What's the preferred method for installing the Harmonic Balancer aka Crankshaft pulley on a 2003 Volvo xc70 w/ 2.5T?
There are 4x 10mm bolts on the face of the pulley, tightened to 25Nm then 60 degrees
There's also a ~ 30mm center nut that's supposed to be tightened to 180Nm
1. How do you hold the engine still to apply that much torque to the center nut (with a torque wrench of course)?
2. Is it better to torque the center nut or the 4x face bolts first?
How to install harmonic balancer/crank pulley?
- jonesg
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theres a lock tool for pulley removal, totally over priced.
the removal tool bolts up to the pulley face.
and a different lock tool for install.
the install tool requires removing the starter.
I have neither locking tools, opted to use impact wrench instead.
with blue loctite on the 32mm crank nut.
its been 2 or 3 yrs no problem.
the removal tool bolts up to the pulley face.
and a different lock tool for install.
the install tool requires removing the starter.
I have neither locking tools, opted to use impact wrench instead.
with blue loctite on the 32mm crank nut.
its been 2 or 3 yrs no problem.
- abscate
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I use a 18 inch breaker with a good strong shoulder pull once the timing belt is back on, car in gear. It’s a non critical torque.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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leapdragon
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Hi guys, I am about to tackle this as one of my wagons has clear runout on the pulley (just spotted yesterday doing an oil change).
I presume that the pulley can be removed without removing the timing belt, just by removing the four bolts that hold it to the timing gear? Hoping my midrange impact can handle the job.
However, I'm a little more worried about reinstall. So based on the above it sounds like it's not super critical to torque to spec but what I'm really worried about is damaging the timing belt. If I apply a lot of torque, is there not a risk of damaging the belt or the teeth?
On the other hand, if I just use an impact to tighten, what is the risk of undertorque?
I presume that the pulley can be removed without removing the timing belt, just by removing the four bolts that hold it to the timing gear? Hoping my midrange impact can handle the job.
However, I'm a little more worried about reinstall. So based on the above it sounds like it's not super critical to torque to spec but what I'm really worried about is damaging the timing belt. If I apply a lot of torque, is there not a risk of damaging the belt or the teeth?
On the other hand, if I just use an impact to tighten, what is the risk of undertorque?
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leapdragon
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Okay, have ordered the 1/2 700 ft lbs guy.
Still same concern... If I use the ugga dugga tool to get it off...and then back on... Will I kill the timing belt? Do you usually replace that as a matter of course when replacing the crank pulley for that reason?
Still same concern... If I use the ugga dugga tool to get it off...and then back on... Will I kill the timing belt? Do you usually replace that as a matter of course when replacing the crank pulley for that reason?
- volvolugnut
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The mass of the crank and pistons resist the motion of the impact wrench. The timing belt does not stop the crank from rotation. I would have more concern about over tightening the crank nut. Be careful not to keep hammering away after the nut is tight.
There is a tool you can make to resist crank turning, but I cannot transfer my phone photos at this time.
volvolugnut
There is a tool you can make to resist crank turning, but I cannot transfer my phone photos at this time.
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
John Deere 214 lawn tractor about 1977 model
And others.
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
John Deere 214 lawn tractor about 1977 model
And others.
- volvolugnut
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These photos show how I made a tool to hold the crank hub to torque with a manual torque wrench.
volvolugnut
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
John Deere 214 lawn tractor about 1977 model
And others.
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
John Deere 214 lawn tractor about 1977 model
And others.
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