1998 S70 T5M 240k the Road to Stage 0

WhatAmIDoing · Post by **WhatAmIDoing** » 04 Nov 2019, 22:58

Reviving my original topic to further document my repairs and the journey of getting my beloved T5M up to stage 0. Since I now only have one car to work on, it seems like I should work on it.

Completed repairs that I remember:

new rear rotors and pads
original airbox reinstalled
turbo vacuum lines fixed
various little interior fixes
new washer nozzles and disconnected headlight washers
new fog lights
All rubber brake hoses replaced and new front calipers
fuel pump relay
heater core
new headlights
probably some other stuff, but I've done a bad job keeping track

What's currently broke that should be fixed: (yes I've been living with most of these problems since 2016)

Cruise control
hand brake
coolant leaks
exhaust leak / painfully loud exhaust
clutch
rear main seal
headliner disaster
windshield

Edit: Can a Mod change the title of the thread?
Edit: Added more repairs I forgot.

Post by **E Showell** » 05 Nov 2019, 03:08

Two things concern me on your to do list: rear main seal and coolant leak. Have you done the glove test to determine the state of your PCV system? If not, you might want to. A clogged PCV system could produce the rear main seal leak. Otherwise, add some ATP 205 seal conditioner to the crankcase. That may help. Coolant leak. You may have a leaking heater core. Does it take a long time to defrost the windshield? Is there a faint sweet smell ( maple syrup-like) when you turn the heater on, or a mysterious film on the inside of the windshield? If so, you are due for a heater core replacement.

Post by **abscate** » 05 Nov 2019, 05:17

Can you tell me the desired title please?

If you are close to me I can help with that clutch job

greg850r · Post by **greg850r** » 05 Nov 2019, 22:23

abscate wrote: ↑31 Jul 2016, 05:04 Your cruise control is vacuum actuated and that sounds like a. Bad hose or leaking vacuum in that System. I think it lives under the battery in your car

Replace ALL your soft vacuum lines and elbows. If they aren't bad now, they will be soon. Use silicone replacements if you plan on keeping it. Cheap insurance.

E Showell wrote: ↑31 Jul 2016, 15:40 I was under the belief that turbo=synthetic oil, no?

Yes, always.

Edit: once again I respond to page 1 and after notice 7 more pages.....

Post by **abscate** » 06 Nov 2019, 01:31

Thanks for pedagogical reinforcement, Greg.

WhatAmIDoing · Post by **WhatAmIDoing** » 06 Nov 2019, 10:10

E Showell wrote: ↑05 Nov 2019, 03:08 Two things concern me on your to do list: rear main seal and coolant leak. Have you done the glove test to determine the state of your PCV system? If not, you might want to. A clogged PCV system could produce the rear main seal leak. Otherwise, add some ATP 205 seal conditioner to the crankcase. That may help. Coolant leak. You may have a leaking heater core. Does it take a long time to defrost the windshield? Is there a faint sweet smell ( maple syrup-like) when you turn the heater on, or a mysterious film on the inside of the windshield? If so, you are due for a heater core replacement.

PCV passes glove test. RMS has been leaking since 200k mi according to PO. First repair job I ever did was the heater core (added that to my list created from poor memory). But, I only replaced the heater core and the o-rings, not the heater hoses. Three leaks have now been identified: my new aftermarket lower rad hose, coolant bottle return hose at the clamp, and coolant puddling on the thermostat housing.

abscate wrote: ↑05 Nov 2019, 05:17 Can you tell me the desired title please?

If you are close to me I can help with that clutch job

"High Mileage '98 S70 T5M the Road to Stage 0"

Not close right now, but I can be. Clutch really needs to be done. Not sure how much longer I can baby it. I've got all the parts now, but I've been unable to find a garage to use while working on it (would rather not do it all outside by myself). Would be nice to have help at least.

Post by **volvolugnut** » 06 Nov 2019, 13:09

Your 'new aftermarket lower radiator hose' may only need the clamp(s) tightened. Check if the hoses are fully engaged on the nipples and the clamp is not too close to the end of hose, but also not clamping on the barb of the nipple. Clamp torque should be tight. It is hard to explain needed torque - not all you can apply with typical screw driver handle, but more than just snug.
My apologies if you already know all this.

volvolugnut

Post by **abscate** » 06 Nov 2019, 13:32

Added mileage to title and changed.

Post by **E Showell** » 07 Nov 2019, 05:19

Try the ATP 205 in crankcase for RMS leak. You might get lucky. Lots to read about ATP 205 on this site.

Post by **abscate** » 07 Nov 2019, 05:39

Well, you have to yank/ drop the engine for the clutch,so that’s the time for the RMS

1998 S70 T5M 240k the Road to Stage 0

Getting my 98 S70 T5M to Stage 0