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96 850R what to evaluate for potential bent subframe?

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
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camjohns
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96 850R what to evaluate for potential bent subframe?

Post by camjohns »

So if anyone can't point me to an already existing thread I couldn't find much.

So I was gifted an 96 850R from my parents. Cool so excited.

But

Pre gifting was the fact that my youngest brother ran it off an exit ramp through some grass and hit a bump in which he says he went air born. Not so great.

The result was this
- destroyed front driver side rim and tire
- driver side front tire now has positive camber
- rear passenger tire has negative camber.

As I evaluate the subframe, what do I look for to see if anything has been bent? The control arm brackets to subframe seem to be good, the strut on the driver side I think is bent which is causing the camber. But I'm hoping that the tire and the strut took most of the damage and didn't bother the subframe.

On the rear passenger side tire, am I correct in assuming that the trailing arm is bent? Or could that be a Delta link issue?

I didn't know if there is any good thread that talked about measurements to take to evaluate a potential bent subframe? Can I use a level to evaluate?

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Sveedy
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Post by Sveedy »

A level would help if you had a level slab to work off of. I'd suggest making some wheel cribs so you can elevate it equally on all four wheels. Then roll around under there with a measuring tape, straight edge etc, and see if you find any discrepancies side to side. Check the strut tower for tweaking or cracked welds.
It being an R, I'd think it might be worth taking to a frame shop for evaluation if you see anything suspect.
Try to learn life's bad lessons vicariously through others.


1996 850 Turbo GLH ( Goes Like Hell )
1999 V70 GLT

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foggydogg
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Post by foggydogg »

Front subframes are right stout, if it is bent at the lower control arm station it should be obvious. Since it doesn't have separate ball joints ( I presume), it wouldn't hurt to replace the control arm while you're changing the strut.
The rear is going to be a whole 'nuther sport. How far out is it ? Was the wheel destroyed, or is it just curb-rash level ? If you are very, very lucky it might just be a bent panhard rod ( 9157297 ), putting a twist in the trailing arm bushing.
If the idea is to fix the car as a driver first, my suggestion would be to get the front taken care of as best as can, then do some careful measuring.
If you take the excellent suggestion above and book time on a collision shop frame machine doing the front end work yourself first will not be time wasted.
69 1800s, @500k Death by Rust
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camjohns
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Post by camjohns »

Ok,


Ill try to figure out a way to get things level and work on measuring away.

I'm not opposed to going to a body shop, but I did want to do as much diagnosis as possible on it.

I'm not familiar with a panhard rod, is there a diagram that shows where that is located?

I have attached a few pics of the driver-side control arm and the back wheel passenger side.

I haven't gotten around to looking at the rear and figured I would get the front figured out first.

on a side note, the great thing is I have a 97 n/a that I have been considering using as a donor car should things be worse than expected.

I plan to pull suspension parts from it to help evaluate what I'm dealing with as I have new suspension components installed on it.
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Texasbrainstew
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Post by Texasbrainstew »

I just went through this myself. If that control arm mounting area to the subframe isn't bent, leave it alone. I nailed the curb so hard I bent the subframe and hand to replace it. In your case, even after replacing the front strut assembly, REPLACE THE KNUCKLE. Also! You're going to need to pull a new trailing arm for the one you most likely bent in the back! They're not hard and I just did the job myself in my driveway without removing the entire rear end suspension. Lmk if you need help or advice like I said I JUST went through this last month!

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foggydogg
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Post by foggydogg »

Plus one on replacing the entire package on the front, especially since you have a donor car. The strut with the hub will be a bit of an armful, but will cut down on the time involved - if you have some help.
I've never had to deal with rear suspension stuff aside from shocks, so the advice above would be a better guide.
Once you have the rear trailing arm swapped it should be obvious if anything else is bent.
850 Rs are getting scarce, I'm wrestling with one now that was on the Brink of Done.
Keep plugging away at it.
69 1800s, @500k Death by Rust
94 850 Turbo, T-boned, ambulance for me, crusher for it
97 855 T5, 855 R projects
98 V70R x2, Silver Junkyard rescue, Coral Red
98 V70GLT x2, parts cars
00 V70xc x2, both now dead
62 122s, gone to live in Richmond
56 445 Duett basket project
1950 Studebaker 2R10 flatbed, T9 crashbox

camjohns
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Post by camjohns »

Thanks for the thoughts and insights! I'll keep chipping away at it and see what else arises!

scot850
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Post by scot850 »

It may be the pictures, but the mounts for the lower control arm look twisted slightly counter clockwise?

Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
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camjohns
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Post by camjohns »

Ya i thought the same thing, When I get my parts car jacked up I am going to compare. I may not have taken the best pictures, as i was rushing

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BlackBart
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Post by BlackBart »

I'm not necessarily seeing that, BUT...1º off at the mount could make a big difference at the wheel.
ex-1984 245T wagon
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