Login Register

Wire under the Air Cleaner

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

Post Reply
User avatar
DARK_BLU
Posts: 48
Joined: 17 May 2014
Year and Model: 850 GLT 1996, NA
Location: USA

Re: Wire under the Air Cleaner

Post by DARK_BLU »

abscate wrote:That looks like a heavy current wire powering one of the fuse boxes?

Yikes
Could be. 21 year old car. Connectors had to be "Gorilla Taped" to reconnect them and hold the connectors together. Zip Ties to help with that. I'd really just like to unhook the battery, cut the connectors off, and direct connect the wire.s. Since the wires were connected via connectors that are falling apart, I figure that I could just solder them together, tape that up, and not have to worry about the wires disconnecting or separating, causing me to have to go under the hood, pull them together, and get the car to start. What do you think? Cut off the connectors, connect the wires, solder them, tape them up, and I'm good?
96 Volvo 850 GLT/NA-Green @312,298 miles
Stage 0 Tuneup w/Cold air side/open flap air box mod
Pro Parts Sweden Exhaust manny/DEC Cat/Starla Exhaust/SS Tip
Hard Rock guitarist with Solo project, driving a Swedish Death Metal Machine. http://darkblu.com

User avatar
DARK_BLU
Posts: 48
Joined: 17 May 2014
Year and Model: 850 GLT 1996, NA
Location: USA

Post by DARK_BLU »

bmdubya1198 wrote:Looks to me like the wire for the crank sensor. Is the connector white?
That's DEFINITELY something that needs to be replaced. I wouldn't mess with splicing wires for a vital sensor like that, because you could mess with signals and cause more no-start issues.
Hmmmm... I don't recall if the connectors are white, but both connectors were connected to a metallic center part that connected both ends of the wire, together. That fell to pieces, so I connected the connectors and Gorilla Taped that up to keep the connectors from falling to pieces. It's been connected that way for a lil over a year. Every now and then, when the car won't start, I go under there, pull the two ends together, and the car starts. I'd just like to connect the wires without the failing connectors. I suppose in theory, I could get the connectors, cut the ends off, solder in the connectors, connect them, and be done. That what you recommend? Replacing the connectors?
Last edited by DARK_BLU on 13 Mar 2017, 21:07, edited 1 time in total.
96 Volvo 850 GLT/NA-Green @312,298 miles
Stage 0 Tuneup w/Cold air side/open flap air box mod
Pro Parts Sweden Exhaust manny/DEC Cat/Starla Exhaust/SS Tip
Hard Rock guitarist with Solo project, driving a Swedish Death Metal Machine. http://darkblu.com

User avatar
DARK_BLU
Posts: 48
Joined: 17 May 2014
Year and Model: 850 GLT 1996, NA
Location: USA

Post by DARK_BLU »

96 Volvo 850 GLT/NA-Green @312,298 miles
Stage 0 Tuneup w/Cold air side/open flap air box mod
Pro Parts Sweden Exhaust manny/DEC Cat/Starla Exhaust/SS Tip
Hard Rock guitarist with Solo project, driving a Swedish Death Metal Machine. http://darkblu.com

User avatar
erikv11
Posts: 11800
Joined: 25 July 2009
Year and Model: 850, V70, S60R, XC70
Location: Iowa
Has thanked: 292 times
Been thanked: 765 times

Post by erikv11 »

I think you are taking about the cam sensor, the part with the big red arrow in https://data.motor-talk.de/data/galleri ... 865679.jpg.

I would indeed splice a new connector into the wiring harness. Maybe even a junkyard one but if you can get a new one, great. Your parts geek link doesn't work.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k

MadeInJapan
MVS Moderator
Posts: 13434
Joined: 31 March 2005
Year and Model: '98 S70 T5 '07S40T5
Location: Knoxville, TN American but born in Japan
Has thanked: 17 times
Been thanked: 35 times

Post by MadeInJapan »

Either the crank sensor or cam sensor heavy wire has to be away from ignition wires when they are to close, the signal gets corrupted. That's why they are shielded. I've seen many no-start or no-run issues due to that wire about touching one of the ignition wires. Just a thought, but I agree- replace the connector, don't just splice and tape. Still, even with the pictures available, I'm at a loss to understand the exact wire. Any better pictures of the bad connector and wires protruding from each side?
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo

MadeInJapan
MVS Moderator
Posts: 13434
Joined: 31 March 2005
Year and Model: '98 S70 T5 '07S40T5
Location: Knoxville, TN American but born in Japan
Has thanked: 17 times
Been thanked: 35 times

Post by MadeInJapan »

On second look of the original picture you posted, I'm thinking it is the cam sensor. I have had to "repair" the connectors (epoxy was my friend!) on these before- they get yellow (and even turn orange) and brittle. Some were made with a black connector rather than white which seemed to hold up better. This is unless the female connector- the one in the car is the one disintegrating- which if it is, this is very rare. When the sensor gets disconnected, there is typically no code set either- the car just doesn't run. The connector plug on the end of the somewhat flat wire is integrated with the wires so there is no just switching the connector out- I do suppose you could cut a decent connector off of another cam sensor but if you're going to do that, why not just switch the whole thing out- it would probably take less time. I do not recommend by-passing the connector completely. This is because some day you will probably have to switch the cam sensor and then you'll have to go through unraveling everything and cutting an end off and splicing again. Do be aware that some cam sensors differ from model to model, so make sure you get the right one. I'm posting a picture of what I think you are describing.
Image
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo

crlande
Posts: 368
Joined: 27 July 2013
Year and Model: 240DL;850;S70
Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
Has thanked: 1 time
Been thanked: 36 times

Post by crlande »

I agree replace CPS as a whole.

User avatar
erikv11
Posts: 11800
Joined: 25 July 2009
Year and Model: 850, V70, S60R, XC70
Location: Iowa
Has thanked: 292 times
Been thanked: 765 times

Post by erikv11 »

Oh, if its the sensor end of the wire then there should be no question - just follow it to the sensor, is it cam or crank. If the sensor end of the wire is bad I agree with crlande: replace the sensor, don't mess with the wire. If budget is an issue then grab one from the junkyard, 99.9% of them are just fine.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k

User avatar
DARK_BLU
Posts: 48
Joined: 17 May 2014
Year and Model: 850 GLT 1996, NA
Location: USA

Post by DARK_BLU »

Splicing in connectors is all I need, and I can do that myself for cheap. Having the entire sensor replaced still involves replacing the connector on the other side of the connection, and is not going to be affordable, so splicing on connectors, is the way I will go. Thanks to all, for input. Much appreciated.
96 Volvo 850 GLT/NA-Green @312,298 miles
Stage 0 Tuneup w/Cold air side/open flap air box mod
Pro Parts Sweden Exhaust manny/DEC Cat/Starla Exhaust/SS Tip
Hard Rock guitarist with Solo project, driving a Swedish Death Metal Machine. http://darkblu.com

User avatar
abscate  
MVS Moderator
Posts: 35270
Joined: 17 February 2013
Year and Model: 99: V70s S70s,05 V70
Location: Port Jefferson Long Island NY
Has thanked: 1497 times
Been thanked: 3810 times

Post by abscate »

Try the splice but be ready to replace it. It's a shielded connector in the presence of lots of high voltage electrical noise so it might not work well with untwisted pair wiring
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread

Post Reply
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post