2002 s60 Timing Belt, Water Pump replacement. Tools+Advice?

[crflammang]

Mechanic tells me it's going to cost $1200 to replace my timing belt, water pump, and some kind of sensor (I'll update with info). I figured now would be a good time to learn how to repair the volvo myself.

Here's what I'm wondering specifically:

1. Where can I get a timing belt + Water pump kit that is cheap and reliable?
2. What tools/equipment/materials should I get for this endeavor? Specific tool kits I should buy?
3. Any advice besides what I can find here ?
4. How many weekends should I ask my boss to borrow the company truck for?

I wanted a reason to learn how to repair my volvo. I guess I have one. Any advice or guidance is appreciated.

[oragex]

If this is the first 100000 miles maintenance, then usually we don't replace the water pump unless it's leaking. For the timing belt and tensioner, although most people swear by OEM, I went with Dayco off Ebay. Later on I've heard Continental and Gates have better parts.

Usually we don't remove the crank shaft pulley. Just cut the old belt out, and slip the new one between the pulley and a small plastic cover. Remember to install the belt first on the intake (towards the front of the engine) cam pulley, then over the exhaust one. This will re-align the two marks on the cam shaft pulleys (these marks appear off with the belt removed but no worry). The tensioner must be adjusted after two complete timing belt turns (it turns easier without the spark plugs). To adjust it easier, I did tighten the bolt a bit so the adjusting needle turned slower, then adjusted it in the middle, then final torque on the bolt which is actually not very tight, only 15 ft lbs

Not a hard job - if stressful. The timing mark on the crankshaft pulley cannot be seen but felt by touch S60 timing belt marks

[vtl]

You can find parts/kit at fcpeuro. Conti/Gates, as mentioned, are good.

I remove crank pulley. It is so easy to do if you have an impact gun. Otherwise get a standard set of metric sockets and a ratchet.

Before removing old timing belt, take white paper corrector and make marks on all pulleys and timing belt. Transfer marks to a new t-belt. Use large paper clips to fix belt on pulleys while you are routing it. It makes alignment super-easy.

First time it will take a bit longer, but generally without water pump I can do it in couple of hours after doing it couple of times in past years.

[chrism]

I've read countless forum posts from people that struggle with this job simply because they loose track of the timing when they are reinstalling the new belt. It can't be stressed enough that BEFORE you remove the old belt, you rotate the crank to bring the cam sprocket marks up to their respective index marks on the plastic cover. If you want, trace the sprocket marks with a Sharpie so they're easier to find. Once the cams are on mark, mark the crankshaft sprocket (valley between teeth) and mark the engine case in line with your crank sprocket mark. NOW you can remove the old belt.

You will read about the variable valve timing (VVT) causing a lot of confusion when trying to retime the cams. If you don't remove either of the cam sprockets from their cams, then you don't need to concern yourself with all of that. Just make sure both cam sprockets and the crank sprocket are all three on their marks when you are all done and the VVT will take care of itself. Pay attention to how the tensioner is set up - lots of past discussions here on this forum. Once the new belt is on and the tensioner is set, be sure to rotate the crank a few times to verify that all the Sharpie marks continue to come back up simultaneously.

[mrscullini]

as others have mentioned, it is a pretty straight forward job. the most important thing is to take your time and set the timing before removing the belt. take your time to ensure the marks are set properly. if you are mechanical and being your first time, i would estimate you can accomplish in about 4 hours taking your time. i've never had much luck without removing the crank pulley. removal makes it easier to get the new belt on and see the crank timing mark.

in addition to the metric sockets, you will need torx bits to remove the bolts that secure the belt/spark plug cover on top of the head. i have also found it useful to have a 1/4" ratchet. also get a torque wrench to properly torque the tensioner. you can get all these tools at harbor freight relatively inexpensively.

while you are at it, you might as well replace the plugs and serpentine belt if they have not been addressed in a while. perhaps the coil packs also if they have never been replaced and depending on your mileage. you can get all parts at ipd or fcp. just search either of those and "volvo". buying necessary tools and all those parts, you will still be way under $1200.

[oragex]

As mentioned above, a basic set of 3/8 Torx sockets is gold for this car. Also, when releasing the tension on the serpentine belt, an extension bar over the ratchet handle is needed. Good idea to unclip the electrical connector for the coolant reservoir when the reservoir is lifted, because the sensor inside breaks easily

[StrokerAce]

First off I'll just say that this Job isnt for a person who only knows how to change spark plugs or Oil. If you dont do it correctly. It will only be a regret at the ebd end of the day. So if you are one of those people. Go to plan B. Most of Us cant afford to mess up our ride. So sometimes it makes perfect sense to have a trained person to do the Job. Sometimes saving money can turn into costing you more money then planned. So look at all options presented. Good Luck...

[abscate]

Old thread alert. We are rejuvenating “ help in your area “ as this is a perfect example of where someone who has done the job before can give you that hour of time that will help make you work out of your comfort zone.

An extra set of eyes and hands are great, and gentlemen will appreciate that we share brains, unlike our better counterparts.