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Bypassing heater core

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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mistercrunch
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Location: South Africa

Bypassing heater core

Post by mistercrunch »

My 850's heater core leaks into the passenger footwell.

I need to get it replaced, but I also need to drive the car. Can I bypass the pipes leading into the core? Someone I spoke to mentioned something about messing up the ECU?

I would probably do the bypass in the engine bay. Does anyone know the internal diameter of these radiator hoses, from the engine going to the firewall? I'll then just join the two pipes on the engine block.

Thanks!!

MadeInJapan
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Post by MadeInJapan »

I believe there's a special connection at the block and you're going to be stumped trying to figure out how to join the two outlets. It would be much easier to join the two hoses that connect through the firewall. The diagram below shows you how they pull out of the firewall:
heater core hose ends.jpg
heater core hose ends.jpg (61 KiB) Viewed 668 times
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
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Ozark Lee
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Post by Ozark Lee »

They are just a barb nipple fitting at the block but I am unsure of the hose size. 3/4" comes to mind but I am unsure. If you drain some coolant and the remove one and carry it into the the auto parts store they can match it up.

...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe

mistercrunch
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Joined: 26 August 2007
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Location: South Africa

Post by mistercrunch »

Thanks guys...

Not sure what you mean by a "barb nipple". The clamps on the block are the type where, as you screw in the bolt, the whole things consticts around the pipe. Is this a barb nipple?

Got some 19mm hosing (+- 3/4"). Works like a charm!

Now to get the heater core fixed. Luckily it's summer for a few months still :)

MadeInJapan
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Post by MadeInJapan »

Glad you figured it out.
mistercrunch wrote:Not sure what you mean by a "barb nipple". The clamps on the block are the type where, as you screw in the bolt, the whole things consticts around the pipe. Is this a barb nipple?
Sounds like a flange screw- but I'm not sure- I've never looked at that connection myself.

mistercrunch, could you take some pictures of what/how you did this. This would be very valuable to our community and to those who need an emergency fix while they wait for a new heater core.
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo

Ozark Lee
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Post by Ozark Lee »

This is what I meant by a Barb Nipple.

http://www.hindustanbrass.com/hosebarb_fittings.htm

They just use a hose clamp to secure them.

...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe

rbtyndall
Posts: 11
Joined: 2 January 2009
Year and Model:
Location:

Post by rbtyndall »

MadeInJapan wrote:I believe there's a special connection at the block and you're going to be stumped trying to figure out how to join the two outlets. It would be much easier to join the two hoses that connect through the firewall. The diagram below shows you how they pull out of the firewall:
heater core hose ends.jpg
Very cheap fix for the above illustration. Should be a couple of inches of appropriate hose (3/4" from above notes) and a couple of hose clamps. The water pressure is on the low end, so if this is a temporary deal, just get the ends of the hose connected together. The water goes to the heater core in a bypass fashion, so if the hose kinks, it shouldn't be a huge deal.

I just replaced my heater core, and it only took about an hour. You can get a little extra work done in the meantime though, if you can handle driving around without lower dash panels and kick pans. Maybe get your old heater core out in prep for the new one.

Hint. When taking out the old heater core, blow compressed air through the firewall to get the coolant out of the heater core.

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