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Post by **abscate** » 25 Oct 2022, 18:02

It’s a 2.5 hour book job for the fuel pump on a FWD car.

So part plus about $400 labor

Post by **volvolugnut** » 25 Oct 2022, 18:10

Try to check fuel pressure at the engine fuel inlet. I do not know the specified fuel pressure, but others will. The fuel pressure is checked with a pressure gauge teed into the fuel line. Too low and you will have problems starting and it may stall. You may get different results with everything warmed up or with low fuel level in the tank.
There are many threads here about changing fuel pumps in the tank.
volvolugnut

Post by **abscate** » 25 Oct 2022, 18:17

Red chair heaven on road trip, luggy…

Post by **volvolugnut** » 25 Oct 2022, 18:34

abscate wrote: ↑25 Oct 2022, 18:17 Red chair heaven on road trip, luggy…

Film at 11?
volvolugnut

Post by **MrAl** » 25 Oct 2022, 18:48

scot850 wrote: ↑25 Oct 2022, 16:35 The AWD's need the fuel tank dropped. The FWD cars have an access hatch behind the RHR seat in the floor. There is a metal cover plate that has to be removed to access it. In a wagon you have to remove the floor panels to get to it.

As the other guys say it is an easy fix. Try opening the fuel cap and have someone turn the key to position II while you have your ear close to it. Even better as was suggested, drain the fuel pressure down at the Schraeder valve on the fuel rail at the injectors. Put a cloth over it and press the valve tip in and drain down the pressure. Then have the key turned and listening at the fuel filler you should hear the pump priming. If it is, then the pump is working as is the relay when they are cold. Try jumping the relay and see if that helps the car to start and run if it stalls out on you again. Both the relay and pump can crap out on you when they get warmed up and may start working again once they cool down.

Last think, if it stalls out on you, try removing the MAF connector and see if it starts. If it does, then the MAF needs cleaned or has gone bad. The bad news is aftermarket MAF's from Bosch are NLA. Only other option is used or Volvo OE (very expensive).

Hopefully something simple.

Neil.

Hey thanks for the ideas Neil, and thanks to everyone else too for their ideas and suggestions.

One think i forgot to mention is that there was also another strange thing that happened.
For one, i could not get the key out of the ignition until i forced the shifter into Neutral, which i had to use that little button to the right of the shifter to do because the shifter was frozen again too.
I thought that was very very strange.
Then when it started later, no key removal problem and no shifter getting out of park problem.

If you asked me, i would think there was something acting to stop the starting and driving of the car, which sounds like the so called "immobilizer" to me. What do you think about the key and shifter problem and how it went away at the same time the engine started normally again?

Thanks much.

Post by **MrAl** » 25 Oct 2022, 18:49

abscate wrote: ↑25 Oct 2022, 18:02 It’s a 2.5 hour book job for the fuel pump on a FWD car.

So part plus about $400 labor

Oh ok thanks. Wonder how much a new fuel pump costs, i'll have to look around.

I guess the FWD is very different than the AWD as to the complexity, that's always nice.

Also as i said in another post, at the same time i could not get the key out of the ignition and the shifter was locked again could not get it out of park. When the car started again and ran fine again, the key problem went away and the shifter problem went away.
What do you think about that?

Thanks again.

yanga001 · Post by **yanga001** » 26 Oct 2022, 08:07

You have a lot of data to look at now and it should be fairly short order to test these theories.

In terms of the fuel pump, depressurize it like others have said and see if it repressurizes. We dont want to throw parts willy nilly at it.

In terms of vacuum, check all tubing, especially that of the tubing that furnishes the left side of the intake manifold. From personal experience i have had stalls when the tubing broke/snapped and smooth running once the tube was reconnected. It could be a small tear or something.

Check your ignition, when were your sparks done, how does the ignition coil look, does the cap and rotor look good?

I have not dealt with immobilizers before with these cars but it does not seem like a cutout, more like a stall out.

Important information in my eyes is that you had a car that periodically runs smooth and other times die. Is there a strong smell of gas out the exhaust, stronger than usual may point to maf or other issues. To me it does not sound like a fuel pump without seeing the vehicle as you were able to drive it around without issue for a period of time.

Check/change your fuel filter as well, it shouldnt solve this issue but its an easy easy part to change on our 98's.

Keep us posted of the solution

Post by **foggydogg** » 26 Oct 2022, 09:23

If you have never changed the fuel pump relay, that is one of the easier troubleshooting steps, and if it's original to the car, you should do that as a maintenance item anyway.
Avoid URO and ProParts, Volvo is best but pricey, Stribel is OEM. I just bought some that were boxed as Meyle but turned out to be Stribel.

Post by **MrAl** » 26 Oct 2022, 11:01

yanga001 wrote: ↑26 Oct 2022, 08:07 You have a lot of data to look at now and it should be fairly short order to test these theories.

In terms of the fuel pump, depressurize it like others have said and see if it repressurizes. We dont want to throw parts willy nilly at it.

In terms of vacuum, check all tubing, especially that of the tubing that furnishes the left side of the intake manifold. From personal experience i have had stalls when the tubing broke/snapped and smooth running once the tube was reconnected. It could be a small tear or something.

Check your ignition, when were your sparks done, how does the ignition coil look, does the cap and rotor look good?

I have not dealt with immobilizers before with these cars but it does not seem like a cutout, more like a stall out.

Important information in my eyes is that you had a car that periodically runs smooth and other times die. Is there a strong smell of gas out the exhaust, stronger than usual may point to maf or other issues. To me it does not sound like a fuel pump without seeing the vehicle as you were able to drive it around without issue for a period of time.

Check/change your fuel filter as well, it shouldnt solve this issue but its an easy easy part to change on our 98's.

Keep us posted of the solution

Well see it is intermittent so it's hard to figure out what is wrong.
If i change something and it stalls out again, another $100 tow.

If it is not immobilizer then why did the key not come out and why did the shifter not want to shift out of park?

I guess i could say it probably needs a tune up, but why would this problem be intermittent to the extent it is. Runs fine, really fine, then stall.

This car is really pissing me off now any buyers out there? ha ha.

Post by **MrAl** » 26 Oct 2022, 11:03

foggydogg wrote: ↑26 Oct 2022, 09:23 If you have never changed the fuel pump relay, that is one of the easier troubleshooting steps, and if it's original to the car, you should do that as a maintenance item anyway.
Avoid URO and ProParts, Volvo is best but pricey, Stribel is OEM. I just bought some that were boxed as Meyle but turned out to be Stribel.

Yeah ha ha im just kind of finding out about that now, but guess what. Cant find the fuel pump relay.
Here is an actual pic of the car where the relays and fuses are under the hood.
I see other relays, but nothing labeled as a fuel pump, only a fuse for the fuel pump.
Is it somewhere else on this car ?
Thanks.

Note the green outlined inset is a better picture of the labels the camera cord got in the way of that first pic.

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