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Ignition/Lock Cylinder Replacement Tutorial

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Volvo Ignition Lock Cylinder Replacement
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Jack Rock
Posts: 313
Joined: 2 June 2010
Year and Model: 1998 V70R
Location: Stratford, Ontario
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Re: Ignition/Lock Cylinder Replacement Tutorial

Post by Jack Rock »

cn90, will the tumbler you have work on a 99 v70xc - I think it would. I'm interested if it does. PM me or reply to this, thanks.
1997 850 T5 (gave up at 324,000km)
1998 V70 R AWD (gave up at 296,000km)
1998 S70 T5 (total loss - in a parking lot!)
1999 V70XC
1975 VW beetle
1960 Empi Sportster Dune Buggy

HeyNeighbor
Posts: 9
Joined: 20 December 2010
Year and Model: V70 2000
Location: Vancouver, WA

Post by HeyNeighbor »

OldSkoolMadSkilz wrote:I just removed my switch. If I'm not mistaken, if you remove that bottom plate, get rid of the conical spring, and fiddle with the wheel lock so that it drops down, it will not break again. The wheel lock won't engage anymore, but I don't see that as a major issue.

For anyone who has not yet started, it may be possible to fix this by drilling a hole in the bottom plate and yanking out the spring without even removing the switch from the column.
I took it a step further and crudely, (what I had on hand) drilled out the SW locking mechanism altogether.
We decided it wasn't worth 350+ to have the SW lock on our 2000 v70, given (a) it could break again at any time, and (b) our keys are chipped.

Good luck, and thanks to mom for the great tutorial and sacrificial dissection!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/4pvthkkbl8l2t ... 5.jpg?dl=0
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IMG_20150216_204055.jpg

98T5
Posts: 320
Joined: 11 August 2007
Year and Model: V70T5,98' / 940,93'
Location: Texas

Post by 98T5 »

I like this last idea above of drilling out the guts of the locking collar and just not have a steering lock since my car is a 91 and not worth stealing. but if drilling out the guts, will that damage the rod that goes thru to the ignition switch? if not, this is the way I'm going. :wink:
98’ S70 T5 Turbo Manual - Midnight
01' S60 T5 Turbo- Brandy
98' V70 T5 Turbo - Swifty
93’ 244 n/a - Mr.Chill
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cn90
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Post by cn90 »

Actually you don't have to do what HeyNeighbor did above (removing the tumbler from the car).
All you have to do is removing the bottom plate, some parts will fall out and that is it.
You do this (removing the bottom plate) with the ignition in place, about 30 minutes max.

I wrote it below...

DIY: 1998 S70 GLT Ignition Tumbler FREE Fix!

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=67531
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

Nascarfan28
Posts: 3
Joined: 13 December 2016
Year and Model: 2002 xc
Location: Illinois

Post by Nascarfan28 »

Hi well tryed to fix my 02 xc 70 no key turn. First did plate
Removal part fell out. Key still wouldn't turn. So drilled out pin and spring next to cable. Got it out. Key still won't turn.
Drilled all guts out just left with shaft with spring over it.
Still won't turn. Any suggestions on a way I can fix. Thanks

Nascarfan28
Posts: 3
Joined: 13 December 2016
Year and Model: 2002 xc
Location: Illinois

Post by Nascarfan28 »

And Im still able to get it to turn completely once and a while.
Not sure what's getting caught up in there

cn90
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Post by cn90 »

Nascarfan28 wrote:And Im still able to get it to turn completely once and a while.
Not sure what's getting caught up in there
You have 2 options:

1. NEW Tumbler, only buy from Volvo.
The problem with newer cars (such as 2000+ models), you will likely need the dealer to program the new key, which is a ripoff...? $200 or $300 or something like that.

2. COMPLETELY gut the device off the individual "tumblers" ---> the key will now free-wheel.
On this video below, you can see the individual tumblers at time 8:23:

2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

cn90 wrote:
Nascarfan28 wrote:And Im still able to get it to turn completely once and a while.
Not sure what's getting caught up in there
You have 2 options:

1. NEW Tumbler, only buy from Volvo.
The problem with newer cars (such as 2000+ models), you will likely need the dealer to program the new key, which is a ripoff...? $200 or $300 or something like that.

2. COMPLETELY gut the device off the individual "tumblers" ---> the key will now free-wheel.
On this video below, you can see the individual tumblers at time 8:23:

Just put the new key on the ring with the old key.

The old key enables the immobilizer, the new key turns the tumbler!
Empty Nester
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Nascarfan28
Posts: 3
Joined: 13 December 2016
Year and Model: 2002 xc
Location: Illinois

Post by Nascarfan28 »

Hi guys thanks for the help. So I took out tumbler. Saw stuck
Wafers as soon as I pulled it. So removed. File and cleaned tumbler. Most of the wafers were worn. I took best one. And
Put it back in something to hold key from falling out. Put it back in car that worked awesome. Still need key to turn. Then
Ran into prob would go outa park. So cleaned cable by shifter.
Found that if you spin plastic clip for shifter lock cable ,it
Will move clip farther to end of cable. Making it not engage
When you turn key. So don't spin cylinder when clip is inserted
Or make sure cable isn't pulled away from clip or it won't
Engage far enough. Thanks for the help guys. Learned a lot

pio
Posts: 4
Joined: 18 November 2024
Year and Model: Volvo V40 1998 1.8 p
Location: Poland

Post by pio »

Nascarfan28 wrote: 17 Dec 2016, 09:23 Then
Ran into prob would go outa park. So cleaned cable by shifter.
Found that if you spin plastic clip for shifter lock cable ,it
Will move clip farther to end of cable. Making it not engage
When you turn key. So don't spin cylinder when clip is inserted
Or make sure cable isn't pulled away from clip or it won't
Engage far enough. Thanks for the help guys. Learned a lot
Hi,

I know it's an old thread but Im going to repair my ignition lock and im worried about that gearbox cable but cant understand anything from what you saying here.

What plastic clip? The cable goes into cylinder lock and to disconnect it you just turn key to position 1 or 2 and squeeze cable connector and pull it out.

Reconnecting should be just the same, excuse me but what do you mean by 'spin plastic clip' or 'dont spin cylinder when the clip is inserted' what clip do you mean?

Thx

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