98 V70 Tie Rods - replace

Post by **98v70dad** » 14 Dec 2015, 08:42

I think my inner tie rods are bad. They are originals and the car has close to 140,000 miles on it. Outers are probably good because they were replaced about 5 years ago and all the slop seems to be under the accordion boot when I wiggle the front wheels. I may replace both since they seem to be fairly inexpensive parts.

How hard is this job compared say to replacing shocks or struts? I think the hardest part would be keeping the inners from rotating when removing/replacing. I watched rspi's video and that looks like the part I would have the most trouble with based on my tools and work area. My driveway is sloped and I'm always afraid that the car will fall off the jacks when I'm torquing something pretty hard.

What is the good brand to buy?

Post by **RussB** » 14 Dec 2015, 08:52

Assuming your inners are bad and the outers are 5 or-so years old, I would (and have) replaced both sets along with new bellows.

I went with Meyle rods. You'll need an alignment after, so think out this repair. If there are more worn parts, do them all at once

Post by **theWIFES_S70** » 14 Dec 2015, 09:49

I also went with the Meyle inner and outers, too. They seem great. (My inners were VERY floppy, too!) I have changed three of them so far and cracking the inner tie rod loose has not taken a great deal of force in any case. And installing new inners is the reverse of install (and there is no specification about how hard to torque the inner tie rod down); you just clean, threadlock, and tighten to the best of your ability! So I don't think you will be exerting a great I amount of torque doing this job. But I would be wary about doing anything on a sloped driveway! So please be careful!

Post by **cn90** » 14 Dec 2015, 10:19

Whatever you do, jackstand only.

Jack + sloped driveway = injury or death.

Just find a place to counter hold the steering rack then undo the inner tie rod. A floor jack pushing on the wrench may help undo the tierod (usually on very tight).

Post by **kahl** » 14 Dec 2015, 11:08

The job is really simple. The last time I replaced inner and outers I did not seperate the inner from the outers. I just removed the joint from the spindal then from the rack. I then measured to get the new close to the old. The alignment shop then got it perfect. I know you do your research but make sure you know what rack you have when ordering the tie rods. The boots I got came with tie wraps that worked great.
I used a 12" pipe wrench to remove and install the inner to the rack.

Post by **98v70dad** » 14 Dec 2015, 11:37

cn90 wrote:Whatever you do, jackstand only.

Jack + sloped driveway = injury or death.

Just find a place to counter hold the steering rack then undo the inner tie rod. A floor jack pushing on the wrench may help undo the tierod (usually on very tight).

I guess I misspoke there. I always use jack stands but referred to them as jacks in the post (my mistake). My driveway slopes left to right and when the car is up on the jack stands it is a little wobbly when I have to lean into a wrench to either tighten or loosen a bolt.

As a safety I always put the removed tire/wheel aft of the jack stand under the frame to catch the car if a stand slips or fails. I think this is good practice and always do it if I have the room to work.

Post by **erikv11** » 14 Dec 2015, 11:46

I only put TRW tie rods on my P80 cars. Inner or outer. Never had to change one of those again (unlike the cheapie $12 ones I bought as a greenhorn).

I think you have covered the rest of the front end already but that's good advice, to at this time take care of anything that might possibly affect alignment. E.g. there is no good reason to get an alignment after strut work but many people do for peace of mind; are spring seats and strut bearings all OK?

Post by **98v70dad** » 14 Dec 2015, 11:47

kahl wrote:The job is really simple. The last time I replaced inner and outers I did not seperate the inner from the outers. I just removed the joint from the spindal then from the rack. I then measured to get the new close to the old. The alignment shop then got it perfect. I know you do your research but make sure you know what rack you have when ordering the tie rods. The boots I got came with tie wraps that worked great.
I used a 12" pipe wrench to remove and install the inner to the rack.

I just started researching it a bit. I had noticed in some of the old posts that getting the right parts together is important and fairly easy to screw up. So that's the first thing I'll work out. I had already decided to inner and outer together because I think it will be easier, not much more expensive and also easier to get approximately aligned.

I plan to do the replacement after the holidays. My tires aren't wearing unevenly, but I get a front end wobble at about 50 mph and again at 70 mph. It may have more to do with the wheel balance, but when I was doing the timing belt and had the car up on jack stands I grabbed the wheel and noticed some slop and movement inside the rubber boot.

My car needs the following right now: (possibly planning 1 and 2 together due to the access and dirt involved).

1) 4 wheel brake overhaul - brakes are fine but its time
2) tie rod replace
3) forward and aft hydraulic engine mounts
4) headliner - may never happen
5) repair cloth seat covers - may never happen

Post by **98v70dad** » 14 Dec 2015, 19:50

erikv11 wrote:I only put TRW tie rods on my P80 cars. Inner or outer. Never had to change one of those again (unlike the cheapie $12 ones I bought as a greenhorn).

I think you have covered the rest of the front end already but that's good advice, to at this time take care of anything that might possibly affect alignment. E.g. there is no good reason to get an alignment after strut work but many people do for peace of mind; are spring seats and strut bearings all OK?

I've done the front struts from the bottom attach point all the way up to the top nut. I didn't re-use anything regardless of condition. I know this is wasteful of money but it is very efficient for saving me time and I have very little spare time. So far this has been the cheapest car I've ever owned and that goes all the way back to the 70s and includes all the new OEM parts I've put into it. If you valued the car by the hours I've put in its the most expensive.

I also replaced the control arms with new ones while I was at it. All parts are original manufacturer. It cost me a good bit but the car rides like I just bought it EXCEPT for the wobble that shows up at high speeds. The two ladies who drove it before I got it beat the wheels square by driving over curbs. They're actually not too bad in the front. I put the square ones in the back but it keeps me from being able to rotate the tires. New wheels (even used ones) cost too much...I'll probably just keep using the old ones.

I'm kind of ignorant of what else up front that may be a common candidate for replacement up in the front end. I wouldn't expect that the part that looks like a big wishbone would wear out (steering knuckle?) but I don't know. What else may need an update?