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V70 stalls when warm. Reason to suspect Fuel Pulse Damper Topic is solved

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dalel
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Post by dalel »

Can I safely remove the rotor plate to look at the seal. From what I can find, when I remove the rotor there is one bolt holding the rotor plate on. That is all about timing so can I just mark it and then put a wrench on the rotor plate bolt and back it out? Will turning that bolt also turn the cam? I've been looking for hours but haven found those exact answers yet. ...Dale

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Post by Vova585 »

Agree with "monsoon " definition.
Agree that water vapor issue is likely a pcv system.
If I remember this system correctly, it is more "modern" system without distributor that can be adjusted(turn left and right and adjust ignition timming). I believe it is 3 bolts to remove cap, 3 bolts to remove distributor rotor, then there should be a shield(dont remember plastic or metal), by vw analogy it is either plastic shield that kept in place by 2-3 tabs vs a metal "washer" held in place by center 10mm bolt). After removing those you should see end of camshaft with seal. Yours will likely be disloged at the top. Remove the seal(likely small screw driver vs drill in a small self-tap metal screw method). Buy elring(usually good brand or victor reinz) seal and reinstall carefully.
Totally agree with abscate method to drill hole in the top of oil fill cap, possibly fit 1 way valve and put the hose down(aproach if you need the car asap), likely a full pcv job with assuring all passages to the oil pan are clean(small borescope, drop pan, compressed air/bubbling method). Recently valvoline restore and protect gains much respect around so might be helpful to use after pcv job to unclog gently what was not cleaned totally during pcv replacement. Oil change every 3k(my way, but not necessarily right way).
P.S. please dont take my prior comments as critic. I am very happy that your car is running good now without more significant parts cannon. I am all in support of developing a plan and acting upon one. Gather and analyze data and identify broken part/system which should be replaced with 100% guaranteed repair.
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Post by volvolugnut »

I thought OP was about distributor camshaft.
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Post by erikv11 »

It's called a "rear cam seal." https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... co-9443310

The front cam seals are the same on both intake and exhaust cams, the rear cam seals are the same (but different from the fronts) on both intake and exhaust cams.
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Post by abscate »

Clarification of above post. The distributor is not used to timethe engine like on a classic old car; that is all done with sensors and electronics and is non-adjustable.

You do have to have the plate and drive dog correct or else the motor won’t run, I spent a few weeks with a 1998 learning this
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dalel
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Post by dalel »

abscate wrote: 24 May 2026, 04:27 Clarification of above post. The distributor is not used to timethe engine like on a classic old car; that is all done with sensors and electronics and is non-adjustable.

You do have to have the plate and drive dog correct or else the motor won’t run, I spent a few weeks with a 1998 learning this
Okay. What is a drive dog and how do I make sure it is correct? Thanks... Dale

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Post by abscate »

My bad. I’ll try to find pictures to post up.


First drive dog

Relevant drive dog
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Post by Vova585 »

dalel wrote: 24 May 2026, 18:05
abscate wrote: 24 May 2026, 04:27 Clarification of above post. The distributor is not used to timethe engine like on a classic old car; that is all done with sensors and electronics and is non-adjustable.

You do have to have the plate and drive dog correct or else the motor won’t run, I spent a few weeks with a 1998 learning this
Okay. What is a drive dog and how do I make sure it is correct? Thanks... Dale
If you dont plan to turn the engine during seal replacement- just make a photo of before and note the direction of rotor. Reassemble in reverse order.

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dalel
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Post by dalel »

Vova585 wrote: 24 May 2026, 20:16 If you dont plan to turn the engine during seal replacement- just make a photo of before and note the direction of rotor. Reassemble in reverse order.
My plan was to mark it with chalk or white acrylic paint (comes off easy) and take too many pictures. Hope is that nothing moves when I back out the 10mm bolt on the rotor plate. Ha, I even ordered two seals just in case.

Mind you, the last Volvo I owned (before this V70) was a 1966 544 Sport. PCV was a valve that you got for about $10 and screwed in in a couple of minutes. ...Dale

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Post by Vova585 »

If you are worried about being "too strong in hands" you can always buy https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... t-cta-2883 or similar from IPD. It will lock both cams and will minimize the chance of "skipped tooth" plus will provide extra hold so you will have nothing to worry when wrenching that rear bolt.

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