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1998 Volvo v70 xc - awd fuel pump issue?

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » 1998 Volvo v70 xc - awd fuel pump Fix
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notfadeaway
Posts: 33
Joined: 11 March 2012
Year and Model: 1999 XC 70
Location: syracuse

Re: 1998 Volvo v70 xc - awd fuel pump issue?

Post by notfadeaway »

http://www.erievovo.com/partsearch.html awesome used part resource for anyone in new york

mjh130
Posts: 3
Joined: 28 March 2012
Year and Model: 2004
Location: Canada

Post by mjh130 »

Great articles everyone. I was on the verge of taking my 98 v70 to a shop to have the tank dropped, I'm sure that would have cost me major $. So here's my problem.

I've cut the hole and found that there is a pin hole in the fuel return line (nearest one to door) that has been causing my leak, my pump has been fine, just puddling gas.

My dilemma is in the removal of the fitting at the pump assembly. The elbow, with the pin hole collapsed but there is still the coupling and the black plastic quick release on the pump outlet. I fashioned a removal tool a la Snipercat's design (brilliant!), but I still can get the damn thing off. There is play up and down idependantly of both the quick release and the metal coupling/elbow. I think I might be going about it wrong...

What is the trick here? Do I depress the black quick release down and then pull up on the rest of the coupling? Any help is so appreciated!!!!

Cheers,
Mike

notfadeaway
Posts: 33
Joined: 11 March 2012
Year and Model: 1999 XC 70
Location: syracuse

Post by notfadeaway »

I had to run new lines , Image rubber fuel line and those right there . The stock hard plastic/rubber hoses connect to a metal fuel line

mjh130
Posts: 3
Joined: 28 March 2012
Year and Model: 2004
Location: Canada

Post by mjh130 »

notfadeaway wrote:I had to run new lines , Image rubber fuel line and those right there . The stock hard plastic/rubber hoses connect to a metal fuel line
Any advice for getting those quick releases off?

notfadeaway
Posts: 33
Joined: 11 March 2012
Year and Model: 1999 XC 70
Location: syracuse

Post by notfadeaway »

I left them on didn't have much luck getting them off ....felt like humping a doorknob so I switched methods of attack

mjh130
Posts: 3
Joined: 28 March 2012
Year and Model: 2004
Location: Canada

Post by mjh130 »

Thanks!-I get what you mean. So you left it on, and slipped some hosing over it. No leaks? I've got a part of the original metal elbow still latched onto that black plastic quick release. Not sure I'd get a good seal over it with hosing and clamps? I'm going to keep working at it on my next day off. Thankfully I'm close enough to work I can commute by bike :)

notfadeaway
Posts: 33
Joined: 11 March 2012
Year and Model: 1999 XC 70
Location: syracuse

Post by notfadeaway »

the quick connect essentially forms a barb underneath the prev fuel line as does the metal fuel line great seal no leaks . Those clamps work well , don't get the schwaag worm clamps though its to highpressure of a system for those to work

notfadeaway
Posts: 33
Joined: 11 March 2012
Year and Model: 1999 XC 70
Location: syracuse

Post by notfadeaway »

I had a Mercedes with a w-v-o system before it's whole fuel system was put together using those never leaked

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matthew1
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Post by matthew1 »

New mega-well-documented writeup on this: AWD Volvo Fuel Pump Replacement Tutorial by MVS reader Brian. Not sure if he's on this forum, he just sent me that via email.
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1998 V70, no dash lights on

1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace

2004 V70 R [gone]

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DurangoStang
Posts: 13
Joined: 29 January 2008
Year and Model: 2007 S60 2.5T AWD
Location: La Crosse, Wisconsin

Post by DurangoStang »

I recently replaced the fuel pump on my '99 AWD S70 using the floor cut technique, and I'm still having trouble with the car surging upon start-up, and "sputtering" for a few miles/minutes (even after the surging has stopped). I replaced only the insert (I found a Walbro GJ 235 from a place in England - more on that in another post), and I'm wondering if I put the assembly back together correctly? My theory is that something isn't sealing correctly, thus allowing the system's pressure to dissipate after the car has been off for a few minutes. At the base of the Walbro insert, at the intake tube, there is a blue rubber "doughnut" that fits into a recess at the bottom of the housing. below this, there is a plastic screen, and an orange piece of rubber (that is, if I have this together correctly). This appears to be a check valve. The orange piece is loose below the screen - it can actually rattle around if you shake the assembly. As far as I can tell, this is the correctly assembled, but if someone knows differently, or has some suggestions of things to look for, I'd appreciate your insight. Also, I'm wondering if the seal below the ring where the fuel pump mounts inside the gas tank could be leaking and causing this problem. I had trouble getting it to seal, but think I have it good now (a little finessing was required to get the "lip" around the seal to go around the neck of the tank without being folded under). Finally, there is the possibility that this is a completely new and unrelated problem. Again, any insight into how to fix this would be appreciated (and yes, I'll buy a new assembly if that is what it takes, but would prefer to just fix what I have - partly a $ issue, and now, partly pride!). Thanks in advance.
'07 S60 AWD Volvo
2 '66 Mustang Coupes
'55 Plymouth Belevedere

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