of rare reports of the horizontal pin breaking off ---> sucked into engine causing broken valves. Check Volvo website with your VIN to be sure you get the correct bolt. I bought Genuine Volvo 31325709 for $15.

- I use grass trimmer spool to poke the plastic vacuum pipe.

- My factory Banjo bolt has a pin. Basically this is a conventional PCV valve (the $10 PCV valve you see in Chevy, Ford, Honda etc.) that is embedded in this Banjo bolt.

- Manifold gasket: I re-used mine as I have done this many times without issues as long as you don’t damage it. Best is to get new gasket but you need to cut a slit for the passenger side infamous stud area.

- Anyway, at 110K, this is all you need.

- If the small plastic pipe breaks, you can buy a generic plastic pipe or thick silicone hose, rather buying the whole kit for T6 engine ($45). All you need is a thick-walled hose. Search forum but I think this particular hose has an I.D. = 3.5 mm according to this thread:
viewtopic.php?t=84363

- So, all in all, if you do it my way, it only costs you $15 for this mini DIY PCV.

1. Info on how to remove Intake Manifold is in this forum. And on youtube video by FCPEuro:





2. All you need is gently lift the manifold up. Watch the fuel line connection: press the quick-connect plastic UPWARD to release from the metal line. You may want to cap the metal line with some ziploc bag and rubber band to prevent dirt from entering the fuel system.

3. The Banjo bolt has a copper washer. I re-used it as long as the indented side faces the manifold.
The indentation comes from previous tightening, as long as the same orientation is respected, you will be fine.

4. Use the grass trimmer spool to poke the hole, it should come out the other side (disconnect it from the oil trap first). If not, the plastic pipe is broken. Best is to replace it with generic 3.5-mm hose.

2004-V70-PCV-05.jpg (302.75 KiB) Viewed 7181 times

5. Wood trick to lift I.M. Clean throttle body too. Turn the black side UPWARD before spraying carb cleaner to prevent carb cleaner from entering the internals of the TB.

2004-V70-PCV-06.jpg (361.47 KiB) Viewed 7181 times

6. I use a small piece of paper towel to hold the 10-mm socket for that passenger side infamous bolt.
That is all folks for 110K PCV service, no need to do the whole thing.
At 150K, I will replace the infamous Hose-Vent combo pipe (this thingy costs $150!)…

[cn90]

If you ever break the hard plastic pipe, Volvo dealer sells the banjo connector (incl the hard plastic pipe) for about $40.

The other option is to use a thick-walled rubber hose to span the broken ends of the hard plastic pipe.
I wrote the detail of the rubber hose in this thread below:

Vacuum hose to banjo bolt broke, where and what does it do?
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forum ... 73#p596773

[erikv11]

So you are recommending to (1) replace the banjo bolt preemptively and (2) while you are in there check to see if the pipe is broken or needs replacing (hopefully not! or the job gets bigger). Sounds like a good idea.

A couple comments

...
- If the small plastic pipe breaks, you can buy a generic plastic pipe or thick silicone hose, rather buying the whole kit for T6 engine ($45). All you need is a thick-walled hose. Search forum but I think this particular hose has an I.D. = 3.5 mm according to this thread:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forum ... hp?t=84363
...

Never use silicone hose for PCV applications, it will eventually sweat oil and make a huge mess. If you do switch to DIY hose here then consider using some kind of oil-rated hose like fuel line etc. Radiator hoses are not oil rated, as PCV channels they will last a while sure but can turn to mush. There are many posts about this in the P80 forum.

...
- So, all in all, if you do it my way, it only costs you $15 for this mini DIY PCV.
...

The banjo bolt is actually $17 at FCP, plus shipping so a little over $20. Consider just ordering new copper washers for it too, rather than re-use. They are cheap.

[- Pete -]

Yes to new (or annealed) Cu crush washers, as Erik mentions.

Very silly suggestion to 1. reuse such an inexpensive item that 2. Can be quite vexing, painful, and difficult to install and 3. could create a lot of frustration for you were it to not seal. This is NOT an area you want to have to revisit for a silly oil/boost PSI/vacuum leak due to reusing old crush washers. Same as the oil pan or transmission. Always new. No exceptions (unless it’s Cu & you anneal it).

I’ve got a peg in the shop with about 50 of these Cu washers hanging on it. These cars have this size Cu crush washer in quite a few places. Inevitably, you WILL drop at least one of them when you attempt re-installing the intake manifold banjo bolt. Who wants to spend a half hour looking for a $.10 washer because you were too cheap to get some spares? Not me.

Buying a new banjo bolt is, however, very commendable.

Some of the PCV items certainly can be reused, but for as many hours as go into a proper “mini” P2 PCV job, definitely not worth it to go skimpy. Especially considering how many miles your parts/labor “should” be good for. I have taken some gambles on cheap parts & gotten lucky. For a P2 PCV job where intake/banjo removal is necessary though, not a chance.

Also, the easiest angle of attack for the banjo bolt that I’ve come upon is to 1. Remove ETA/ETM & associated piping, 2. Loosen intake manifold bolts, 3. reach underneath the manifold with your right hand (which is wielding a flex head ratchet & socket (or flex head box wrench)). You’ll pretty much be laying on the engine/cardboard. It sucks, but this is (hands down) the fastest & least aggravating way to remove/reinstall the banjo bolt & washers.

Also, using mileage as an indicator to do/not do a PCV overhaul is not, by itself, completely valid. The manner (and the fallout from it) in which the car/engine has historically been used IS the indicator. Your engine, from the sounds of it, wasn’t used in short spurts prior to you acquiring it. Engines that have been used/neglected in this manner will likely be subject to a much more rigorous PCV (and possibly oil pan) overhaul. Plus, it doesn’t make sense to do a “mini” 40k before doing a “maxi” PCV.

[abscate]

It wouldn’t make sense if they were the same car.

[cn90]

Couple thoughts...

- The original post is from 2019, thus the Banjo bolt price of $15. It is now $15.38, thanks to inflation...

- Oil trap: I have documented in forum the cutaway view...it is just a simple box. You can clean it and re-use. Maybe replace it at 250K miles. When I wrote the original PCV DIY some 10 yrs, ago, I replaced the oil trap simply bc everyone was replacing it. Only to find out later I did not have to. Anyway, at 110K, re-use oil trap.

- Re crush washers. If people have spare washers, by all means, replace them. I have re-used crush washers > 100 times. As long as the same orientation is respected, never had a leak.
We live in a throw away society, thus the mentality of throwing away stuff, however cheap it is.
Millions of these crush washers go to garbage site every year.

The BMW E39 oil filter comes with a copper washer included. The Volvo P2 Mahle oil filter comes w/o crush washer. Go figure.

Anyway, replace washers if you wish. I re-use washers w/o issues in many PCV jobs...

[cn90]

If anyone ever breaks the hard plastic pipe, no need to buy the PN 30731007, which is $45 for just
a broken hard plastic pipe.

The Fix is in the thread below using appropriate fuel hose + spring clamps.

Vacuum hose to banjo bolt broke, where and what does it do?
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forum ... p?p=597052

[cn90]

I wrote this DIY in 2019.

Fast forward 5 years later 2024.

The 2006 S60 with 106K miles needs some maintenance, so I combined the tstat job abd PCV Banjo bolt/cleaning orifice
with Intake Manifold in situ. This saves the hassles of removing the I.M.

Details in this thread:

Re: How-to: Replacing the Thermostat Housing on a Newer P2 Without Touching the Power Steering:

viewtopic.php?p=653807

[cn90]

Update Oct 2025...No need to remove Intake Manifold.

The 2006 S60 with 106K miles needs some basic maintenance...

- I combined the tstat job (I use Facet brand this time, made in Italy) with the infamous Banjo bolt replacement.

- Also cleaned the PCV orifice.




1. You need to watch the youtube video on P2 S60 alternator by FCPEuro as posted above but:
- No need to d/c the PS hose/line (it is messy), once the PS Pump bolts are removed, you can simply
swing the PS Pump sideways.
- You can remove the Upper Rad hose (7-mm wrench) to make it easier: optional.
- FCPEuro video keeps saying 12-mm bolts, but all the bolts (PS Pump and Alternator) in the 2006 S60 were 10-mm.
- D/c the battery ground cable first.

2. Serpentine belt: T60 + special serp belt tool (Harbor Freight).

3. Remove the oil dipstick and set it aside, cover the dipstick housing with glove to prevent debris
from falling inside.
The large Turbo Cooler hose: remove it (7-mm clamp).
The plastic lid/housing for ECU/TCU...it takes 1 min to remove it...this gives you better access for the ratchet etc.

4. PS Pump: 3 mounting bolts and 1 bolt holding the bracket. All = 10-mm.

5. Alternator: 3 bolts. All = 10-mm. I did not d/c the battery cable, I left it attached bc all I need was a
loose alternator so I can move it around. No need to take it out of engine compartment.

NOTE: I was "lazy" and did not loosen the AC compressor's 2 BOTTOM bolts. During reinstallation of the alternator, I could not get it in that tight space. Took 30 min to find out I needed to loosen (do not remove) the bottom 2 bolts of the AC compressor!

6. The infamous banjo bolt (17-mm) can now be removed.
NOTE the 2 copper washers. You can use new washers.
I simply re-used these washers, just make sure they come back to the same orientation.
The side facing the Banjo bolt will have slight indentation.

7. I used a grass trimmer spool to clean the PCV orifice.
This hard plastic pipe is famous for breaking if you do the PCV the other way (removing the intake manifold).
When you clean the orifice this way (with the I.M. in situ), you minimize the risks of breaking the hard plastic pipe.
---> If you ever break the plastic pipe, no need to panic, search forum for a rubber hose to span the broken ends:
I wrote it up a while ago.

That is it boys and girls, if you combine the thermostat job with the PCV Banjo bolt/cleaning the PCV orifice, you
save a lot of hassles...

---

Volvo-S60-Tstat-01.jpg (127.32 KiB) Viewed 892 times

Volvo-S60-Tstat-02.jpg (139.62 KiB) Viewed 892 times

S60-Alternator.jpg (89.72 KiB) Viewed 892 times