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How much to tighten worm gears? (Hose clamps, jubilee clamps, band clamps)

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
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abscate  
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Re: How much to tighten worm gears? (Hose clamps, jubilee clamps, band clamps)

Post by abscate »

If you source these from a reputable manufacturer and distributor they are superior to hose clamps.

Like other things, if you buy cheap knock offs, they arent
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Post by scot850 »

Those clamps are interesting and they are similar to the PITA ones for the wiper area drain hoses at the back of the engine compartment!

One of the other things to note is that then the connecting pipe gets that grubby, the hose also need to be replaced as it was worn internally and the ridges form on the inside they have difficult sealing again as the pipe goes soft.

Neil.
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Post by 454cid »

800artfreed wrote: 18 Jul 2022, 12:03 Has anyone switched over to the "self adjusting" spring hose clamps? These are the kind that need a pair of pliers to grip one tab and the opposite two tabs, squeeze and move the clamp. I ask because a promotional/explanatory video makes the case that these clamps expand and contract as the coolant temperature changes reducing stress and maintaining a tight seal. I attached a sample clamp picture.


hose clamp.jpg
Thanks.
Jason
I have them from the factory on my Chevy truck. A lot of guys don't like them and replace them, but I like them. There are special "pliers" to remove and install them much easier. They're constant tension band clamps. I've purchased some smaller ones from a US company called Rotoclip, but they don't seem to be as heavy as what GM uses, which I believe are actually made by one of the European clamp companies, for which industrial distribution in the US is not good.... I searched online since I wanted to purchase by size not application.

You do need to be more precise in the sizing when selecting a clamp for a particular hose.
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Post by volvolugnut »

To answer the original hose clamp torque question, see this link.
https://www.normaamericasds.com/blogs/p ... ose-clamps

I would assume other brands would have similar torque specs for similar type clamps.

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Post by abscate »

And the other thing we learn is Norma and ABA are the same group.

Soon all clamps will be Taco Bell
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Post by MrAl »

800artfreed wrote: 18 Jul 2022, 12:03 Has anyone switched over to the "self adjusting" spring hose clamps? These are the kind that need a pair of pliers to grip one tab and the opposite two tabs, squeeze and move the clamp. I ask because a promotional/explanatory video makes the case that these clamps expand and contract as the coolant temperature changes reducing stress and maintaining a tight seal. I attached a sample clamp picture.


hose clamp.jpg
Thanks.
Jason
Hello,

I have used something like that in the distant past. They were not flat metal just a very very heavy gauge spring steel wire that was bent in a circle and had the ends sticking out so you can squeeze them together and that would open the clamp. Havent seen them in years though and dont have any on my Volvo. Not sure if you can use them on anything that has high pressure though if the pressure inside the hose is enough i suppose it could open the clamp by expanding the hose which then expands the clamp.
I would also suppose that if the metal of the pipe is not the same as the metal of the clamp, then one will expand more than the other with heat. If the pipe expands more it means the hose rubber gets squeezed more with heat, if the clamp expands more than the hose becomes more loose. With thermal cycling who knows what could go wrong.

The kind that were original on my Volvo where the kind that you need a tool to install and they are not reusable. You 'crimp' them on, and i guess cut them off to get them off. I had to cut mine off when i had to replace the SAS valve when i replaced the SAS air pump. Replaced the clamps with the worm style hose clamps and they have been working ok now for 7 years.

What i like about the worm style hose clamps is you can get all sizes from about 1/4 inch diameter on up to several inches diameter. You can also daisy chain smaller ones together to make bigger ones. I had to do that with a fix for one of my small refrigerators that had no defroster. I had gotten some huge hose clamps and clamped two high power resistors to the freezer compartment and powered them with a transformer when i wanted to defrost. They held the resistors tight to the freezer metal pretty well and lasted years and years. That fridge has been retired now though.
I’ve been driving a Volvo long before anyone ever paid me to drive one.
That's probably because I've been driving one since 2015 and nobody has offered to pay me yet.
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Post by abscate »

The kind that were original on my Volvo where the kind that you need a tool to install and they are not reusable. You 'crimp' them on, and i guess cut them off to get them off. I had to cut mine off when i had to replace the SAS valve when i replaced the SAS air pump. Replaced the clamps with the worm style hose clamps and they have been working ok now for 7 years.
:D :D :D


How many of us have a 20 inch lb torque wrench for clamps? I usually use a screwdriver and 7 mm socket, hiding my face in shame until I get it oetikerred.
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Post by 454cid »

MrAl wrote: 19 Jul 2022, 00:01
I have used something like that in the distant past. They were not flat metal just a very very heavy gauge spring steel wire that was bent in a circle and had the ends sticking out so you can squeeze them together and that would open the clamp. Havent seen them in years though and dont have any on my Volvo.
I think I had some of those on my A70 Toyota Supra, or maybe it was my Isuzu built Chevy LUV truck. They're actually rated for higher clamping than the band clamps.

They can be had in single wire and double wire version.

I think my 69 Buick would have had a few of the single wire clamps when it was new. I've considered getting a few for it.
1996 850
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2010 Ford Focus SE
2006 Cadillac CTS
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Post by 454cid »

abscate wrote: 19 Jul 2022, 04:18 How many of us have a 20 inch lb torque wrench for clamps? I usually use a screwdriver and 7 mm socket, hiding my face in shame until I get it oetikerred.
I have an in-lb torque wrench, but I don't recall it's range off hand. I bought it long ago, when I was trying not to strip out the water pump bolts going into the aluminum timing chain cover on my Buick 350. I've used it this year, but I don't recall what for, for sure. Probably the water pump bolts on the 850, since they're small and go into aluminum, just like on the Buick.

I have never used a torque wrench on a hose clamp, but I don't have very many worm drives any more. I may give it a shot just to see how tight/lose the spec is, compared to what I'd do by feel.
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Post by MrAl »

454cid wrote: 19 Jul 2022, 05:28
abscate wrote: 19 Jul 2022, 04:18 How many of us have a 20 inch lb torque wrench for clamps? I usually use a screwdriver and 7 mm socket, hiding my face in shame until I get it oetikerred.
I have an in-lb torque wrench, but I don't recall it's range off hand. I bought it long ago, when I was trying not to strip out the water pump bolts going into the aluminum timing chain cover on my Buick 350. I've used it this year, but I don't recall what for, for sure. Probably the water pump bolts on the 850, since they're small and go into aluminum, just like on the Buick.

I have never used a torque wrench on a hose clamp, but I don't have very many worm drives any more. I may give it a shot just to see how tight/lose the spec is, compared to what I'd do by feel.
Hi,

What is the spec on the worm gear clamps ? I found a torque wrench on Amazon for $51 USD, 1/4 inch drive, 10 to 150 inch pounds.
Funny the bigger ones seem to be cheaper as low as about $35 USD.
I’ve been driving a Volvo long before anyone ever paid me to drive one.
That's probably because I've been driving one since 2015 and nobody has offered to pay me yet.
1998 v70, non turbo, FWD, base model, on the road from April 2nd, 2015 to July 26, 2023.

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