Sheared water pump bolt

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 13 Feb 2019, 20:18

Can you get a nut started on the broken bolt? You might be able to bond a nut to the broken bolt with permanent Loctite (Red) or JB Weld, then turn the bolt out.

Post by **cn90** » 13 Feb 2019, 21:00

When the broken stud is protruding out, all you need is vise-grip pliers and it is out.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 13 Feb 2019, 21:23

cn90 wrote: ↑13 Feb 2019, 21:00 When the broken stud is protruding out, all you need is vise-grip pliers and it is out.

If there is enough space to get a pair of vise-grips on it. He stated the bolt was behind the "unibody". I'm assuming he is saying there is not much space to work in. Hence his comment about pulling the engine.

If he had a view of the bolt head-on and he could get one thread of a nut started, he could thermal weld the nut on. Then wrench it out.

callahanoffroad · Post by **callahanoffroad** » 14 Feb 2019, 06:59

RickHaleParker wrote: ↑13 Feb 2019, 20:18 Can you get a nut started on the broken bolt? You might be able to bond a nut to the broken bolt with permanent Loctite (Red) or JB Weld, then turn the bolt out.

That's actually the solution I came to! But I already closed the project up for the time being. Every day my car doesn't run is $150 I'm not making from driving.

So it's been driving for two solid days with no leaks. About 260 miles. Currently tracing down the cause of the rough idle. Replaced the plugs, that helped a bit. Then I suspected the cap and rotor. Cleaned the contacts and that helped a lot. So I ordered a new cap and rotor. Attached is a picture of the old rotor before I cleaned it.

If it's not that then I'll have to triple check the mechanical timing by hand again.

Post by **abscate** » 14 Feb 2019, 08:36

That looks pretty torched. I would put new one on, and get a real Bosch and cry once....

callahanoffroad · Post by **callahanoffroad** » 15 Feb 2019, 05:54

abscate wrote: ↑14 Feb 2019, 08:36 That looks pretty torched. I would put new one on, and get a real Bosch and cry once....

Yep that's exactly what I did.

Still idling a little rough, so now I get to check the mechanical timing again this weekend. Maybe I got it off a tooth.

It's probably described by the word "racing" it's like the engine is excited and wants to review up. Then there's an occasional light stumble. So it overall ends up being lightly off balance and vibrating. Maybe I'll post a video tonight. Everyone loves s YouTube video of an engine idling....

Knowprblm 97 · Post by **Knowprblm 97** » 14 Apr 2021, 18:30

Volvo 850 1994 n/a. Snapped water pump bolt flush to the head. Drilling bolt left oval hole as drill bit wandered during drilling. I'm left with oval shaped hole where the bolt was. What is the best way to repair? Steel putty or weld

Post by **Sveedy** » 14 Apr 2021, 20:22

Might be helicore time if you need that bolt. I believe OP just left his out.

Post by **abscate** » 15 Apr 2021, 02:17

I think I would JB weld it, the drill and tap the JB weld for the M6 bolt. Some recently did this successfully here

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 15 Apr 2021, 04:44

abscate wrote: ↑15 Apr 2021, 02:17 I think I would JB weld it, the drill and tap the JB weld for the M6 bolt. Some recently did this successfully here

It can be done with out a drill and tap.

1. Find a bolt that fits in the hole.
2. Dip the bolt in molten wax and let it cool.
3. Push JB Weld in the hole.
4. Put the bolt in the hole.
5. Wipe off excess.
6. Let it set up for 10 minutes or so.
7. Clean it up with a rag damped with Acetone. Damp not wet.
8. Let the JB Weld fully cure.
9. Wrench the bolt out.

The wax keeps the JB Weld from bonding to the bolt and the bolt form the new threads.

Use the original long cure. Is much stronger than the quick cure.
Keep in mind the surface needs to be clean, squeaky clean, or the JB Weld will not bond to the metal in the hole.

Sheared water pump bolt

Re: Sheared water pump bolt