Bottom Side Worklist XC70

[vtl]

I just drilled the front ones out with 2-1/2" hole saw (it happens to be the perfect size). Need a good one, and a mighty drill. No need to drop or lower the subframe other than one corner at a time.

(this drill didn't cut it)

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[BlackBart]

I was reading your post on the steering coupler troubles. I think you may have things separated too far. You shouldn't have to have the subframe dropped in the front or back more that an inch and a half or 2 inches to get the bushings changed or the rear motor mount to change them, same with the front, also it is not necessary to remove the steering coupler although some recommend it. I know you're probably frustrated but I think if it wasn't dropped so much and the engine lifted up so much you may have an easier time.
The rear subframe bushing picture where the bolt is being used to suck the bushing in would line up better and go in straight if you were to use a prybar to orient the subframe more in line with the unibody, then the bolt would be straighter and the bushing would go in straight. Just trying to give advice from the pictures you posted.
Progress report so far?

I'll report the process as I wrap it up, I took a couple of days off.

I think the original reason the rear subframe was dropped so far was to wrestle the sway bar out of there - it essentially comes out the back. Then when I buckled the RR subframe bush, I changed tactics to my cheap HF bearing press set of big washers. The top nut on it is a huge tall thing, plus the washer on the top of the subframe - I needed more space. That went really smoothly so I used it on all four.
The rear motor mount was kind of corrosion bonded to the aluminum block bracket, so I tapped the stud downwards from above the engine. I had released the steering rack from the subframe as it was so low, I didn't want to pull on anything. The new rear M Mount got jammed between the block mount above and the steering rack bottom cup, and as I had lifted the engine pretty high, they were off center by an inch and a half and wouldn't budge. That's when I discovered the steering shaft was hung up on the floor. With the weight hanging on it, the bolts wouldn't budge. One mistake after another!!

I'll press the two front bushes in tomorrow AM, replace the front motor mount, torque up the big bolts and seat the o-rings, bolt down the new right end motor mount, and mount up the new sway bar end links. Replace the top engine cross bar, torque up all remaining bolts. (reminder to self - I left a small socket and swivel on the subframe for tightening the rear MM through the sway bar gap).
Then off to alignment if I can get in.

[abscate]

Getting older I limit my garage stints to 4 hours. That’s enough wrenching and calisthenics for me to put my tools down and relax, and go at it another day.

When I did my clutch on my P2 I planned it over 2 weekends , 4 hours per day and I learned it was much nicer on me.

That was 10 years ago, and despite my painting in the attic, I have still aged

Added benefit. I tell my better half I have a 4.5 hour job in the garage and then end early.

[rollin_home]

Have you all seen what’s available in modern mechanics creepers . You need a smoothe surface of course.

$2800 simple, electric,power creeper lift

https://aerocreeper.com/products/power- ... reeper-18v


$20,000 , fancy creeper , lifter
https://humanhoist.com/human-hoist-chair/

[BlackBart]

So fancy! There is room for me, jacks, jackstands, and my arms under there.

I have discovered a genius idea to save your neck, however - a lowish 3 or 4” tall parts box, or even a shoe box from your last pair of Pumas. Rest your head on that while looking up or on your side cranking on a wrench. Your neck muscles will thank you.

[abscate]

I got so used to doing all my own work during Covid retirement that I have been botching the time money equation badly. Staring at my beautiful T5 that needs a timesert on my cylinder head, I called Robert and found out he is in the area in two weeks.

Elizabeth will roll again soon!

[BlackBart]

Miss Moose under her own power, leaving the Drydock.

She rolls nicely, no noises, goes straight, stops straight. What I finally finished was subframe bushings, all motor mounts, new RF axle, big IPD sway bar (I’ll do the back one after a mental break), new Lemforder end links, topped up the angle gear oil, and fussed with the steering shaft joints until they worked smoothly. Alignment next Tuesday. The ipd alum skid plate came with no hardware (!) so that didn’t go on.

My wife wants to take a 300 mi trip to visit a friend, so either before or after that I’ll swap the rear sway bar (a spring has to come out), oil change, Haldex oil change and filter, and front rotors / pads / soft hoses. I’d like the flush the brakes - I doubt it’s ever been done by PO’s.

[scot850]

Well done to both of you progressing the overdue work.

Abscate great to hear Elizabeth will be out on the road again, hopefully soon!

Blackbart, go sit down and have a few cold beers!

Neil.