2005 Volvo S60 2.4L non-turbo will not stay running.

andybuzz2u · Post by **andybuzz2u** » 17 Feb 2022, 09:06

Ok. My mom has a 2005 S60 2.4L non-turbo. I have been doing the maintenance on the car since new. In 2015 I changed the timing belt and water pump out at 100K on the car. I went with a Gates timing kit as it was what appeared to be a good choice, which ended up being the worst choice out there. The bearings went out in the water pump, threw the timing belt, and smacked the valves. Sent it to Scroggins machine shop in Houston, TX to do the head work and replace the valves. That's the same shop that does all the cars, trucks, heavy equipment for dealers, new and used. Put new gaskets, etc, etc. Everything went together perfectly. The car once the fuel system primed, cranked up effortlessly. Ran for a minute and died tried to restart nothing, cycled the key on and off, then it started running for exactly one minute before shutting off, nothing out of the ordinary, like you, turned the key off. While I don't have a Vida or DiCE I have an Autel MaxiPRO MP808, the next best thing. It set three codes on the ECM, 941C, 310A, and 300A. The first code is a faulty signal for the brake lamp switch. Will that cause this? The second code is engine speed(RPM) sensor intermittent fault. The third is the Camshaft position sensor, faulty signal. I rechecked the timing marks and everything was spot on. The only thing I can think of is the VVT hub which is only on the intake cam. There is what I consider sketchy, at best, information from Volvo on how to set the VVT.

andybuzz2u · Post by **andybuzz2u** » 11 Mar 2022, 12:04

Anybody?

Post by **SuperHerman** » 11 Mar 2022, 19:22

Codes 2 and 3. Check your harness, connections and sensors. Code 3 will keep your engine from running.

If you touched any of the modules check them as well - properly seated.

Post by **abscate** » 12 Mar 2022, 07:10

Codes don’t mean much on a non running car. A misplaced VVT hub by a couple of notches won’t stop it from restarting.

Use some ether to confirm good spark and proper spark timing first. Then measure fuel pressure at rail.

VVT setup is well documented in VIDA, so check the info source

Post by **jonesg** » 12 Mar 2022, 17:43

On mine the cam position sensor was loose after a cam seal job.
It was loose enough to rattle and cause spurious signal.
It didn't stop the engine from running.

I know another guy who used that gates water pump and destroyed the engine. He said the pump was rusty.
Gates denied everything.

andybuzz2u · Post by **andybuzz2u** » 23 Mar 2022, 17:30

58.9 psi on the fuel rail with a gauge also 58.9 psi on the fuel pressure sender. All 5 injectors have less than 10,000 miles since being replaced with Bosch units. That rules out fuel. Monday I went back to ground zero with the car's timing, reset it 3 times just to make sure. I used the crank lock and the cam lock tool. Nothing. Same codes, same conditions, different day.

Post by **br0dy519** » 23 Mar 2022, 20:06

No sputtering or anything that sounds like a major vacuum leak before shutting down? This is weird. Please keep us posted. Curious to know vtl's thoughts on this one.

Please keep us posted. Your trials and tribulations will help someone else one day soon.

andybuzz2u · Post by **andybuzz2u** » 03 Sep 2022, 16:33

This is insane.

Post by **jonesg** » 03 Sep 2022, 17:01

Put it all back together, you can't do troubleshooting on it if its all apart.
When it quits test for spark.

andybuzz2u · Post by **andybuzz2u** » 23 Sep 2022, 16:20

The day I get this car going is the day Carmax owns it for however much they will give me for it.
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