Um, I don't know...I'm confused, Al.....LOL
I think that as long as you don't over-tighten the lug bolts, you won't have any trouble getting them off so there is no need for any lubricant or anti-seize. I've never had any issue getting mine off, ever.
Lug Wrench Causality
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MadeInJapan
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Using air wrenches to tighten lug nuts is a dangerous practice and should be stopped. After buying tires or getting them changed, I assume they were put on by air wrenches and are way too tight, so I get out the 4 way wrench and a pipe extension, and loosen them. If I had to do this out on the road with just a wrench I would never get them loose. The standard Volvo wrench was warped out of shape long ago. I have never found a lug nut loosen up after tightening them well with a 4 way.
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I use anti-seize on my lug bolts. I don't think there's much choice as around here the amount of salt they use on the roads makes them seize faster than you can keep up with.
I am familiar with the principal that lubricating threads reduces the torque requirement for a given holding power.
Nevertheless, I am sticking to the highly scientifically accurate torque setting of "good and tight". I know I'm not doing them as tight as the guys with the impact wrench at the local shop, but I'm doing them as tight as I can get them with my 4-way wrench. Probably around 80 ft-lbs.
I am familiar with the principal that lubricating threads reduces the torque requirement for a given holding power.
Nevertheless, I am sticking to the highly scientifically accurate torque setting of "good and tight". I know I'm not doing them as tight as the guys with the impact wrench at the local shop, but I'm doing them as tight as I can get them with my 4-way wrench. Probably around 80 ft-lbs.
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cn90
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Resurrecting an old thread.confused_al wrote:Its funny, I just had a lengthy debate with my fellow engineer friend on this topic.
My point is the torque we tighten lug bolts should be static state, not dynamic state. Therefore any thing that only reduces dynamic resistance (when you turning the bolt), such as grease or any other forms, will not change the torque at final resting state (after bolt stopped turning).
Do you guys think I won that debate?
Yes Al, you won the debate.
- Yes use antiseize, a small dab on the threads is sufficient,
- Get a breaker bar and 19-mm impact socket as spare. I nearly broke my factory wrench because as Lee said: the monkeys at Firestone over-torqued my lugs!
- And yes use Torque Wrench.
For those who fear the use of antiseize: in order the damage the hub and break the lugs, the torque has be very very excessive such as 250-300 lb-ft.
So a little bit below and above the spec is fine. As Lee says 81 lb-ft is the spec, but if you go to 75 or 85 lb-ft, it is NOT the end of the world. There is always some room for errors.
I have been using antiseize and use factory torque of 80-90 lb-ft in many many many cars: zero problems in 25 years of wrenching. Zip, nada and nada problemo!
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db130
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as suggested before earlier on this thread, i too would suggest purchasing a 1/2" breaker bar for additional leverage. one that is 18" in length could be had for as low as $11.99 from your local Autozone, and a 24" one from Gearwrench/SK tools could be had in the $30 range.
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VolvoTurbo850
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I have the ultimate solution for you Volvo wrenchheads like me 
I purchased this 3/4 with an adapter for my sockets. I use it for everything when I cant get my air tools or electrics to the car. The unit is heavyduty and about 15 inches long, but worth its weight for weekend mechanics.
You can also put a lead pipe on the end to extend your leverage. I have used it to remove axle axle nuts to lug nuts as well as some suspension work.
Unlike lots of these johnson bars or lever bars, it will not crack or break at the end.
I know it goes on sale for about 30 bucks in Canada so I am sure you can purchase it cheaper in the USA.
I swear by it for removing bolts. I use a torque gun to put on my lugs by the way!
www.princessauto.com/workshop/hand-tools/driving-tools/ratchets/2920099-3/4-dr-quick-release-ratchet
I purchased this 3/4 with an adapter for my sockets. I use it for everything when I cant get my air tools or electrics to the car. The unit is heavyduty and about 15 inches long, but worth its weight for weekend mechanics.
You can also put a lead pipe on the end to extend your leverage. I have used it to remove axle axle nuts to lug nuts as well as some suspension work.
Unlike lots of these johnson bars or lever bars, it will not crack or break at the end.
I know it goes on sale for about 30 bucks in Canada so I am sure you can purchase it cheaper in the USA.
I swear by it for removing bolts. I use a torque gun to put on my lugs by the way!
www.princessauto.com/workshop/hand-tools/driving-tools/ratchets/2920099-3/4-dr-quick-release-ratchet
Last edited by VolvoTurbo850 on 21 Nov 2010, 12:03, edited 2 times in total.
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JDS60R
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Some material you may be interested in
http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages/technica ... tion.shtml
http://books.google.com/books?id=5a8937 ... &q&f=false
http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages/technica ... tion.shtml
http://books.google.com/books?id=5a8937 ... &q&f=false
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IVIUSTANG
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I have never torqued mine to spec, I just use a 19mm socket and breaker bar and torque to feel. Have never had a problem with loose bolts, warped rotors or trouble loosening them. It can be done.
- Jesse
- Jesse
1998 S70 T5 SE 290,000 KM sideswiped total loss(Sweet ride!)
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I set up my torque wrench to 81 and take it with me to all the tire places I go. I ask the sales manager to be sure they use torque wrench on my lugs! one time I tipped a guy $10 when he went ahead and did it on his own. i too have broken tools trying to get lug nuts off!
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