A word regarding PCV overhaul...

turbotim2 · Post by **turbotim2** » 13 Dec 2008, 05:08

I got this done yesterday. Not a bad job but some things to watch for;
I broke the transmission dipstick off while removing the manifold, it was fun fishing the end out of the tube.
Also broke one of the tubes off the vacuum tree, no big deal, plugged the hole and used one of the spares.
The two screws that hold the fan housing in snapped right off in typical fashion.
Ordered the PCV kit from FCP for the late 95, 96-97 models. Found that mine has the early 95 setup where there is no vacuum line on the right side of the manifold. I ended up having to reuse the old line from the flame trap to the oil seperator as the new one was too short. I looked at my wife's car which is also a 96 and hers was the correct setup.
Anyway, here are some pics of what happens and why they need to be changed.

: DSCN2239.jpg (187.79 KiB) Viewed 1200 times

: DSCN2241.jpg (100.1 KiB) Viewed 1195 times

: DSCN2242.jpg (104.19 KiB) Viewed 1193 times

Also, not sure how or why Volvo found it necessary to take what should be simple $5, 5 minute job and turn it in to a $160, 4 hour procedure. PCV is a simple concept...

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 13 Dec 2008, 07:10

I agree...that and the A/C evaporator which Volvo decided to start with and build the car around. Sometimes over-engineering can be a headache. Actually, there's a section in the opinion forum about these type of Volvo gotcha's.

carp-guru · Post by **carp-guru** » 13 Dec 2008, 10:50

I have just done the same repair on my T5 today with the same results. I take it is inherant to this car. A nice job to do though and not as time consuming as I thought.

chuckcintron · Post by **chuckcintron** » 13 Dec 2008, 13:05

Tim, hopefully this was the ticket for you instead of the head gasket...you'll know in a few days when you check the oil...

On the repair difficulty, I agree the PCV system could have been better but I think the overall balance on these cars is acceptable when you have such an easy job doing a tune up, timing belt, serpentine belt, oil change - to name a few things that are easy.

Compared to Honda (ever deal with the EGR system on one of those?) or some American cars (um, drop the subframe down so you can get to the back plugs) - or my Nissan pickup, which I can't even SEE the oil filter (has to be done by 'feel'), these 850s are not too bad for the majority of things you need to do.

Maybe the A/C evaporator wipes all the positives away, though!

-Chuck

Post by **Zimbo** » 13 Dec 2008, 15:53

Chuckintron I hope you're right. I tackled my PCV last winter break and will be doing my timing/serp belt in a few weeks.

I plan on documenting it much the same way I did the PCV (http://www.lakesidedp.com/uploadpics/pcv/)
so hopefully I can provide a good write up.

-Rob

turbotim2 · Post by **turbotim2** » 14 Dec 2008, 05:12

I am hopeful this was the problem. Certainly an easier job then a head gasket.

They all have there woes, no doubt! The AC evap was gone in mine when i got it, 4 years ago and at 107,000 miles. I don't think I am going to bother with that! I live in Maine, don't really need AC anyway!

Now back to wife's 850 and that pesky 0172 code...

chuckcintron · Post by **chuckcintron** » 14 Dec 2008, 14:36

Um, Tim...you are going to be a pro at doing the PCV job. If your wife's car never had it done and is north of 80,000 miles then that's one of the leading causes of running rich, as well.

Check ALL the vacuum lines first, of course. Stuck injector can also cause this, but is very rare on these cars. Failed temp sensor also -- but you'd see that on the dashboard gauge. MAF, too...but the car will run poorly if it has failed.

Post up a new thread (maybe you do have one already), if you need any help walking through the P0172...

-Chuck

wolfspiritky · Post by **wolfspiritky** » 14 Dec 2008, 19:13

Has anyone ever tried to replace this system? Almost seems as if you could insert a 1 or 2 inch steel nipple into the block, attach a rubber line to it and use and inline PCV valve (like older model Ford's and GM's
that went in top of the valve cover.

I know it's a "reach" but even port and polish head work was at one time.

chuckcintron · Post by **chuckcintron** » 14 Dec 2008, 19:57

You wouldn't even need to do that. Just drill a hole into the valve cover and plug in a weighted (or passive) PCV valve, vented to the great outdoors (aka "Mopar")

The ports out of the block can still vent through the canister -- but even if you did eliminate the canister those engine block openings will get clogged up eventually.

So the question is: Is the topside vent enough?

My guess is "no". I think the real fix would be to cast your own engine block with a (much) wider vent path from the bottom of the motor up to the top. I believe that's the traditional design.

-Chuck

wolfspiritky · Post by **wolfspiritky** » 14 Dec 2008, 20:16

It would seem like eliminating the canister would eliminate a lot of work. The canister seems really useless to me. Does it even contain any type of filter material?

Using synthetic oil helps. you don't have near the build up of any kind with it.

That's just one of the many issues we run into buy used!!