2000 s80 t6 twin turbo seals leaking and what else?

thegirl · Post by **thegirl** » 10 Nov 2010, 07:39

I know my twin turbo return seals are leaking, but now something else is leaking. Hope someone can help pinpoint problem and what should be replaced all at the same time. The pictures attached show the oil pan has oil leaking all around it,(Oil pan gasket?) but is that why everything behind is is full of oil. Is it just spraying back on everything as I am driving? Pressure gage it fine, but the leak has grown. The one picture is from above and where the flashlight is shinning shows oil all over, but I do think it is from twin turbo return seals.

I have a mechanic (not volvo) who is going to look at it. I was told that the subframe has to be dropped and I just want to be sure and replace every seal (any anything else such as oil cooler and so on) possible at one time to save on costly repairs. Also, when this occurs would it be any easier to get to the twin turbo return seals. The oil return lines have already been replaced. Please guide me is possible of everything to get replaced at the lowest possible price. I am confused when reading oil leak forums about the oil breather? What is it? Tnank you.

Post by **boosted5cyl** » 10 Nov 2010, 12:18

Subframe dropped? Is he\she kidding? I'd hold off on that for a while and maybe find a new mechanic, someone who knows volvos more intimately.

As you pointed out the PCV system is often the very first cause of oil leaks. The main culprit\area is a black plastic box (AKA oil trap or breather) thats attached to the engine block underneath the inlet manifold, behind the alternator. The part itself is about $35 is its clogged, usually it just needs to be cleaned out with solvents and have the seals replaced ($15!!!). When the seals start to die they can leak oil like you would not believe. It can get everywhere, yes even back where you are looking (I have some there too from mine). when I first got my S80 it was leaking 1qt every 30miles out of the PCV oil seal!! Either way the parts to service the PCV are cheap, its just a bit time consuming as the inlet manifold has to come off. You could do if yourself in an afternoon.

I can do the turbo return seals without removing the subframe and I'm not a professional mechanic. Basically they want to take the "easier" way (which is fair enough) but want you to pay for it. Clogged PCV can cause the turbo to leak oil too if there is excessive crankcase pressure, so start with the PCV. I think you'll still have oozing from the turbo return lines, but really its not a big deal as long as you keep an eye on it.

Heres a pic of my the PCV in my T6....

pcritikos · Post by **pcritikos** » 10 Nov 2010, 14:48

Hi Boosted5cyl,

I have both problems. Question when you did your turbo return seals did you use a 5mm socket or a Torx 30 socket. I called IPD and they offer both tools but are not clear as to what a S80 T6 needs. Also, did you need to tilt the engine forward to access the driver side seal or did you have enoguh room from above? I haven't found any procedure on this but its been a while since I looked.

I've decided to do something as I am loosing a lot of oil ... so its cleanand replace PVC and do the seals time.
Thanks for any feedback!

thegirl · Post by **thegirl** » 11 Nov 2010, 06:40

I ordered a repair manual on e-bay and will be able to see exactly what you speak of. (PVC?) Think I know and see the breather box, but want to be sure. Can it be romoved and repaired by a novice like me?

Post by **boosted5cyl** » 11 Nov 2010, 07:19

pcritikos In my car the bolts holding the oil return pipes on the turbos were 5mm allen. If you get under the car with a flashlight you should be able to see what you have. I didnt tilt the motor, but I had the fenangle a lot. It was hard, just be patient.

Thegirl, yes its something you can do yourself, theres a couple of guides on this site under the repair section. If you know how to unbolt and rebolt stuff you'll be just fine, just take your time, mark things, put them in zippy bags and or take pics as you go if you are worried. Its a PCV (as opposed to PVC, the plastic). It stands for Positive Crankcase Ventiliation. Basically it takes the nasty byproduct gases that escape past the ring and feeds them back into the inlet to be burned.

Your shopping list should be:

P/N 30713120 (PCV tank top seal)
P/N 8653339 (PCV Tank bottom seal)
P/N 9458535 (Inlet manifold gasket)
A fuel line separator tool (any auto stor should have one for around $10)
Some degreaser and a stiff brush to clean everything.
Carb cleaner to clean out the inside of the PCV tank (black box thingy)

thegirl · Post by **thegirl** » 18 Nov 2010, 09:54

just got a vadis dvd and learning how to use it? Now I can at least look at the parts you mention and go from there. Bought it off of e-bay for $13.95

aahmes57 · Post by **aahmes57** » 18 Nov 2010, 12:52

I have an S70 with oil everywhere, smoke out of the dipstick etc etc, I just ordred the kit for the PCV redo from IPD Volvo 503-257-7500 per the advice of one of the guys who just did and documented the procedure in the S70 site. $107 and change includes shipping.
I don't know if the process is similiar for the S70/80 but the guy did a fantastic job documenting it with pictures and text as well.
He also mentioned for me to check for a camshaft seal leak since I'm losing so much so fast.
Good luck, I'll be doing mine this weekend. Taking it apart anyway.

1998 S70 177,000 MILES

thegirl · Post by **thegirl** » 28 Nov 2010, 13:01

ok, now I am stuck. I have some line the passes over the top of the turbo line and does not give enough to get the line out at the bottom. I am going to attach two photos. One is of the line that is in the way and it is unbolted and the other picture I am pointing to the line. So close, but cant get the turbo line out with this other line in the way.

thegirl · Post by **thegirl** » 28 Nov 2010, 13:04

If I cant get this line off, I cant remove the turbo line to replace the o-ring seal.

Post by **boosted5cyl** » 28 Nov 2010, 16:30

Funny, I just came inside to take a break from wresting with that pipe myself while putting mine back together. You should be able to do it with some (a lot) of fenangling. Loosen the manifold bolts (probably already done?) and also loosen the two bolts that hold the return pipe onto the bottom of the turbo. This should give you enough room to get at the seal in the block.

Failing that, you can remove the bolt that clamps the offending pipe onto the block. Follow it from the turbo to the front of the block and you will find a pretty big bolt thats accessible through the wheelwell at the back of the motor. You will find both turbo oil feed lines bolted on here. Ideally you should replace the copper rings however.