04 v70 steering line Topic is solved

[abscate]

I’ve seen them both with and without the plain shank. I would not worry and would use either.

[vtl]

I’ve seen them both with and without the plain shank. I would not worry and would use either.

I also reuse these bolts if I put them on not so long ago. They stretch fine a few times. Apparently not in this case, since they are who knows how old, but a few years ago I was dropping the subframe for endless repairs almost every week, so why waste good bolts?

Also don't forget to grease the new bolts liberally with marine grease.

[jonesg]

ok, i'll try that.

what do you think about the subframe bolts they sent me.?

Look strange. They are torque-to-yield botls and should have a non-threaded area for stretch. But it wouldn't surprise me if Volvo replaced old style bolts with whatever cheapest they could scramble.

I think I'll check with them before using.

[jonesg]

FCP responded, the fully threaded bolts are good. install them the same way.

[jonesg]

I have the 4 nuts and a bolt removed from the rack to subframe, the cat bracket plate unbolted, impossible bolt on that one.
Motor mount under the crank pulley unbolted, the torque mount removed, tie rod ends off.
Steering shaft in the car unhooked.
Fought with the motor mount to rack bolt , it came loose using a 3/8 breaker bar. Once loose the impact zipped it out.

The rack still doesn't move much, is it time to drop the subframe ?
Do I have to remove the steering yoke from the rack or does it come down with the rack.

[vtl]

I have the 4 nuts and a bolt removed from the rack to subframe, the cat bracket plate unbolted, impossible bolt on that one.
Motor mount under the crank pulley unbolted, the torque mount removed, tie rod ends off.
Steering shaft in the car unhooked.
Fought with the motor mount to rack bolt , it came loose using a 3/8 breaker bar. Once loose the impact zipped it out.

The rack still doesn't move much, is it time to drop the subframe ?
Do I have to remove the steering yoke from the rack or does it come down with the rack.

Unbolt the intermediate shaft and separate it from the steering column. Engine pad, 4 nuts and intermediate shaft is all that holds the steering rack.

P.S.: intermediate shaft is likely seized to the steering rack, it is easier to fight it off with the rack out.

[abscate]

I’ve never got the UJ joint of a rack in the Northeast while on the car.

Those are NLA do don’t mess it up, junkyard only , and hard to recover

[jonesg]

I've hit a snag, ready to drop the subframe I loosened the 4 big bolts with breaker bar and cheater pipe, 3 are loose but one loosened a turn or 2 then felt like it was getting harder to turn, I sense it might be binding up.

I doused it with wd40 and left it overnight, I plan to tighten it up and then loosen again, maybe I can work it loose, if not then the plan is to use heat with mapp gas. Beyond that? maybe buy an induction heater from amazon or a torque multiplier.

I got it, worked it back and forth using the breaker bar instead of a big ratchet wrench, took a while but it loosened up.

[jonesg]

I’ve never got the UJ joint of a rack in the Northeast while on the car.

Those are NLA do don’t mess it up, junkyard only , and hard to recover

It did come out with the U joint attached, subframe was lowered quite a way.
The rack had no heat shield.!

The U joint is fubar to my eye, too sloppy.
I'm sure fcp still sells that lower U joint shaft. $110, the site says it will fit. I ordered it.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 50#fitment

[abscate]

Great news!

I forgot you were P2 and that joint is still available from mother. For p80 -1999, it’s no longer available