Engine Shaking & low power - 2000 s70 FWD Base Model

[scot850]

The 2 codes are saying:

ECM-4038 - Brake vacuum. It sound like you may have a vacuum pipe possibly leaking to the booster. Or the plastic one way valve in the booster may have failed.

ECM-914F is saying the ETM is bad. I would suggest removing it and giving it a good clean with TB cleaner on a rag and cotton buds or a screwdriver wrapped in a cotton cloth with TB cleaner on it. Re-fit and reset and see if it returns.

Oils look to me as normal in the pictures.

Cables look like parking brake cables. See if they follow back and into the rear hub behind the rear brake dust shield. If that is what they are they only have one mount which is flimsy at best using a plastic loop like a house wire cable tie and a pop-rivet to hold it back to the trailing arms. The aluminum rivet rots and falls off along with the cable tie.

Hard to tell about the coolant. Sorry, picture is not clear.

I'd need to check the socket size for the plugs. You can usually buy them as a set from the likes of Canadian Tire or Princess Auto.

Neil.

[rtjl]

Hello Neil,

I have added the second section as information from the other thread. I try to respond directly to you in the first part.

it's entirely possible that there is a vacuum leak. This is something I keep hearing. I will look into that as next.
I will have to check the schematics to see where the one way valve is.

ETM cleaning will begin today with the one currently uninstalled (one that was removed before I tried my alternate)

yes, likely cable brakes. I can see the bolt above them that I believe might be responsible for holding them. The parking brake also is damaged and needs replacement I believe, so may be related somewhat.

I added a 5/8 (close to 16mm) spark plug socket to the cart. Hopefully its good enough.

--------------

Yes, I have a B5244S engine. for some reason I cannot add my VIN to that website you mentioned but I manually entered the model.

-The error codes are current, but It also additional ones before i did a full reset and reading. They no longer show. Supporting photo was taken when the car was not connected to the laptop.
-Perhaps the car needs to run for longer for them to be triggered. (image below)
-I'll deal with the parking brake cable later, however I do believe that the actual parking brake and physical inside cable may need to be replaced (according to mechanic 1)
-And mechanic 2 mentioned that the timings' were off (followed by informing me of low pressure in one cylinder, and none in another.)
-I don't know if he performed a "dry or wet" test , as I don't understand what those mean. However, he used a tool similar to the one I included in my tool list.

-I have added a 3/8" Drive 5/8" Spark Plug Socket to the cart.

I am not 100% sure if i have a cable or electronic operated throttle body. I believe it is electronic, but I cannot confirm yet.

I have attached a few images.

- Error codes -
-The brakes are not responsive, no. I believe that you are correct.

" If you disconnect the hose from the servo, there will be big leak.
Does doing that affect the running?
If you disconnect the hose from the intake manifold end and plug the manifold, does that improve the running? "

-I will try this after I clean the current throttle body today.

-I will come back and read it again as well as find an online guide, but if you could point out where I am disconnecting I can try that before seeking an online guide . (I am still becoming familiar with the terminology and want to avoid breaking anything)

-I actually have two throttle body from two different brands. I will clean the one that was initially removed, and attempt and clean that one first, then enter it into the car. If no change is noticed, then I will try the second one. I hope one spray can is enough per throttle body.

-----------
I Want to order the tools tonight.
If possible, please confirm I haven't missed or gotten anything I dont need so I can dig in.

https://www.amazon.ca/hz/wishlist/ls...?ref_=wl_share

Thank you so much for your feedback and time.

take care,
Jonathan

[scot850]

You have an electronic throttle module (ETM). Volvo started fitting there in 1999 Model year.

5/8" is the right one for the spark plug socket.

Some codes do need the car to run for longer so they can go through a duty cycle before triggering. Emissions ones for example.

It seems to me you have covered most of the bases for now. I have not tried to disconnect the vacuum pipe from the engine end of the brake booster pipe to know if it runs better or worse. Can't do any harm to try is it makes a difference. It is the only code there that should be linked to the issues you on braking/running. Blocking it most likely will not help identify anything as the brake booster is still not registering vacuum. Replacing the hose from the manifold to the booster is the only real way to sort the issue. You could remove and plug the hose at the booster end of the hose and then try blowing down the hose to see if you get any pressure or if it leaks. Easier with access to an air hose.

Neil.

[rtjl]

finally have got some time alone with the tools, this is my process / questions so far:
Currently done (+)
planned procedure (`)
questions/comments(-)
assumption(*)

+ cleaned spare Throttle body
+ cleaned spare electronic sensor - (will likely swap these after cylinder inspection)
+ removed bolts with T30 6sided bit
+ removed engine cover & belt cover
+ disconnected ground (gray cable)
+ disconnected tops of ignition coils
` I'd like to hit the top of the engine bay area with an air pump to clean it up before I open anything. This should be fine?

- the electrical connector closest to the belt system seems to not come out easily. I'm afraid to over force it, but i dont see any release keys. There are two red bits on each side that seem to retract if pushed, but doesn't seem to make any difference. Is there a specific tool I should use, or just slowly pull it off with a flat head and more force?

- at this point I stopped to let the engine cool off as I saw comments about potentially damaging the ingition coils when the engine is hot, however this robert DIY video below mentions measuring pressure when hot. I assume this will still be possible to warm up the engine safely once all ignition coils / spark plugs are removed.


- I noticed a label on my engine that doesnt seem to match what i'm expecting. Should I be concerned?
(B3340 instead of B5244S?)

--Process next--
`remove last belt area electrical connector
`remove and inspect spark plugs
`assess cylinder condition

-- comments --
*The car in the video is similar but not identical to mine*

- I have heard that incorrect removing or replacing of the timing belt can cause damage or bending to the cylinders. Will I be able to see that damage at this point?

*The symptoms he is describing at this time point below seem similar to what I may be experiencing.*
(

-I will avoid touching belt for now and do everything else mentioned first.
-He then recommends pulling out the fuel pump relay *(underneath fuse box?)* to avoid dumping fuel in the engine and deactivating the ignition system by disconnecting the power to the coil, as well as using a remote start to avoid draining battery when performming compression test.


*He makes a comment at 10:46 about a connector that is removed. I'm not entirely certain where this is. Picture included name 1046 connector.
*I am not sure if I will need to plug back in the ground wire to battery at this point*

-- Process Continued ---
`warm compression test (dry)
-He performs 8 rotations per cylinder with a wide open throttle
-

`warm compression test (wet)
-
-Currently dont have any oil. Recommendations for correct oil are appreciated.

*At this stage, I should have a bit more info, and will then return with it to discuss if I should continue to removing manifold, or investigate brake vacuum and plastic valve seals.*

I now have access to all the tools including jacks and stands, and am able to spend some time on it over these days.

Thanks for your guidance,
Jonathan

[scot850]

There should be a white label on the the timing belt cover with your engine details. There is a stamp on the engine but can't recall where. That one you show is not relevant.

Blowing the top of the engine off with and air-line should be ok, but try not to direct it at the wiring as it gets fragile at higher mileages.

The 1 x 10mm headed bolt holding the coils to the top of the engine head are also their grounding point. Those bolts do have a torque.

When you pull the coils out, peel back the rubber boots and look for cracks. Typically high mileage ones will crack on the opposite side to the connector and on both sides. They will possibly still run ok but will eventually short out.

If you have time, try and find temperature resistant wire coverings like the pieces still on the coil and inlet CVVT solenoid.

Can you clarify the connector that you are having a challenge with?

Fitting the timing belt wrongly can be bad for the engine. It is harder on these later engines as they have CCVT cams fitted (intake on NA and exhaust on turbo engines). There is also a requirement to get the manual belt adjuster fitted correctly.

Marking with a paint pen various points on the original belt in relation to the cam sprockets and the crank pulley and then marking the new belt with the original laid on it can help to get the belt positioned correctly. I recall Abscate doing a write up on this.

Neil.

[rtjl]

Continuing towards pressure diagnosis, but first;

mini update:

Funny because you have to laugh ;
When I tried to attack the screws on the on the fuse box, the bit almost immidiately fell into the engine bay, but I never heard it hit the floor.

After a few minutes of looking with the endoscope, I found the location. I placed a string through a plastic pipe and tied a small magnet that would fit inside the pipe on the fishing end, and tied the other end to something big enough that the string couldnt fall through. found a path and send the pipe in for an extraction. Bit was on a medal platform, so had to cover it with the pipe so that the magnet was touching at the same time, and carefully slid the pipe sideways off the platform until the bit was dangling to the magnet. Voila!

spare parts and cleaning solutions:

Following are some previously mentioned or unmentioned parts, spares, or tools. I have not purchased any of these since the beginning of my threads. I already owned all items or they were included in the deal. (spare wheel sets photos not included)

Spare sensor:

I used this spray on the internal sensor area. Short bursts of spray for 3-5 seconds followed by a stirring and a dump. I probably repeated this 4 or 5 times.

Sensor cleaner:

Spare throttle body:

I tried my best, but I cant help but OCD over how poor the result looks. I understand its likely normal for an old used part, but I'm really not satisfied with how the result looks. I probably spent a good 5-6 hours cleaning this over and over with a flathead surrounded by Q-Tips and a multi layered cloth soaked in Throttle Kleen, followed by another round with just Q-Tips and the rag, just a rag, a tooth brush, and a slightly harder plastic brush. By the end I could not handle the fumes and threw in the towel.

Throttle body cleaner:

The following are other spare parts or items I have available.

caps:

bulbs:

no idea what these are.

Spare struts (I have a pair, only one shown)

spare tie rods (initially labeled as sway bar. still green)

Spare coil injectors. (each of these look somewhat damaged. the off brand one looks completely broken.)

Spare fuel pump:

Spare fuel filter:

Torque wrench:

Lubes / sprays and seals:

At this stage I will save the remaining photos for the next post (dry cold compression test, endocope cylinder pictures, pressure readings, etc)

Once i've removed and documented all spark plugs and cylinders, I will plug back ground cable and perform dry cold compression test with 8 revolutions each cylinder.

hopefully all done by tomorrow morning.

Cheers,

Jonathan

[abscate]

Throttle body looks nice and clean
Its also a Xmodex rebuilt version, which Is good news

[rtjl]

All spares were included in the deal.

To be honest, the purchase and experience with seller was such a blessing of a first car purchase. I did not know how good the maintenance and spares pile was when I first found the deal. I'm not even comfortable discussing what I paid publicly because i joked with him and my friends that "I robbed that nice old man."

The car was purchased by an older gentleman, and kept for 13 years and maintained by original Volvo dealer. It was then sold to another older gentleman who also continued maintenance at original Volvo dealer. The third owner , my mentioned nice older gentleman, purchased the vehicle and drove it to city and had the car for less than 9 months in the city of Toronto. He really did me a solid.

I cleaned the MAF with SensorKleen, not the ThrottleKleen.

Compression results, up next!

[rtjl]

Another (good) surprise.

Following are photos of spark plugs and some endoscope photos of the cylinder area.

ELECTRONIC COMPRESSION RESULTS:

Cylinder 1: 160 (8 revs)
Cylinder 2: 171.4 (9 revs)
Cylinder 3: 176.2 (8 revs)
Cylinder 4: 181 (8 revs)
Cylinder 5: 179.9 (8 revs)

It would appear we have pressure. High, but existant. I have no idea what the previous mechanics (mechanic 2) did. I will follow this post up with a screenshot of a text that mechanic 1 claimed he did as part of his diagnostics (as mechanic 2 only checked pressure, and did so incorrectly, so I don't trust him as much anymore)

All spark plugs have massive carbon buildup.

some seats of some of the spark plugs are dirtier than others.

One of the cylinder area seems suspiciously clean ( I believe cylinder 3), 5th cylinder looks it has a very dark buildup above the valve, and the 4th appears to have pitting occuring. (labeled as endo cyl 3e, but is actually 4th cylinder photo)

A friend has suggested that I take better photos of the walls and base again in the morning as it was getting dark. I will do that in a few hours when there is light.

Thank you all for your continued support. I'd love to reciprocate somehow but other than a coffee or offering my time to you, i'm not sure how much I can do.

[rtjl]

The first mechanic claimed to have performed an extensive diagnostics.

Again, I trust nothing he says, but we may find something of use from statements at this point. (he also claimed he was able to get the car up to higher (highway) speeds, but I have never seen the car exceed 30mph)