Thanks for a great forum, I am helping a coworker try to solve his problems with his Volvo. He had it sitting at a local shop for 2 years while they pretended to try to fix it and claimed the ECM was intermittant but they never replaced it.
1994 960 VIN YV1KS9506R0041126, 147,464 miles. Car ran fine until 130,000 when the timing belt broke requiring an engine rebuild, performed by local independant shop in Plano, TX. Car ran fine again from 130,000 till 147,xxx (about a year) when the current problem suddenly occured.
Problem: Started the car after sitting for a few days, it will start and run fine for 8-10 minutes although check engine light remains on. Then when sitting at a light(robot) for 1-2 minutes, it will then shut down and all the dash lights come on. Turn key to off then restart the car and it will run for 10 seconds or so and will shut down again. It will continue to act like this until you park it and try again the next day.
I followed the retrieving codes procedure and got the following 3 codes: 212 Oxygen sensor, 115 ??, and 113 Fuel injectors.
Short of taking it to a local indy in the Garland / North Dallas area, what would you suggest I do next? I'm a little mechanical having changed brakes on my cars and struts on my lexus LS430. I did a search on 960 and read something about a coolant temperature sensor but not sure what to do now. Many thanks for your suggestions.
1994 960 shuts down after 10 minutes
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billofdurham
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Welcome to Matthew's Volvo Site.
Code 1-1-3 refers to the fuel injectors in group 1 (injectors 1, 2 & 4) and 1-1-5 refers to the fuel injectors in group 2 (whatever's left, oh yes, 3, 5 & 6).
Code 2-1-2 is the oxygen sensor.
Initial check on the injectors is done with an ohmmeter or multimeter set to ohms. Disconnect the injection valves and, with the ignition off check between connectors 1 & 2 for each injector in turn. This check is done on the connector attached to the injector. The reading should be approx 16 ohms for each injector. If the reading isn't correct try a new injector.
Next check is done with a voltmeter with the ignition on. Check the incoming side of the connectors at terminal 1, which is on your right as you look at it. Connect the voltmeter between terminal 1 and earth (ground). It should read battery voltage. If you don't have battery voltage check for broken or chafed wires back to the main relay.
If the injectors are not working correctly then the oxygen sensor will detect a fault and the 2-1-2 code will set. If the problem is in the injectors you shouldn't need to worry about this code.
Run the checks on the injectors and let us know what happens.
Bill.
Code 1-1-3 refers to the fuel injectors in group 1 (injectors 1, 2 & 4) and 1-1-5 refers to the fuel injectors in group 2 (whatever's left, oh yes, 3, 5 & 6).
Code 2-1-2 is the oxygen sensor.
Initial check on the injectors is done with an ohmmeter or multimeter set to ohms. Disconnect the injection valves and, with the ignition off check between connectors 1 & 2 for each injector in turn. This check is done on the connector attached to the injector. The reading should be approx 16 ohms for each injector. If the reading isn't correct try a new injector.
Next check is done with a voltmeter with the ignition on. Check the incoming side of the connectors at terminal 1, which is on your right as you look at it. Connect the voltmeter between terminal 1 and earth (ground). It should read battery voltage. If you don't have battery voltage check for broken or chafed wires back to the main relay.
If the injectors are not working correctly then the oxygen sensor will detect a fault and the 2-1-2 code will set. If the problem is in the injectors you shouldn't need to worry about this code.
Run the checks on the injectors and let us know what happens.
Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
Thanks Bill,
I took a look last night and realize I need to buy a repair manual to get this done properly. I found a link for info for removing the injector/rail assembly but really need a diagram to understand what the injector valve is that you mention I have to disconnect. I have a voltmeter so doing the continuity and voltage checks should be ok.
Do I need to remove the rail assembly before doing the tests you mention? It seems really tight under there and not sure if I can get to the injector connectors without the fuel rail assembly being removed.
I read that I need to be careful so I don't lose the small washer under the mounting bolts, too. I was just worried about losing the bolts when I unscrewed them, not sure how I'm going to hang on to the washers, too. This should be an interesting learning experience.
I'll check around to see if anyone has a Chilton repair manual, stopped by AutoZone on the way home and they didn't. Otherwise I'll order the repair manual on DVD that I saw on eBay for $17.
Thanks again for your assistance.
I took a look last night and realize I need to buy a repair manual to get this done properly. I found a link for info for removing the injector/rail assembly but really need a diagram to understand what the injector valve is that you mention I have to disconnect. I have a voltmeter so doing the continuity and voltage checks should be ok.
Do I need to remove the rail assembly before doing the tests you mention? It seems really tight under there and not sure if I can get to the injector connectors without the fuel rail assembly being removed.
I read that I need to be careful so I don't lose the small washer under the mounting bolts, too. I was just worried about losing the bolts when I unscrewed them, not sure how I'm going to hang on to the washers, too. This should be an interesting learning experience.
I'll check around to see if anyone has a Chilton repair manual, stopped by AutoZone on the way home and they didn't. Otherwise I'll order the repair manual on DVD that I saw on eBay for $17.
Thanks again for your assistance.
You will not have to remove the fuel rail assembly to test the injectors, just remove the heat guard, and to do that you will have to remove the bellows for the cruise control off of the throttle body, the bellow prevents the heat guard movement needed for removal. Once the cruise control bellow is removed, standing on the driverside, pull the top of the guard towards you, it will pivot, once it is moved towards you as far as it can go, lift straight up. To install is the reverse.
Now, codes 113/115 are one of the most elusive to remedy, I had it for a 1 1/2 years before I stumbled to a solution.
Diagnostic codes are just starting points to get to the solution, sometimes as Bill suggested a code may only be there part or innocent of the actual problem. My problem was a bad ground or corrosion on a connector, by the time I was done there was no way to really determine the cause.
I do have the Volvo fault tracing book and there are some key tests that can be done with the tools you have.
In a nut shell, you are having a continuity problem with the injector wiring. I could send those pages to you if want.
A common fault up to '94 was the grounding of the injectors coming to a single wire between the engine block and the intake manifold. That solder point can fail, I re did mine while I was replacing the head gasket to prevent any future problems.
First, I would start with cleaning and tightening all connectors and ground points in and around the engine.
Also near the engine code reader, are two small gray boxes, those are the relays for the injectors and ignition. Identical part numbers, try swapping the relays, the injector side demands more amperage so the swap usually does not effect the ignition side. The big plug under the black box on the shock tower needs servicing also.
Cleaning connectors is an annual thing for me, Volvo connectors are weather resistant, not weatherproof. By now though the wires under the hood are good and brittle, another Volvo invention, biodegradable wire insulation. Thought they were done with that back when my '85 needed a new engine harness.
I have had to replace connectors to: the horn, outside temp sensor, all of the spark plug coils, the cruise control air pump, and some of the front parking light, turn signals. So treat the wires with care.
Clean the ground points on top of the engine for the injectors, the rear of the head to the firewall, the one on the frame between the battery and the engine. Also there is a ground point on the driverside engine mount bracket, this one controls the 02 sensor heater and the power stages for the ignition system, hard to find and reach but worth cleaning.
Also next time it stalls, check and see if you have spark, it could be you have a couple of problems at once. There are no codes for spark, so lacking spark might trigger other misleading codes. To do that, use a voltmeter on the female lead at the back of the head, it is with the RPM sensor and cam sensor connections. That lead and ground should show battery voltage with the ignition on.
The fuel pump relay or fuel pump can be another source of sudden stalling.
Your symptoms seem to be heat related, the engine heats up to a point, the source is triggered and the engine stalls.
Relays, pumps, corroded wire connectors, wire breaks all are potential culprits.
DanR '94 964 353,000 miles (119,000 on the new engine)
Now, codes 113/115 are one of the most elusive to remedy, I had it for a 1 1/2 years before I stumbled to a solution.
Diagnostic codes are just starting points to get to the solution, sometimes as Bill suggested a code may only be there part or innocent of the actual problem. My problem was a bad ground or corrosion on a connector, by the time I was done there was no way to really determine the cause.
I do have the Volvo fault tracing book and there are some key tests that can be done with the tools you have.
In a nut shell, you are having a continuity problem with the injector wiring. I could send those pages to you if want.
A common fault up to '94 was the grounding of the injectors coming to a single wire between the engine block and the intake manifold. That solder point can fail, I re did mine while I was replacing the head gasket to prevent any future problems.
First, I would start with cleaning and tightening all connectors and ground points in and around the engine.
Also near the engine code reader, are two small gray boxes, those are the relays for the injectors and ignition. Identical part numbers, try swapping the relays, the injector side demands more amperage so the swap usually does not effect the ignition side. The big plug under the black box on the shock tower needs servicing also.
Cleaning connectors is an annual thing for me, Volvo connectors are weather resistant, not weatherproof. By now though the wires under the hood are good and brittle, another Volvo invention, biodegradable wire insulation. Thought they were done with that back when my '85 needed a new engine harness.
I have had to replace connectors to: the horn, outside temp sensor, all of the spark plug coils, the cruise control air pump, and some of the front parking light, turn signals. So treat the wires with care.
Clean the ground points on top of the engine for the injectors, the rear of the head to the firewall, the one on the frame between the battery and the engine. Also there is a ground point on the driverside engine mount bracket, this one controls the 02 sensor heater and the power stages for the ignition system, hard to find and reach but worth cleaning.
Also next time it stalls, check and see if you have spark, it could be you have a couple of problems at once. There are no codes for spark, so lacking spark might trigger other misleading codes. To do that, use a voltmeter on the female lead at the back of the head, it is with the RPM sensor and cam sensor connections. That lead and ground should show battery voltage with the ignition on.
The fuel pump relay or fuel pump can be another source of sudden stalling.
Your symptoms seem to be heat related, the engine heats up to a point, the source is triggered and the engine stalls.
Relays, pumps, corroded wire connectors, wire breaks all are potential culprits.
DanR '94 964 353,000 miles (119,000 on the new engine)
DanR,
this was an awesome write-up, I will be trying all the things you mention. Could you send me the info you mentioned, "Volvo fault tracing book and there are some key tests that can be done with the tools you have." That would gie me some added direction.
I found the repair manual and will be adding it to my arsenal.
this was an awesome write-up, I will be trying all the things you mention. Could you send me the info you mentioned, "Volvo fault tracing book and there are some key tests that can be done with the tools you have." That would gie me some added direction.
I found the repair manual and will be adding it to my arsenal.
Thanks to the suggestions of Billofdurham and DanR, I did the following and don't know what exactly fixed it but it's working ok now with no codes. Many thanks to both of you!!!
My Repair Story: Sat July 24, 2010
Since the car had been sitting at the shop for almost 2 years I put a battery charger on the battery, it was at 70% and I got it to 100% charge after a few hours. I knew I didn't want a low/weak battery as part of the potential problem.
I removed the connectors to the fuel injectors and did continuity tests and they ranged between 17 and 18.3 ohms. Also checked power coming to the injectors and all had 12.2V at pin 1 so figured the injectors were fine. I sprayed everything with contact cleaner and reassembled.
Then following DanR's suggestions, I unscrewed the 2 ground lugs from the fuel injector harness that were bolted onto the motor and used a brass brush and scrubbed the motor mounting points and the bolts and used sand paper and cleaned up the lugs and then reassembled everything.
Next I switched the two gray relays that are near the engine code reader. They are the same part numbers and I also cleaned the connectors, sprayed them out with contact cleaner and reassembled.
Then I removed the ground lug from the battery and the screw that had a lug on it where it was attached to chassis ground. There was a bit of corrosion on the lug and on the screw so I had to sand that pretty good to get it to bare metal and used the brass brush on the screw. Thought it was interesting that the lug was screwed over a painted surface so the primary contact must be with the screw. I used some dialectric grease after I had put everything back together so it would stay clean in the future.
Then we took it out to see what the results were and noticed the gas tank was about empty. Went and filled it up with 92 octane at a gas station that was 4 miles away and the car seemed to be running fine. Drove it for another 20 minutes and the car never hesitated or faltered.
Brought it back home and let it cool while I cooked some hotdogs on the grill. After 45 minutes we went out and reset the code box and they cleared per the instructions. Started the car and the check engine light was now off! Drove it for 45 minutes under various conditions and the car runs great. My friend was amazed that we fixed it following some simple instructions from this forums. So much for the mechanic who had it for 2 years, we got it fixed in 3 hours.
My Repair Story: Sat July 24, 2010
Since the car had been sitting at the shop for almost 2 years I put a battery charger on the battery, it was at 70% and I got it to 100% charge after a few hours. I knew I didn't want a low/weak battery as part of the potential problem.
I removed the connectors to the fuel injectors and did continuity tests and they ranged between 17 and 18.3 ohms. Also checked power coming to the injectors and all had 12.2V at pin 1 so figured the injectors were fine. I sprayed everything with contact cleaner and reassembled.
Then following DanR's suggestions, I unscrewed the 2 ground lugs from the fuel injector harness that were bolted onto the motor and used a brass brush and scrubbed the motor mounting points and the bolts and used sand paper and cleaned up the lugs and then reassembled everything.
Next I switched the two gray relays that are near the engine code reader. They are the same part numbers and I also cleaned the connectors, sprayed them out with contact cleaner and reassembled.
Then I removed the ground lug from the battery and the screw that had a lug on it where it was attached to chassis ground. There was a bit of corrosion on the lug and on the screw so I had to sand that pretty good to get it to bare metal and used the brass brush on the screw. Thought it was interesting that the lug was screwed over a painted surface so the primary contact must be with the screw. I used some dialectric grease after I had put everything back together so it would stay clean in the future.
Then we took it out to see what the results were and noticed the gas tank was about empty. Went and filled it up with 92 octane at a gas station that was 4 miles away and the car seemed to be running fine. Drove it for another 20 minutes and the car never hesitated or faltered.
Brought it back home and let it cool while I cooked some hotdogs on the grill. After 45 minutes we went out and reset the code box and they cleared per the instructions. Started the car and the check engine light was now off! Drove it for 45 minutes under various conditions and the car runs great. My friend was amazed that we fixed it following some simple instructions from this forums. So much for the mechanic who had it for 2 years, we got it fixed in 3 hours.
It's baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaack! My friend just told me that he was driving the car for a few months and everything was working just fine. Then one day a few months ago he drove it and it started acting just like before, shut down while driving and then he shifted it to neutral and got it restarted and drove it home and it has been sitting there ever since.
I was thinking about buying it and using it as a daily driver because I only have a 16 mile roundtrip commute and could use a cheap car - I could buy it from him for $800. Any ideas on how I should go about trying to repair it this time? Is it worth trying to fix it? I would hate to drive it to work and have it shut down and be forced to tow it somewhere and then be stuck with it.
I was thinking about buying it and using it as a daily driver because I only have a 16 mile roundtrip commute and could use a cheap car - I could buy it from him for $800. Any ideas on how I should go about trying to repair it this time? Is it worth trying to fix it? I would hate to drive it to work and have it shut down and be forced to tow it somewhere and then be stuck with it.
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jimmy57
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Voltage drop of relays, use a voltmeter between batt pos and any one of the green wires at injectors while engine is running. You can use a paper clips straightened out and stuck into the back side of injector connector seal. Does it have codes again?
Also it may be time to look at ecu end of harness for any corrosion at those terminals. ECU on a 94 is behind passenger footwell outboard kick panel.
Also it may be time to look at ecu end of harness for any corrosion at those terminals. ECU on a 94 is behind passenger footwell outboard kick panel.
Thanks Jimmy,
Given the history of this car, in your opionin is it worth it to buy it and try to get it running so it can at least get me 8 miles each way to/from work daily? I'm concerned if I buy it and it leaves me stranded on the city streets then I'm going to have a big problem. I guess I would have to buy a AAA menbership at least to insure I get towing coverage. I fixed it once with everyones help, do you think we can do it again? I could use a $800 car, it would save me from my current consideration of buying a 2008 BMW 335i or 2011 Ford Mustang GT Premium. Either car is around $30K.
Given the history of this car, in your opionin is it worth it to buy it and try to get it running so it can at least get me 8 miles each way to/from work daily? I'm concerned if I buy it and it leaves me stranded on the city streets then I'm going to have a big problem. I guess I would have to buy a AAA menbership at least to insure I get towing coverage. I fixed it once with everyones help, do you think we can do it again? I could use a $800 car, it would save me from my current consideration of buying a 2008 BMW 335i or 2011 Ford Mustang GT Premium. Either car is around $30K.
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