06 S60R BCM-0095 and other codes, Anti-skid disabled

[erikv11]

Erie doesn't have one right now but (a) I haven't pulled it yet and (b) I'll look around for a part-out, thanks for the tips.

[erikv11]

several useful points ...

I've been reading up in BG delete, may do that until I can find a good used BG. Couple questions though

(1) The descriptions I have found seem less complete regarding removing the fore-aft driveshaft . Do I need t drop the exhaust to do that?

(2) Does anything need to be capped off at the rear, or just pull the drive shaft (after marking it with a punch or something)?

(3) If the collar is "stuck" in the trans like it usually is, do I really need to remove the collar and blue-loctite it back in?

[Rvolvos]

I can perhaps answer your question regarding 3) I read a post on the Volvo XC forum, messaged the original poster. He told me if stuck leave it it won’t come out.
I have a C30 with a M66 AWD gearbox. I wanted to remove the bg. No AWD conversion plan.
To be sure a made a simple retaining bracket. See attached picture.
Driving the car for half a year without a problem. Hope it helps.

[- Pete -]

several useful points ...

I've been reading up in BG delete, may do that until I can find a good used BG. Couple questions though

(1) The descriptions I have found seem less complete regarding removing the fore-aft driveshaft . Do I need t drop the exhaust to do that?

(2) Does anything need to be capped off at the rear, or just pull the drive shaft (after marking it with a punch or something)?

(3) If the collar is "stuck" in the trans like it usually is, do I really need to remove the collar and blue-loctite it back in?

1. You can remove exhaust from DP back, but there is no need to do this. If you have space, you can lower the tailpipe end from its rubber retainers a bit, but even this isn’t mandatory. You can get the driveshaft out without moving the exhaust at all. Freeing the front and rear CV joints free from the BG flange & oscillation damper can be a defeating sort of humiliation, depending on how much rust is present. The instructions in ViDA say to use a bolt to push the CVJ out of the flange from the opposite side. (I’ve never done it this way.) I can post them if you’d like. Will need to fire up my diesel powered laptop to do so though.

2. There is no need to mark which bolts went here and there/which holes line up. The driveshaft is balanced without the flanges on either end present so it doesn’t matter. Far as capping, its up to you how you want to protect your oscillation damper. If it was me I’d give it some smearing of something and then seal it up so it doesn’t have a nice collection of adhered s*** waiting for you to come find it when you go to reinstall the driveshaft. No doubt, you will have some erroneous messages being populated with fuse in the REM.

3. You will most certainly need to pull the collar sleeve if you ever plan to have functional RWD again. For temporary FWD use though, if it doesn’t fall out on its own I’d just leave it. You never know, from all the rattling Of failed splines it may just slide right out.

[erikv11]

Everything is apart. Prop shaft only disconnected at the front so far, that thing was the tricky part.

Diagnosis is stripped angle gear input shaft, the collar finally worked loose after several years of FWD-only and started rattling on the surface of the AG input shaft. I can replicate the bad sound exactly by spinning the collar on the stripped out AG shaft.

Note: on disassembly, the collar sleeve came out with the angle gear. So not stuck in the transmission at all. Right now I can easily insert the collar in and out of the transmission. I checked carefully however and the trans output splines look good, the collar splines on the trans side look perfect can still see machine marks.

Here are some pictures, would appreciate any observations:
.

AG_input_shaft_splines

Collar_outside

Collar_AG_side

Collar_trans_side

Trans_output1

Trans_output2

My current plan is to not replace the AG at this time, but reassemble as FWD.

If I go to FWD do I need a new collar sleeve at this time or not? The old one seems in excellent condition e.g. on sealing surfaces but I am puzzled that I can so easily insert/remove it to/from the trans. If I can use this collar the I would just replace all axle-related seals and put it back together.

Will fix a weepy biscuit cooler seal too while I'm down there. Turbo oil return line is bone dry so I'm leaving it alone. Will need to wrestle the °*##‡̂$@ prop shaft out of the rear.

[- Pete -]

I see no reason to replace the collar sleeve with a new one until you can mate up a bevel gear to receive power from it. I would definitely replace that trans/collar sleeve seal though.

One thing you can do very economically to regain RWD is to weld the collar sleeve to the BG input shaft. Just a suggestion. Cheap as in you wouldn’t need a new collar sleeve & you could continue use to use your old bevel gear, you’d just need to drill some holes and ensure the collar sleeve is concentrically welded.

Edit: front driveshaft CVJ is the easy one, so might need your Thomas the train books for the rear. For clarification, I’ve always used a bolt to “push” the CVJ out of the flanges. I’ve never threaded one into the existing threads to do this, however. By using a bolt in one of the 2 unthreaded holes I’ve always been able to pop the CVJ’s loose using a pry bar to exert force on this bolt.

What's a biscuit cooler?

Also, post the numbers in your BG extrusion and/or actual part number. I’ll keep my eye out for one if you go that route (used working BG).

2 edits total.

[erikv11]

Shaft is out, was easy with the right tool finally. Remove the DEM first (bot not the modules), then use pinpoint longish air hammer bit on a socket head cap screw inserted into one of the unthreaded holes, broke loose in about 40 seconds being careful to not hit the DEM mounting area. It did get a couple days of penetrating oil, too.

By "biscuit cooler" I mean the little external oil cooler mounted on the oil pan.

I'm still not clear on this part for assembly: the collar sleeve slides fairly easily back and forth on the trans output shaft. Is that going to be fine as long as I put in something to retain the sleeve like by using the hose clamps method or the plate method up above by Rvolvos?