DIY 2004 V70 Sachs Quick Strut (FCPEuro)

[cn90]

Just saw on IPD website, Sachs Quick Struts are back. Interesting...

FCPEuro website: Sachs Quick Struts not available...

[cn90]

I just did a quick math what it costs me for quality parts (preferably made in Germany or good Euro countries etc., no Chinese stuff).

It is $338 each side, not including installation cost (forgot to factor in the cross nut #9 when I did this photo; $10/each).

If FCP were to do this service (assemble the whole set for the customer), it'd cost even more.
So you can see why Sachs Quick Struts, at $260, have been popular. The problem is: we only know the strut is Sachs, and have no idea where each individual component comes from...

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Strut-Parts.jpg (49.43 KiB) Viewed 2568 times

[cn90]

Thanks @abscate for the above trick (jack it up a bit and hit with impact gun)...

Anyway, update on the brand-new Lemforder end links from FCPEuro.

I don't know what Lemforder did, but over the years, I have found that the first few turns are nice, then it gets increasingly harder and harder. Do they make the stud tapered (increasing diameter as you go into it)? Or they change the thread pitch further in?
Whatever they do, it is tighter as you go in, I broke the T30 bit (lower end of the end link is T30, upper end is T40).
Also, the factorylower nut is 15-mm, the new nut is 16-mm.
Don't mix them, never know they have different thread pitch!

Anyway, heat works, but since this is a brand new end link, I used a tiny tiny amount of heat, maybe 1/2 inch of
blue flame from the propane torch for 30 sec, just to warm the new nut, then it was easy, no more broken Torx bit.

[abscate]

Thanks @abscate for the above trick (jack it up a bit and hit with impact gun)...

Send checks to wisechatmgr for that gem…

[cn90]

I find out the why the Lemforder End Links have such tight lock nut.

It is called "Stover Lock Nut"...during the mfg process, the top of the nut is squeezed a bit,
creating a conical shape, as you tighten it, once you hit the conical part, it is very very tight.

I only wish they squeeze it less so it is somewhat tight but not tight enough to destroy the Torx
bit used as counterhold!

Anyway, heating just the conical part definitely helps a lot bc it expands the nut.
Even with heat, it was still tight!

Another possible trick is to use a junk bolt with the same thread pitch and just tighten the nut in
and out multiple times to loosen the nut a bit (use oil on the threads).

Or just use a standard nut, just add Loctite when doing it.

Anyway, see the video below to see how a Stover Lock Nut is made...

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Stover-Lock-Nut.jpg (27.59 KiB) Viewed 2508 times

[cn90]

Update...

I am the O.P.

The 2004 V70 had Quick Strut around 110K miles.
It is now at 141K miles, or 4 yrs/31K miles later.
Works perfect.

PS: the bad report on Quick Strut seems to come from P80 cars.

[ignatz]

I recently did the strut mount bearing, spring seat job on my 02 V70, and while the while the swapping of those parts went well, the end link's were a battle with cutting wheel, saw and bad words. If one of the other of my Volvos need the same job, I might have to look into an impact gun.

[cn90]

Actually the key thing about endlinks...

- Whenever doing strut, replace the endlinks too. I use Lemforder.
This way you only have to disconnect the lower end, where it is attached to the sway bar.

- If the allen key or Torx side is strip, use a pair of vice-grips and grab the back side of the ball joint (on the end link).
You will destroy the endlink but at least you can remove it.

[abscate]

Actually the key thing about endlinks...

- Whenever doing strut, replace the endlinks too. I use Lemforder.
This way you only have to disconnect the lower end, where it is attached to the sway bar.

- If the allen key or Torx side is strip, use a pair of vice-grips and grab the back side of the ball joint (on the end link).
You will destroy the endlink but at least you can remove it.

New strut , new endlink. They grind off in 10 seconds.