I live in a remote part of France and have a 1998 Volvo v70 which needs inner tie rods replaced.
My nearest wheel alignment center is a 50 mile drive away so I feel that I need to get my alignment pretty close to OK for that drive.
I noticed that different manufacturers of inner tie rods make them different lengths (there is as much as 50 mm difference).
Is there any easy way without dismantling the tie rod assembly of telling what manufacturer my current inner tie rod is or what its length is so that I can order the same - as this would make the re-assembly easier ?
and
I have bought new Lemforder outer tie rods - so is it better to use Lemforder inner tie rods also ?
Inner Tie Rod Manufacturer
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woodycaldercloggs
- Posts: 26
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- Year and Model: v70 1998
- Location: France
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SvenGWK
- Posts: 41
- Joined: 2 March 2018
- Year and Model: 1998 C70
- Location: Berlin
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Hello, I have exactly the same problem. (viewtopic.php?f=1&t=84985)
I suspect that the 98 V70 has the same "chaos" as the C70 of this year...
The C70 uses different steering racks, SMI and TRW.
First you have to find out which steering rack is installed. If it is still the original, you can read the type on the plate in the engine bay. (Identify steering rack type from data plate).
I spoke to a dealer today about the length of the tie rods. He couldn't explain it either. In his opinion, the different data could be related to different measurements.
For example, one manufacturer specifies the length including the axial joint, the other without. That could explain the big differences.
The smaller differences in the mm range can actually exist, but are unproblematic, since the thread is screwed into the tie rod end. There is enough space to more or less compensate for a few mm.
Which tie rod ends you buy you have to decide for yourself. Remember that right and left are different (unlike the tie rods).
The material should not be too cheap. A Febi Bilstein tie rod only lasted 9000 km for me.
You usually don't do anything wrong with Lemfoerder. That's good quality.
I suspect that the 98 V70 has the same "chaos" as the C70 of this year...
The C70 uses different steering racks, SMI and TRW.
First you have to find out which steering rack is installed. If it is still the original, you can read the type on the plate in the engine bay. (Identify steering rack type from data plate).
I spoke to a dealer today about the length of the tie rods. He couldn't explain it either. In his opinion, the different data could be related to different measurements.
For example, one manufacturer specifies the length including the axial joint, the other without. That could explain the big differences.
The smaller differences in the mm range can actually exist, but are unproblematic, since the thread is screwed into the tie rod end. There is enough space to more or less compensate for a few mm.
Which tie rod ends you buy you have to decide for yourself. Remember that right and left are different (unlike the tie rods).
The material should not be too cheap. A Febi Bilstein tie rod only lasted 9000 km for me.
You usually don't do anything wrong with Lemfoerder. That's good quality.
- misha
- Posts: 5379
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- Year and Model: '97 850 2.5 20v
- Location: Serbia
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Lemforder,Delphi,Febi,Meyle HD,Trw,Moog(Federal Mogul) are at the top of the range about suspension parts.
'97 850 2.5 20v / fully equipped / Motronic 4.4 from the factory / upgraded with S,V,C,XC70 instrument cluster / polar white wagon
History of Volvos in the family:
'71 144 S
'73 144 De Luxe
'78 244 DL
'78 244 DL
'79 244 GLE
'85 340 GLS
History of Volvos in the family:
'71 144 S
'73 144 De Luxe
'78 244 DL
'78 244 DL
'79 244 GLE
'85 340 GLS
- FLXC90
- Posts: 1132
- Joined: 18 August 2014
- Year and Model: 98 V70 T5
- Location: Florida Panhandle
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See the data plate information if your car has all those numbers. Both my 98 S70 and 98 V70 were early enough in the production year that they don't have that last digit. Cars with the shorter number are TRW rack from the factory. The character was added to differentiate once SMI was added as a supplier. But again, this is only if the original rack is still installed (Most likely)
Current Volvos:
1998 V70 T5, 112k sat 5 years, still in mechanical coma (finally at the top of the pile )
2004 XC90 T6 AWD: 186k, 60 on transaxle ( traded in )
1998 POS70 N/A: DD/training aid, 236k but really about 240k, I think...ABS module( passed on to son who sold it)
1998 V70 T5, 112k sat 5 years, still in mechanical coma (finally at the top of the pile )
2004 XC90 T6 AWD: 186k, 60 on transaxle ( traded in )
1998 POS70 N/A: DD/training aid, 236k but really about 240k, I think...ABS module( passed on to son who sold it)
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woodycaldercloggs
- Posts: 26
- Joined: 26 May 2015
- Year and Model: v70 1998
- Location: France
- Has thanked: 23 times
Hi,
sounds like you have been through the same process.
I know mine is an SMI rack but the inner tie rods for SMI are shown as different lengths also.
Another question - did you use a special tool to remove and insert the inner tie rod ?
If you did - can you recommend one ?
and what torque did you use to tighten it ?
sounds like you have been through the same process.
I know mine is an SMI rack but the inner tie rods for SMI are shown as different lengths also.
Another question - did you use a special tool to remove and insert the inner tie rod ?
If you did - can you recommend one ?
and what torque did you use to tighten it ?
- jreed
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- Year and Model: '97 Volvo 855 GLT
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I have a '97 850, so my experience may not apply to your '98 V70, but I had good luck using Volvo OEM inner tie rods. I wrote up a short DIY guide here:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=58194#top
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=58194#top
1997 855 GLT (Light Pressure Turbo) still going strong. Previous: 1986 240 GL rusted out in '06, 1985 Saab 900T rusted out in '95, 1975 Saab 99 rusted out in '95, 1973 Saab 99 rusted out in '94
- FLXC90
- Posts: 1132
- Joined: 18 August 2014
- Year and Model: 98 V70 T5
- Location: Florida Panhandle
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I just used a pipe wrench to remove the old, I didn't really torque the new one, just tightened according to how big they are. Mine are all TRW so I haven't had to play the sizing game. Good luck!
Current Volvos:
1998 V70 T5, 112k sat 5 years, still in mechanical coma (finally at the top of the pile )
2004 XC90 T6 AWD: 186k, 60 on transaxle ( traded in )
1998 POS70 N/A: DD/training aid, 236k but really about 240k, I think...ABS module( passed on to son who sold it)
1998 V70 T5, 112k sat 5 years, still in mechanical coma (finally at the top of the pile )
2004 XC90 T6 AWD: 186k, 60 on transaxle ( traded in )
1998 POS70 N/A: DD/training aid, 236k but really about 240k, I think...ABS module( passed on to son who sold it)
- abscate
- MVS Moderator
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You can align them to 0 toe in with curtain rod or dowel , then drive at 70-80kph to your alignment shop ok.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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j-dawg
- Posts: 1154
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- Year and Model: 1999 V70 T5
- Location: Los Angeles, CA
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viewtopic.php?t=70349
viewtopic.php?t=28454
The first guide, which I wrote, will get you good enough to drive to the alignment shop. The second will probably get you a good alignment.
viewtopic.php?t=28454
The first guide, which I wrote, will get you good enough to drive to the alignment shop. The second will probably get you a good alignment.
1999 V70 T5 5-SPD | ~277k mi | sold
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j-dawg
- Posts: 1154
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- Year and Model: 1999 V70 T5
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Also, for what it's worth, a few weeks after that post I got an actual alignment done and found that I wasn't really all that close to spec. But it was close enough to not destroy my tires.
1999 V70 T5 5-SPD | ~277k mi | sold
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