B+ terminal repair - main fuse box

[DGM]

Thank you for the nice DIY!

This gives me incentive to inspect the Main Fuse Box wiring once in a while.

My comment: if you run an additional cable (keeping the original multi-wire cable as shown in Step #6), then I do not think you need a 6G cable, maybe 10G is good enough, just a guess.

The other option is to get rid of all those multi-wire cables (in Step #6), and replace with the single 6G cable as you mentioned.

I agree. The 6G was used because i had it in hand but as you mentionned there is other ways to do it.

http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

This link may help to choose the right size.

[jimmy57]

If you catch this problem before it has progressed to burnt ends and really high V drops you can solder the existing wiring. The end at electrical box will require a 300 watt soldering iron. The end at battery can be done if caution and shielding is used with a propane torch.
I solder the ends of battery cables where the heavy wire is crimped into them also. The cable can't be corroded and already damaged or the solder will not adhere. Remove battery when doing any soldering with torch as it not only gives more room to work, it removes chance of battery gases igniting!

[peacock]

Chalked this up on the summer todo list for my car.

[darag2358]

Good writeup. Can someone tell me where the relay connections ground to? Is it the ground terminal on the strut tower next to the fuse box or somewhere else?

[BEJinFbk]

You can find ALL the ground points in the car with the diagrams here on the site:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/volvo-wiring-diagrams/

[Pauloil]

after reading up on this repair and finally DOING it, I was happy to learn you do not have to take the rubber gromet out of the bottom of the fuse box. Thinking about how gromet was most likely placed into fuse box with plastic fuse holders well above it, I proceeded to cut the bad end of cable off and pull out old cable. Then I pushed the remaining wires up and the fuse box down to create enough room for the straight new end of replacement cable(covered with 33+ electric tape) through the gromet.

new cable end on right

anyone without the soldering skill of the original poster(like me), I wish you could have felt how stiff and brittle the wires near the bad end were on mine, fused together near the end. just as JRL said above, "Its better to just buy the complete cable....."

wires stiff and fused together near end

[iguanoid]

Hope its okay to dredge up an old post but I have a question on this topic...

Why does the B+ cable consist of 4 smaller gauge cables instead of one larger gauge cable? Could you replace the cable with one thicker gauge cable?

[Pauloil]

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=35208

[chuck_eglin]

Thanks for the excellent post DGM! I'm working on my wife's 2001 C70 LPT Convertible. My battery has been losing charge so I had it checked, found a bad cell and was replaced under warranty. The alternator test showed there was something wrong with the regulator. I've got a replacement ready to install but as a last check I wanted to be sure I didn't have a wiring issue so I searched this forum. I saw green corrosion at the connector crimp and burnt/brittle insulation on the wires below it in the relay/fuse box and I am in the process of repairing it. One thing I wanted to point out is I don't know if I have a setting wrong on my account, but I can't see any of the pictures on page 1 of this post but I can see the two pictures on page 2. Thanks!

[SV701998]

Hej DGM,
i know your post is already some time ago but it seems like the pictures got missing.
As I have the same problem at the moment, I was wondering if you could be so kind to put the pictures back into your post?

Thanks so much for your help