Project 2007 S60 2.5T

[MoVolvos]

Its not so bad, drain the coolant,

OIl soak the heat shield bolts before starting , work the bolts back and forth gently allowing ther penetrant to soak into the threads, thses bolts will snap off very easily if you just force the issue.

disconnect all the banjo bolts from the turbo ( from top and bottom).
The turbo is full of coolant and will come out as the banjos are loosened...all over you.

Before separating the turbo halves make witness marks on the 2 halves of the turbo so it goes back in proper alignment, not magic marker, use a dremel or something to make a scratch mark.

Remove band clamp and pull the front alum half of the turbo out the top.
oil drain pipe will come with the turbo, twist and turn as needed to pull it clear.

Remove the big circlip and extract the turbo cartridge in one piece, replace with new balanced cartridge from ebay.
No need to remove the cast iron section of the turbo.
You'll need the numbers from the turbo to make sure you get the correct part. $190 last time I looked.
Order new copper washers for banjo bolts, 2 per bolt.
Replace rubber O ring seal on the bottom of the oil drain tube.
Have some lower the turbo into place as you reach up and guide it down to the oil drain hole .

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Do you have a link to this work? I see a Youtube video but it's an R. Thanks.


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[MoVolvos]

That is bad news. Not horrible but more work than you hoped I'm sure.

White smoke can also be caused by brake fluid. Can the coolant in the turbo actually get into the turbo itself?

Neil.

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Never removed a turbo so first is always interesting. Just hoping the engine and transmission are okay. The reason for draining the coolant is factory recommends the procedure. Starts at 9:50 why it should be done. Coolant is not suppose to not get into the turbo.




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[jonesg]

Its not so bad, drain the coolant,

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Do you have a link to this work? I see a Youtube video but it's an R. Thanks.

that is a video of what not to do.

No need for an impact, they're just banjo bolts.
don't remove the cast iron exh half of the turbo from the exh manifold.
no need to remove the oil drain pipe. ( it comes out with the turbo no problem.)

Robert gives more expert direction than the typical clown show youtube video.

[MoVolvos]

Its not so bad, drain the coolant,

*
Do you have a link to this work? I see a Youtube video but it's an R. Thanks.

that is a video of what not to do.

No need for an impact, they're just banjo bolts.
don't remove the cast iron exh half of the turbo from the exh manifold.
no need to remove the oil drain pipe. ( it comes out with the turbo no problem.)

Robert gives more expert direction than the typical clown show youtube video.

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Thanks for the head up. I like the idea of not loosing the bolts on the exhaust. However, can there be damage inside that would affect whether a rebuild or another turbo. Any possibility of damaging the turbine vanes during installation?


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[jonesg]

everything comes out with the forward alum section, compressor, main shaft, and turbine, the only thing left behind is the wastegate.
Just don't drop it.
WHen you swap out the cartridge you're installing a new turbo, the only thing not changed is the outer shell.
The cartridge is one complete unit, once the C clip is removed everything comes out in one piece.
Throw it away and install the new complete and balanced cartridge.

[jkatz]

I just did this job too. The damaged vanes on my unit were contacting the aluminum intake scroll and the cast iron exhaust scroll, as far as I could tell only the vanes were damaged, both housings were fine. I bought my reman core on eBay ($100US), it came from LA with a balance certificate from a Turkish shop. It seems to work fine. I added Liquid Moly turbo lube from FCP directly into the housing before bolting on the oil feed line.
For me the hardest parts were the cleanup (oily grime on the outside of all parts), draining the intercooler, and removing/reinstalling that big circlip.
For the circlip I don’t own a tool large enough so I bought a set of largish bent needle-nose pliers and shaped the tips until it fit into the holes of the circlip deep enough to not slip out. To squeeze the pliers I had to put 12” pipes on each handle. I wore safety glasses!
Then I switched to an oil plug with a magnet and changed the oil after 15 miles. Lots of sparkles in the oil, and lots of ferric material on the magnet. Then I changed the oil again after 50 miles, fewer sparkles and almost no ferric material on the magnet.

[MoVolvos]

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Thanks jonesg and jkatz,

Confidence is building, perhaps will tackle this in 2 weeks. Started insulating the attic in parents oversize garage and the electrical is coming along. Researching 240V air compressors (not for the turbo work) so the electrician can put in the right breaker and outlet.

Now if I could only get these to NC! If not perhaps someone else can use them.

$50 Set of 4 Volvo OEM Snowflake Wheels 8634737
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/it ... _type=post

Thors.png (1.06 MiB) Viewed 468 times

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[jonesg]

Like this, these are the proper tool.





i bought these, cheapo but they worked, I needed a vice or second pair of hands to help.

https://www.amazon.com/Hiltex-02016-Ext ... 121&sr=1-2

[MoVolvos]

Like this, these are the proper tool.





i bought these, cheapo but they worked, I needed a vice or second pair of hands to help.

https://www.amazon.com/Hiltex-02016-Ext ... 121&sr=1-2

That helped thanks. I may opt for a cartridge so don't have to rebuild.

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[jonesg]

rebuild is easy but how do you balance to 140K rpm.