DIY: 2004 V70 2.5T Axle and Seal (110K miles) Volvo 6843112; Corteco 19033885B R side: Volvo 9495018; Corteco 19034

[jonesg]

I added this to the Volvo Repair Database. Long overdue. It's very good.

First time I've been able to find the repair database, its not in the forums list.

[abscate]

Blessed are those who thread and post with part numbers……

It’s much easier to search than “ the ruund rubbry thing that sticks in the side of the tranny with the axle sticking out”

[abscate]

I added this to the Volvo Repair Database. Long overdue. It's very good.

First time I've been able to find the repair database, its not in the forums list.

Touch the Mvs icon at top, then menu bar at upper right…list of topics, forum , and VRD..

[cn90]

Questions for anyone who installed new GKN CV Boots...

I have done a few P2 S60, V70 GKN CV Boots as mentioned in this thread and have noticed the occasional small amount
(may be the equivalent of 1/2 tea spoon) of grease flung around after the job is done and the "new" axle is installed.
This usually happens within 1000 miles of the "new" axle. Then I cleaned the grease and nothing after that for the
next 10K-20K-30K!

And yes, I tightened the clamps such that I cannot rotate the clamps.

And this only happens to the brand-new GKN INNER CV Boot.
My theory is that: the INNER Boot mating surface is NOT round: there are 3 flat areas and 3 semi-circular areas,
so when the clamp is tightened, it can only apply that much pressure over these unusual surfaces.

Searching around, I see GKN Inner Boots leaking grease from other cars still under warranty, so I am not worried
about this, just an observation that for P2 cars, a tiny bit of grease escaping the inner part of INNER CV Joint is "OK".

PS: The P80 1993-1998 850, S70 has round contact surface and I did not see this problem in P80.

I put 2 randoms photos next to each other so you can see the difference in the mating surfaces...

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Volvo-CV-Joint.jpg (59.07 KiB) Viewed 2616 times

[cn90]

In retrospect,

I think I know the cause for grease leak, during installation, I added a bit more grease than the provided packages.
The INNER GKN CV Boot came with one package of 80 grams.
I added a bit more, maybe another 40 grams or something like that.
During extreme movements (up/down, R/L turns), the tripod is pushed inward and if there is more
grease than recommended, it can be pushed out.

Anyway, lesson learned.

[MoVolvos]

Update on 2007 S60 2.5T with 115K miles replacing axles, seal and ball joint. This is important addemdum:
by removing the bolts holding the struts, the job is 1000x easier!

- If you watch the youtube video by A1Auto.com for axle replacement, the lady mechanic used a pry bar to
pry the control arm downward and this is very dangerous. Even so, she had a tough time installing the ball joint.

- So, for ball joint: I loosen the ball joint bolts and nuts first, and since I am working on the axle boot, I also
loosened the 13-mm axle bolt, then remove the bolts holding the struts, this will make the job 1000x easier!
Search forum for tricks on strut bolts, but basically 18-mm wrench to counter-hold, then 21-mm socket
and breaker bar; search forum for proper torque. You may need heat to melt the factory Loctite (propane
torch for 30-60 sec, search forum the photo I posted).

- Once the strut is loose, the axle comes out nicely. During installation, protect the OUTER boot with cardboard
and tape.

- Installation note: for the Struts bolts, I use the LOWER bolt as a pivot, after gently tightening the strut nuts snugly, push the knuckle so the TOP goes inward. Now tighten the 21-mm nuts. This maneuver usually gives me the correct camber...

- For the driver's side (lef\t side) axle seal, the space is tight. To remove the seal, you may use a small screwdriver
and point it toward the seal's outer edge. Do NOT damage the shaft side. Or use the sheet-metal screw trick.

- During installation, the Corteco seal is a nice tight fit, no need for Permatex RTV here. Space is tight, and it
is hard to drive the seal in, so I used the PVC Plumbing Adapter + a piece of wood as shown. Go very very very
slow and tap it slowly and evenly bc you don't want to drive it in too far, you will have a leak if the seal is in too far.
Use a mirror to check for evenness. BEST: is to check the exact factory seal position prior to removal.
Basically, the factory seal sits about 0.5 mm inward of the chamfered edge of the transmission.

That is all, hope this helps you guys...

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Volvo-S60-Axle-Seal-01.jpg


Volvo-S60-Axle-Seal-02.jpg

.
Nice write up on the axles. I have that set of grease and use the red tacky in ball joints, tie rods and older CV joints that have had some grease escaped. Used a needle on the tip of a grease gun and injected into the older joints and the suspension becomes quieter and smoother at speed.

Some will escape over time but it's minimal. Amazon link for needle size comparison. I used the thin one.

https://www.amazon.com/Accessory-Includ ... 008&sr=8-4

.

[cn90]

Update,

This is the 2006 S60 with 106K miles. Routine maintenance as the INNER boot showed "old age", no cracks yet
but I could tell it may not last long bc it is now 18 years old.

- As others mentioned in forum, I don't d/c the ball joint any longer. Instead I undo the 2 strut bolts (to tighten for
re-installation, go to 65 Nm ---> add 90 degrees).
- Mark the strut w.r.t. the knuckle so you can put it back the same way without need for alignment.
- Or you can simply tighten the bolts snug, then push the upper end of the knuckle inward a bit (slight neg camber),
then tighten the bolts to spec.
- You should d/c brake caliper and hang it, d/c wheel sensor (8-mm socket), and d/c tie rod (18-mm).

- Note the tool set at 3rd notch (I also cut a small hose and used as cushion). Once the tool is tightend a bit,
tap the joint using cold chisel as shown.
- If you don't have the tool, then ask someone to help hold the axle while to tap the CV joint out. Place the end
on a piece of wood to avoid damage to the end.
- Whatever you do, cover the new Outer CV boot with cardboard etc., otherwise the bottom end of the struts
can scratch it.

- Before d/c the CV joint, mark with liquid paper so it aligns with the shaft.
- During re-installation, use a zip tie to squeeze the circlip, this may make the job easier.

- Use piece of wood to tap to avoid damage to the axle ends.
- The axle bolt (14-mm): to tighten go to 35 Nm ---> add 90 degrees. I also use a bit of Red Loctite here
(clean the threads from grease first, using a Q-tip etc).

- Also replaced the axle seals (Corteco)..."while there do it" thingy. You don't want to do this job
twice!
- All is good now.

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[cn90]

Another note before I forget re seal installation...

At factory, they have a tool to set the seal at the correct depth.

If you are good with wood working, measure how deep to go, then use a lathe machine to make the
seal installation tool out of wood:
- Outer ring is flushed with trans housing
- Inner ring is set at ___ mm deep.
The idea is to install the seal at the CORRECT depth.

If you look at the trans shaft side (once the seal is out): run your fingernail and you will feel the groove
created by millions of revolutions of the shaft against the seal. Options:
1. Install the new seal at the same depth as factory, so the new seal lip will go into the same groove.
2. If you have a leak before the seal job, an option is to install the seal about 1mm deeper, so the seal
lip now sits at a "fresh" area further inward of the shaft. Just a thought.


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Volvo-Seal-01.jpg (38.77 KiB) Viewed 452 times

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Volvo-Seal-02.jpg (125.82 KiB) Viewed 452 times

[erikv11]

Thoughts about the "If you have a leak before the seal job" comment above:

Unlike on P80 cars, on these P2 cars you will not see transmission fluid leak out of the axle shaft; the axle end is dry in the transmission. The axle seal on these cars is there to keep water (and other debris) out, not to keep ATF in.

So the only way to judge a leak is *during* the job: once the axle is out, look to see if there is rust accumulating on the splines at the transmission. If there is much of it then replace the seal to be sure. E.g. in the pic above there is no water getting in at all, the recess is shiny inside and completely rust-free.

The P2 axle seals are doing much less work than a P80 seal that is constantly bathed in ATF. They are also likely far more tolerant to wear and to small installation errors, though of course try to do it right.

EDIT: the red text is all BS, I did not fully understand how the end of the axle is seated in a cup.

[erikv11]

I replaced the axle seals as above last summer 2019...

At the time, I thought I had RMS leak, a job I dreaded...so I cleaned and wiped the RMS area dry and watch.

One year and 7K miles later, the RMS area is bone-dry.

It just occurred to me that a R axle seal leak can mimic a RMS leak.
I took a random photo from the web just to show everyone that the R axle seal sits above and aft of the RMS area...


Axle-Leak.jpg

EDIT: As above - axle seals on these cars will not leak ATF, the ATF is sealed inside the transmission.

So fortunately, a right side axle seal leak can *not* mimic a RMS leak.

EDIT: similarly, the red text (i.e. the post) is wrong.