Rear trailing arm bushing XC70 2004 questions

[arrrxivvv]

I'll be replacing my clearly cracked rear trailing arm bushing on my 2004 XC70,

I have some questions after reading Pete's excellent write up
viewtopic.php?p=532046&hilit=trailing+a ... 9c#p532046

For removing the trailing arm:


Do I simply jack up at the blue arrow, below the rear shock, remove the two bolts circled in the picture, and then the trailing arm comes off? Installation is the same, jack up and then the two bolts? Can I lower the jack after removing the trailing arm or should it stay compressed? Anything else in tension that might break?

For the various sizes of the press tool components

I guess the PVC pipes allows the bushing to go though, so their ID slightly larger than the subframe hole, and the galvanized plug follow the bushing into that hole.
The taller PVC pipes should be taller than the bushing, while the shorter one should fit into the slot in the subframe.
Is that about correct? Does Pete still have the measurement for the shorter PVC pipe? I suspect the height of the shorter pipe may need to be more specific.

I have no experience in making my own tools or anything related to plumbing (I didn't even know that a galvanized plug is) so please forgive me for being a bit slow here.

For taking the bushing out, how to prevent the sawzall from touching the subframe? When I did the front subframe bushing I found it hard to achieve, the blade would still touch the subframe a little bit. Just be slow and careful?

Thanks in advance for any advice. I can feel the rear of my car sloshing around on highway speed and hopefully this will be the remedy.

[cn90]

I did the Rear Suspension overhaul on my 2005 XC90 with 120K miles and posted the DIY below...

The PCV coupler will not do it. Info on tool rental (free) is in the link below...

viewtopic.php?t=92167

[cn90]

Make sure you use only reputable supplier such as Lemforder etc.

[arrrxivvv]

I did the Rear Suspension overhaul on my 2005 XC90 with 120K miles and posted the DIY below...

The PCV coupler will not do it. Info on tool rental (free) is in the link below...

viewtopic.php?t=92167

Thank you for the reply.

It looks like on an XC70 there wouldn't be enough room to fit the press tool,
since the other side of the bushing can only be accessed through a slot on the subframe:
download/file.php?id=51443
but the sleeves in the kit should still be useful.
I'll purchase the Lemforder one from FCP.

[vtl]

I found using a longitudinally positioned floor jack is easier than conventionally placed jack + strap. This way it pulls the control arm closer to the front of the car when you jack it up, which makes it possible to align holes.

[Rvolvos]

Doing the same bushing replacement on our 2006 XC70. I ended up modifying galvanized end caps. Al you need for tools is a 1/2” drill, drill and grinder with a flex disc. All parts can be purchased at Home Depot. See the pictures for the parts I purchased (FYI threaded rod I used was 6/17 thread, 1/2” was a backup plan) The small end cap needs the trough hole and the casting burr’s removed at the bottom.
The larger end cap burrs from the bottom, chamber on the bottom outside edge and the inner threads removed with the grinder to clear the bushing outer dimension. Make sure to apply grease to the threaded rod and washers.
The bushing went in smoothly with a bit of silicone spray and leaving the bushings in the freezer overnight. I did not want to risc it with plastic parts breaking half way and loosing the effect of putting the bushing in the freezer.
Also it is much easier to setup than with a heavy c-clamp and many loose parts. Did this on other bushing replacements.
If you can wait for a couple of weeks I can lend you the end caps. Let me know.

[arrrxivvv]

Doing the same bushing replacement on our 2006 XC70. I ended up modifying galvanized end caps. Al you need for tools is a 1/2” drill, drill and grinder with a flex disc. All parts can be purchased at Home Depot. See the pictures for the parts I purchased (FYI threaded rod I used was 6/17 thread, 1/2” was a backup plan) The small end cap needs the trough hole and the casting burr’s removed at the bottom.
The larger end cap burrs from the bottom, chamber on the bottom outside edge and the inner threads removed with the grinder to clear the bushing outer dimension. Make sure to apply grease to the threaded rod and washers.
The bushing went in smoothly with a bit of silicone spray and leaving the bushings in the freezer overnight. I did not want to risc it with plastic parts breaking half way and loosing the effect of putting the bushing in the freezer.
Also it is much easier to setup than with a heavy c-clamp and many loose parts. Did this on other bushing replacements.
If you can wait for a couple of weeks I can lend you the end caps. Let me know.

Thanks, that looks like it works really well, I'll probably look into it in a couple of weeks. Did you remove the subframe plate/bracket close to that trailing arm bushing?

[Rvolvos]

I removed the whole sub frame, because of the upper control arm bushings being worn. See viewtopic.php?t=102024 I would go by Pete’s post.

[arrrxivvv]

Wow, looks like a big job. Thanks.

[arrrxivvv]

I inspected the rear bushings again,

the trailing arm bushings:




another bushing, probably the upper control arm bushing mentioned in another post:


any way to replace the second one without removing the subframe?