Cam Timing Issues After Replacement

[SomeYahoo]

Hey all, first post. This site has been an amazing resource for a new Volvo owner - thanks in advance for any help you can provide!

Found my daughter a 2002 S60 2.4T with only 85,500 miles and all was well for the first week ... then she decided to puke out all the oil. Much diagnosis and research later I came to the conclusion of a bad PCV system pushed out a seal (in this case intake front cam seal). Got everything replaced (full PCV system swap from FCP Euro, new cam/crank seals, and a timing kit) and went for a drive - ran good, no leaks, but a P0016 code

Took everything apart again assuming I messed up the timing and when I went to put in the cam lock tool, noticed that the exhaust cam was not parallel with the intake cam. Figured I did something wrong with the VVT on the exhaust cam. Researched how to time the engine online and in the Haynes manual, but the results were confusing because they differed so much. Tried multiple methods, but all resulted in the exhaust cam being off after rotating the engine by hand. Maybe this is normal? But why the code?

Bottom line, should the exhaust and intake cams line up after rotating the engine, or did I mess up? If I messed up, what's the right method?

More info for those that read this far (sorry if I forgot anything, doing this from memory and tried multiple methods):
- Everything out of the way, rotated to crank timing mark
- Timing belt off, crank location verified with the starter plug tool
- Cam lock tool in (after rotating the exhaust cam)
- Ensured VVT cam and mounting bolts were fully advanced by rotating clockwise
- Lined up timing marks on intake and exhaust cams with exhaust VVT fully clockwise
- Tightened VVT center bolt and cap
- Installed timing belt, set tensioner to middle (70 degrees F here)
- Held VVT torx fully tight and tightened pulley to VVT bolts (I don't seem to have any spring in my VVT hub - is that the issue?)
- Rotated engine clockwise, then CCW back to plug tool
- Noted cams were out and said swear words

Before rotating
https://photos.app.goo.gl/F9hBZmiwwovauvuJ9

After rotating
https://photos.app.goo.gl/2f3Q2A9ziCwETJrz5

(sorry, can't figure out how to make photos show up)

Any help is appreciated!

[cn90]

viewtopic.php?t=100439

[SomeYahoo]

Thanks cn90, I had read our excellent write up, but it doesn't address how to align the VVT before installing the belt and any procedures for tightening the 8mm head bolts on the VVT after install. Any tips for that? I assume that's where I'm messing up. There's lots of different information out there - center the slots on the bolts vs. full clockwise, align marks on ehaust VVT hub vs. one tooth before ... it's all got me confused!

[cn90]

It is all in the DIY.

- Crank lined up properly.

- TB off.

- Install locking tool. You may need to rotate the front VVT hub a bit so the Rear cam slots align wrt to the locking tool.
- To align the VVT hub (locking tool properly installed): loosen the center bolt making sure the VVT hub can freely rotate (The VVT hub mates into the cam shaft using interference fit principle).

- Rotate the VVT ccw, about 90 degrees or so.
- Now tighten the center bolt a bit, just enough to prevent free movement. You should be able to rotate the VVT hub cw and ccw (you will hear tik tik when you hit either ends of travel).

- Now slowly rotate the VVT hub cw (this is known as cam in "retarded position") until it hits the mark on TB cover. Tighten the center bolt a bit more. Rotate the VVT back and forth a bit. When you rotate the VVT completely cw, it must line up with the mark on TB cover.

Anyway, it is all in that DIY I linked above.

[SomeYahoo]

I must have missed it. Glad you mentioned having to rotate the VVT hub to get the locking tool on. That part made me question everything.

I think that as you have it explained is exactly what I did before it tripped the code. Guess I'll try again tonight.