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What non automotive projects and repairs are you doing?

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matthew1
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Re: What non automotive projects and repairs are you doing?

Post by matthew1 »

If you remember this post from 3 years ago, it's when I got my step lights working. They'd never been hooked up to actual good old 12V, or any volts. As far as I could tell, they'd never been used.

Sometime in the last 12 months they quit, and my tenant (I rent the house now) asked about them. Hm. Time to investigate.

Turns out they'd been seriously damaged by water, and probably a few dozen freeze/thaw cycles. I should have sealed those grilles in 2021.

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So I look and look online for the same product of LED lights, but can't find a thing like them. My speculation is that they're probably from 10 or so years ago, and have long been retired from production. Just look at how they're designed: an actual little chip board with no weatherproofing. I couldn't even get close to that style in form factor. The whole enchilada was just forgotten by industry. So I got these to replace them.

71YBA1GCNrL.jpg

I should have gotten the bases too, but if you're going to do something incorrectly the first time, and you're me, you're going to do it incorrectly a second because consistency is king here.

These replacements are 100x more likely to survive water/cycles... the enclosing material is a very durable rubbery type, and they're tough. Excepting the pins, I'd be shocked if you couldn't run these over with a car a time or two and they'd still work.

So I soldered them up and the step lights work again, and I sealed the grilles very well. Happy tenant.

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Question: the solder was not happy touching and staying on the wires. What am I doing wrong?

Addendum: I asked recently about a product I could use to diffuse these lights, it goes in these cover grilles. My question was in this thread in August. It turns out they have diffuser plexiglass or similar already, and I'd been mistaken. I couldn't just check them that day when I'd asked because, well, I didn't have my walkway with me. You see, it's not portable... and well it kinda goes with my house in Denver anyway. I'd completely misremembered that they have diffusers. I don't know where I got it that they don't.
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Post by abscate »

You have to remove oxidation from the pins by scraping with a sharp blade. Pretinning is best
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Post by matthew1 »

Thanks Steve. I also found this given your oxidation keyword: "To de-oxidize wires for soldering, use a chemical solution like a vinegar and salt mixture to clean the copper, followed by a neutralizing soak in a baking soda and water solution. Alternatively, you can use a muriatic acid solution, but be sure to neutralize it properly, and clean with isopropyl alcohol before soldering."
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1998 V70, no dash lights on

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2004 V70 R [gone]

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Post by abscate »

Copper you can scrape to shiny metal, then tin. I found my soldering technique got a lot better with a station with adjustable heat settings.
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Post by volvolugnut »

Better tools for better work.
Always a good selling point to spouses and bosses.

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Post by xHeart »

abscate wrote: 11 Oct 2025, 05:22 Copper you can scrape to shiny metal, then tin. I found my soldering technique got a lot better with a station with adjustable heat settings.
Magical fittings!

The incoming water pipes were upgraded to copper pipes a long time ago. In past year, with some practice of sweat-fittings, I've extended the water supply to yard - through the walls. Less hose is more joy in yard work.

All appliances in our home with connection to water is being upgraded with new; each has a shutoff fitted with hammer arrestor. The final-mile is replacing nylon tubings to water dispensers and ice makers with 1/4" copper via Oatey MODA Supply Box with Hammer Arrestor.

I've been replacing our old wood colonial-style windows around the house; upgrading RO to new construction vs replacement window. It is a four-year project, with two down. New windows are Golden Oak with aluminum-clad exterior with nailing flange - great fit!
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Post by Krons »

My BMW motorcycle is at 60k miles so valve check and new spark plug time. Pretty easy access on the boxer twin. Chopsticks make an easy top dead center visual guide.
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Post by BlackBart »

Krons wrote: 18 Oct 2025, 14:10 Pretty easy access on the boxer twin. Chopsticks make an easy top dead center visual guide.
That's a great idea! I was planning on a wooden pencil.
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Post by BlackBart »

matthew1 wrote: 09 Oct 2025, 17:43 So I soldered them up and the step lights work again, and I sealed the grilles very well. Happy tenant.
That stairway and rocks is really well done, I like it.
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Post by volvolugnut »

xHeart wrote: 15 Oct 2025, 07:20
abscate wrote: 11 Oct 2025, 05:22 Copper you can scrape to shiny metal, then tin. I found my soldering technique got a lot better with a station with adjustable heat settings.
Magical fittings!

The incoming water pipes were upgraded to copper pipes a long time ago. In past year, with some practice of sweat-fittings, I've extended the water supply to yard - through the walls. Less hose is more joy in yard work.

All appliances in our home with connection to water is being upgraded with new; each has a shutoff fitted with hammer arrestor. The final-mile is replacing nylon tubings to water dispensers and ice makers with 1/4" copper via Oatey MODA Supply Box with Hammer Arrestor.

I've been replacing our old wood colonial-style windows around the house; upgrading RO to new construction vs replacement window. It is a four-year project, with two down. New windows are Golden Oak with aluminum-clad exterior with nailing flange - great fit!
I would recommend adding shutoff valves to any faucet whenever piping changes are made. A great future convenience.
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.

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