the slow leak is a flood so I got into it this afternoon, it took over 2 hours just to uncouple the steering shaft.
not enough room to open the driver door when the car is between the lift posts, I rolled it out and did it outside then rolled it back in the garage.with no steering. Disconnected the battery and got the engine support bar set up.
Can't see the rear motor mount looking down, where is it ? Do I need to pull the intake pipe from the turbo?
I'm beat and I haven't even loosened the wheel bolts yet.
04 v70 steering line Topic is solved
- Blacklab467
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Don’t need to disconnect anything on the turbo, you don’t even need to disconnect the steering coupler but it’s not a bad idea to avoid damage.. the rear motor mount is visible from below and is attached with a 13 or 14 mm, also remove the passenger side mount and rear subframe bolts and the passenger side wheel. The idea is to increase the space between the engine and rear subframe to maneuver the pressure line out and into place. To do this, you’ll likely have to lower the subframe a couple inches while simultaneously lifting the engine with a small jack on the oilpan. Create lots of space to make the job easier, if it’s your first time, take pictures of the routing of the line before you take it off/ out. If you’re alone it will probably take you all day but it is doable. Good luck.
2003 XC 70 (sold)
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.
- jonesg
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thanks, that helps.Blacklab467 wrote: 10 Nov 2025, 18:00 Don’t need to disconnect anything on the turbo, you don’t even need to disconnect the steering coupler but it’s not a bad idea to avoid damage.. the rear motor mount is visible from below and is attached with a 13 or 14 mm, also remove the passenger side mount and rear subframe bolts and the passenger side wheel. The idea is to increase the space between the engine and rear subframe to maneuver the pressure line out and into place. To do this, you’ll likely have to lower the subframe a couple inches while simultaneously lifting the engine with a small jack on the oilpan. Create lots of space to make the job easier, if it’s your first time, take pictures of the routing of the line before you take it off/ out. If you’re alone it will probably take you all day but it is doable. Good luck.
I'll get out there and do as much as I can, too early yet... its only 5 am.
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vtl
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13 mm socket on a long extension, behind the sway bar. Only 1/4" extension fits as is, but you can push the sway bar with crowbar upwards and make space for 3/8" extension.
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dikidera
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That is what I did exactly.vtl wrote: 11 Nov 2025, 07:14 13 mm socket on a long extension, behind the sway bar. Only 1/4" extension fits as is, but you can push the sway bar with crowbar upwards and make space for 3/8" extension.
- jonesg
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from below?vtl wrote: 11 Nov 2025, 07:14 13 mm socket on a long extension, behind the sway bar. Only 1/4" extension fits as is, but you can push the sway bar with crowbar upwards and make space for 3/8" extension.
I thought the top fastener of the rear motor mount has to be removed first.
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vtl
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The rear engine pad sits on the rack. You remove the lower bolt.jonesg wrote: 11 Nov 2025, 10:28 from below?
I thought the top fastener of the rear motor mount has to be removed first.
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vtl
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Unbolt the intermediate shaft (between steering rack and steering column) if not done already.jonesg wrote: 11 Nov 2025, 13:16 Do I loosen the rack at any point or does the rack come down with the subframe.
Yes.jonesg wrote: 11 Nov 2025, 13:16 Do you feed the ext past the sway bar first then put the socket on,?
- jonesg
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yes, steering shaft is disconnected.vtl wrote: 11 Nov 2025, 13:28Unbolt the intermediate shaft (between steering rack and steering column) if not done already.jonesg wrote: 11 Nov 2025, 13:16 Do I loosen the rack at any point or does the rack come down with the subframe.Yes.jonesg wrote: 11 Nov 2025, 13:16 Do you feed the ext past the sway bar first then put the socket on,?
Alright, I just need to use a better light, headlights don't always shine where I need to see.
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