2003 V70 2.4T Tranny replace?

lizardheart · Post by **lizardheart** » 16 Mar 2014, 13:50

So yeh, I've always gotten good info here, hopefully I've added to a few things as well….so once again I'm at it…

I'm starting to et shifting trouble in this car, it has 185k so I guess I've done pretty well….since the car is still running well and in great shape and fact it I like it, I'm thinking about going ahead and doing the tranny replace, but I'm thinking about doing it myself.

So is that a reality based notion, or is it really super hard?

I'm pretty handy and definitely believe and act on the idea that in general even with buying special tools I can save money and end up with tools that I may use again and/or sell, and still come out ahead of what I would do with a dealer or shop…having said that this IS a fairly big job I'm guessing….

So how hard is this, and does anyone know much about the physical job of dropping the old one and putting the new one in, and where is the best place to find one to put into it that isn't already beat to hell…?

Thanx for any input, it's not critical yet but I'm getting my info and ducks together in advance, as I know it's coming…..

lizardheart · Post by **lizardheart** » 17 Mar 2014, 15:02

Dang, 60 views…….crickets…..

Post by **matthew1** » 17 Mar 2014, 15:17

For the acquisition, call Volvo Salvage and Southern Vo-Vo, sponsors at the top of the page.

The procedure... perhaps Precopster will chime in.

Post by **oragex** » 17 Mar 2014, 15:47

Like matthew says, precopster is someone on forum that is well used with tranny rebuilds. I think generally speaking, it's a job that with time and patience is very doable. If you don't already have them, a 3/8 and a 1/2 ratchets and a set of sockets from 8mm up to 18 or 19mm should be enough for this job. A good set is about $40, but often goes on sale for less than 20$. Something like Mastercraft if they sell it in the US should be plenty enough.
Also a 2ft extension bar is a must - I have one from a hardware store, it's an steel bar for electrical cables.

What's more important is to find a transmission 2003+ (don't buy 2001-2002) with low mileage and with clear red fluid inside. Skip if the fluid is dark.

Post by **precopster** » 18 Mar 2014, 05:28

I don't know about judging fluid color as a means of determining the state of it. When problems begin the first thing a private user will try is replacing the fluid. If that doesn't have the reqiired effect perhaps give the car up for salvage???

Or as Oragex is implying it could be a fastidiously owned and maintained example.

Wow it can be a real big lucky dip buying a used transmission It would be great if you could ACTUALLY DRIVE a car with a nicely warmed up transmission before purchasing the car's transmsission. If a seller can assure you they've already done this but what are the chances? Cars usually enter a salvage yard due to damage that stops them being legally driven and if they were driven it would be from the tray truck into the salvage yard; not a great testing protocol.

I have rebuilt 2 valve bodies so far with good results. One was from a '02 S60 AWD with 80k Miles and another on a '02 XC with same miles as yours. The transmission stays in the car and the lower subframe corner is dropped. My third transmission repair is yet to be completed but is not far off.

The valve body rebuild thread is here: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=62140

Post by **oragex** » 18 Mar 2014, 05:58

As precopster says, it's a decision to be taken when looking for a transmission replacement in these cars.

Volvo (among other car makers) made 10 years back a lethal decision. For some unexplained engineering or marketing reason, the Volvo representatives were instructed not to suggest any kind of transmission maintenance (fluid flush) for the life of the vehicle. As a result, most owners never had the fluid replaced, and experienced transmission issues at higher (but not that higher) miles. It was mainly that the valve body in those transmissions was getting contaminated with normal wear particles. Some owners - like precopster did - replaced the valve body in time, and the transmission kept operating fine. Other didn't repair this part and ended in salvage yards with a perfect engine and a now irreversibly damaged transmission.

It's a luck getting a transmission from a salvage yard. Several owners that started having trans troubles, replaced the fluid, then it was too late and sold the car for parts. So even a clear fluid color might not be a good indicator. If your shifting troubles are relatively recent, you might try in this order: replacing the fluid with the 3309 fluid by draining it - absolutely no 'power flush' at garages, replace the valve body - much easier job that replacing the whole transmission, finally replacing the transmission.

A transmission from a crashed car with low mileage, or from a car with a blown engine (because of the timing belt) will be a good bet to start with. A low mileage means around 60-70k miles. You might also check the years compatible with your vehicle, and look for a more recent donor car.

lizardheart · Post by **lizardheart** » 20 Mar 2014, 15:29

Lots of good info, before all, thanx for the help….

So the only trannies will be used ones from a salvage yard, and there are no rebuilts or other good condition ones to be found, as I'm understanding this?

And so the only thing I can really do is try changing out the fluid, and/or replacing the valve, which is a fairly "do-able" thing it sounds like…?

Thanx all!

Post by **oragex** » 20 Mar 2014, 16:52

First, I'd check the fluid level. It might be missing a bit, and improve a bit with the correct level. From that point you can make a decision to leave it like that or go for repairs.

Replacing the fluid by yourself is about $100 but at this point, I'd guess you won't see big change in shifting. It's nothing miraculous, unless there is missing fluid, as mentioned.

Basically, if at this point the shifting issues are not due to missing fluid, there are two options, depending of how much damaged the transmission is.

First option, if shifting flares are not so harsh, and did happen only since not too long, there is a good chance a new (kit) valve body or a cleaned valve body will bring the transmission to a normal operation. This will be the best bet.

Second option, if the transmission issues are there for quite a while, the transmission did develop more damage than just the body valve. At this point you are looking for a full transmission replacement.

Based on this, it's easy to understand what kind of replacement transmission conditions you can find in a salvage yard. Now, one would think, if so many Volvo owners had issues with their transmissions, then there must be quite a few Volvo out there with high miles yet an almost brand new transmission installed. Based on what I've read on forums, it looks like actually Volvo won't replace transmissions with a brand new one, but rather with rebuild ones.... In my understanding, Volvo won't go with a fully refurbished transmission - that will be too costly. Owners reported having issues with the rebuild transmissions as well.

lizardheart · Post by **lizardheart** » 20 Mar 2014, 17:21

It's my sense that the flaring has been only in the last 6 months, and that it has not been that bad except when I have a load in the car and I'm accelerating hard on the freeway, then it can flare pretty bad between 3-4 gears….

I see your thinking about older cars having newer trannies, finding them is the trick I guess….

Does anyone have a sense of what the tranny would cost from Volvo, and how tough it would be to put it in for me?

Post by **precopster** » 20 Mar 2014, 20:43

VIN ? I can check it out for you