1998 V70XC burning oil and crank no start

[jsrnsis]

That clacking does not sound like lifters but internet sounds can deceive

I should have noted the engine was surging around 1500-2000 rpm just to keep it running.

Some other info:
-it wasn't doing this clacking before it died in New Jersey
-I never heard the clacking when attempting to start it many times in the parking lot
-when attempting to start after replacing the fuel filter, the starter wasn't cranking but was making a repeating clicking, like the solenoid was firing, until I cleaned off the ground strap and body connection under the battery tray and then the car started while making the clacking it does not
-I can't isolate the noise with a mechanics stethoscope

[scot850]

Hopefully it is not the same problem I had with the 96 850, and a bad water pump bearing! I could not isolate that until I removed the timing belt cover and say the pump waving at me!

Neil.

[jsrnsis]

I haven't had time to figure out the clicking, but I think I found the source of the low fuel pressure.

viewtopic.php?t=57221

I have a bit of fuel leaking off the passenger side of the fuel tank, I can't see any spraying out from anywhere when I look through the filter access hatch, but I see it slowly pooling up in the depression around where the filler attaches to the tank. All the green painted lines in there look pretty rusty. Some of the items aren't even given part numbers on Volvo parts website, and the part number given in the linked thread is now NLA. It looks like this is my source of pressure leaking, and at the very least needs to be fixed to stop the fuel leak. I guess I need to lower the tank after all.

Is this something I could just bring to a hose shop and have them repair, I figure the fittings are going to be impossible to find

[scot850]

Unfortunately the fuel pipes were hard to find back when I did my rear sub-frame swap. Abscate managed to repair many of his lines, but maybe a good hydraulic shop might be able to make something that works.

Neil.

[abscate]

The lines are easily fabbed out of NiCopp. Consider redesigning ot so that the metal lines on top of the tank have no inaccessible rubber bridges to save dropping the tank again. You would have to move the fuel pressure regulator to do this but that’s easy.

Lot of detail in Neil’s R thread and my “Resurrection of the Kat” thread

Rubber to NiCopp connection requires a flare on the end of the pipe and double oetiker clamp to stay on

Take a really good look, post photos , of the six bolts that hold the rear axle carrier on ( seven, including the torque tube bolt amidships. If these guys concrete their way into the frame and subframe, it can literally crumble as you take it out.

I believe it is a NJ car so that should help

[jsrnsis]

The lines are easily fabbed out of NiCopp. Consider redesigning ot so that the metal lines on top of the tank have no inaccessible rubber bridges to save dropping the tank again. You would have to move the fuel pressure regulator to do this but that’s easy.

Lot of detail in Neil’s R thread and my “Resurrection of the Kat” thread

Rubber to NiCopp connection requires a flare on the end of the pipe and double oetiker clamp to stay on

Take a really good look, post photos , of the six bolts that hold the rear axle carrier on ( seven, including the torque tube bolt amidships. If these guys concrete their way into the frame and subframe, it can literally crumble as you take it out.

I believe it is a NJ car so that should help

Unfortunately the fuel pipes were hard to find back when I did my rear sub-frame swap. Abscate managed to repair many of his lines, but maybe a good hydraulic shop might be able to make something that works.

Neil.

Been dreading reading into the threads in detail knowing I'll have to be following along for real. I won't be home for the next two weeks, but that gives me time to come up with an action plan. The extensive AWD knowledge and documentation is really appreciated.

Yeah it's a NJ car, it seems to be mostly rust-free, but what puzzles me is that the bottom of the fuel filter access hatches were extremely rusty, and there was enough salt and water to rust these fuel lines out. I guess it's a spot that wouldn't be cleaned that effectively by a car wash underbody rinse.

As for where to put jack stands, I have been using the trailing arm brackets to place the jack stands on the AWD cars, but since I'll need to take those down, is there a better place to put the jack stands without bending any sheet metal?
I have traditional axle stands with the v shape and they don't seem suited to pinch welds OR flat spots.

[scot850]

Just forward of the rear circular jack points on the floor is where to jack the car just inside the pinch weld on the rocker panel.

I used a small piece of left over oak to spread the load of using a jack stand and reduce any point loads.

Neil.

[jsrnsis]

Just forward of the rear circular jack points on the floor is where to jack the car just inside the pinch weld on the rocker panel.

I used a small piece of left over oak to spread the load of using a jack stand and reduce any point loads.

Neil.

If I remember correctly that's a flat spot on the bottom of the car there? I'm always hesitant about placing jack stands, when jacking up parts cars I've seen some pretty bad flexing just placing stands wherever I can fit them.

I'll try to take good pictures to document the partial tank drop, I won't be able to get started for two weeks though.

[scot850]

Hopefully this will help for positioning:

Underside painting

2015-09-09 2000 V70R underside painting 002.JPG (230.53 KiB) Viewed 373 times

Underside painting (2)

2015-09-09 2000 V70R underside painting 004.JPG (222.24 KiB) Viewed 373 times

Hopefully the above pictures give a better idea. The 3 holes just this side of the axle stand are the rear trailing arm holes, and the hollow tube is where the bolt goes through the rear jacking point.

Neil.

[jsrnsis]

Hopefully this will help for positioning:


The 3 holes just this side of the axle stand are the rear trailing arm holes, and the hollow tube is where the bolt goes through the rear jacking point.

Neil.

Thank you, that helps a lot having everything out in the open like that, one of the last things I want to do is put a jack stand through the floorboard, before I can even get the car running.