2001 XC70 No start after head work
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SwedishMeatballs
- Posts: 6
- Joined: 05 Nov 2014, 02:04
- Year and Model: 2001 xc70
- Location: United States
Hello mates, this is my first post to the forums but I'm in awful need of help. I've never worked on a Volvo in my life, however I have built a few import cars (my other car is a 1989 MK3 supra fully built, gt35R, yada yada yada). So anyway, after a drunk driver totaled my Lexus, I decided to buy my sisters barely running-coolant mixed with oil-head warped-golden turd-2001 Volvo xc70 with 144k on stock everything (literally). So far I've resurfaced the warped head (came within .001 of Volvo specs), put in a new head gasket, rebuilt the turbo, and replaced every vacuum line, gasket, and seals. Basically built a new Volvo yeah??
But with having the camshafts out of the head, I had to redo the timing from scratch... And no offense Volvo lovers but the timing marks are incredibly hard to find!!!
So with everything lined up (or so it seems) I then turned the crank over by hand with no noticeable interference, I went to start the car.. However, it refused to start!! I know it has spark and fuel, but the timing didn't seem 100% correct
I really hope I haven't belt a valve on my basically new head... but any suggestions as to what else it may be?? P.s. I just tonight found some better pictures of the timing marks so I may have done the timing on the crankshaft wrong..
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draser
- Posts: 790
- Joined: 18 Aug 2011, 10:49
- Year and Model: 2005 S60 2.5T
- Location: Detroit MI
- Been thanked: 2 times
Quick check is o line up timing marks and check slots in camshafts to be horizontal. To access the slots you need to get to plastic caps at opposite end and remove.
2005 Volvo S60 2.5T, Zimmerman/Akebono brakes
2012 Honda Accord, EBC slotted rotors
2012 Honda Accord, EBC slotted rotors
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SwedishMeatballs
- Posts: 6
- Joined: 05 Nov 2014, 02:04
- Year and Model: 2001 xc70
- Location: United States
Update, I readjusted the timing and it got compression but fired out the intake. I think the exhaust timing is slightly off and I found the riming tensioner is failing so I picked up a new one that I will install and retry tomorrow.
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SwedishMeatballs
- Posts: 6
- Joined: 05 Nov 2014, 02:04
- Year and Model: 2001 xc70
- Location: United States
also would anyone so happen to have some color pictures of the timing marks for 2001? I have the black and white ones but color would be best.
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SwedishMeatballs
- Posts: 6
- Joined: 05 Nov 2014, 02:04
- Year and Model: 2001 xc70
- Location: United States
It could be due to the valve simply not closing 100%.... of course it's playing with fire but what else am I supposed to do when no one seems to have good pictures of the timing... please people don't reply to this thread if you are stating the obvious.
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SwedishMeatballs
- Posts: 6
- Joined: 05 Nov 2014, 02:04
- Year and Model: 2001 xc70
- Location: United States
I'm sorry, do you mean the gears on the front end of the cam? If so, no I did not remove the gears. They stayed attached but the cams did have to come out of the head when I dropped it off to be jet washed and resurfaced.
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draser
- Posts: 790
- Joined: 18 Aug 2011, 10:49
- Year and Model: 2005 S60 2.5T
- Location: Detroit MI
- Been thanked: 2 times
The first reply was that your timing marks - as good or bad as they are - should correlate with the slots in the camshafts being horizontal. That is the starting point after cam work or any major dissassembly. It's common practice if you do engine work to walk the engine thru the steps to make sure timing works as it should. Whether you've done that or not is everyone's guess hence the reply.
2005 Volvo S60 2.5T, Zimmerman/Akebono brakes
2012 Honda Accord, EBC slotted rotors
2012 Honda Accord, EBC slotted rotors
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chrism
- Posts: 1351
- Joined: 28 Jan 2009, 09:38
- Year and Model: S80 / 2005
- Location: Atlanta, GA
- Has thanked: 7 times
- Been thanked: 89 times
If you did not unbolt the sprockets (gears) from the cams, than you don't need to concern yourself with the slots at the other end. You just need to find the TINY marks on the sprockets and align them to the slots on the belt cover. The real challenge though is aligning the crank marks. The best way to have approached this would have been, before you tore the old belt off, align the cam marks and mark the crank sprocket and engine case with a Sharpie. Then when it goes back together you know right where the crank should be when the cams are on their marks. If you do some searching on this sight or on the web you should find some photos of how the crank marks align. It's really wierd.
No chance you got the cams swapped, was there? (I don't even know if that's possible.)
No chance you got the cams swapped, was there? (I don't even know if that's possible.)
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