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2006 Volvo S60 AWD - turbo replacement

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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justanotherhumanoid
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Re: 2006 Volvo S60 AWD - turbo replacement

Post by justanotherhumanoid »

Oh yeah, also yes, those snap ring pliers look like they'd be up to the task, but maybe just. I also just grabbed a set off amazon, but they were cheap and annoying to use (tips were weak and kept bending, spread was barely big enough). You might want to buy or borrow a really large one with a 90degree bend for the really big ring. I think the ones I used were 9".

Some handy pics/videos of the rebuild process... definitely DIY-able, also G-pop will send instructions with the kit:



2006 S60 2.5T AWD - Build Log
do88 intercooler, all aluminum radiator, XC90 aux transmission cooler, magnefine ATF filter, Snabb intake elbow & throttle body pipes, custom oval exhaust, rebuilt 16T swap, 17x8" team dynamics pro race 1.2 wheels, ipd sway bars, R brake swap, Hilton tune, sunroof shade that slides open when I step on the gas and closes when I stand on the brakes.

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Post by abscate »

Snap ring pliers are on of those tools that cheap doesn’t pay

Channelock is a good brand. Made in Erie PA
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Post by firstv70volvo »

notny41 wrote: 02 Dec 2021, 21:34 What's the alternative to silicone? Plastic? Or rubber I suppose. I have some clear vinyl tubing I could use - I'm just wondering if that would get brittle over time too? It is quite flexible right now, but that old hose that came off cracked in about 5 different places. I think it cracked as I was pulling hoses off the breather box, but nevertheless...
I used high temp, crack and chemical resistant PFA tubing for the small PCV hose. Matched the 3mm ID of the original hose because I believe this hose ID is used for flow restriction between the intake manifold and crankcase. The length of the PFA tubing goes from fitting to fitting with 4mm ID rubber hose ends used to join the 5mm OD of the PFA tube to the fittings. Volvo also sells this tube with the banjo fitting end. The PFA tubing isn't cheap but you don't need too much of it and still much cheaper than the Volvo part.

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/12946/P ... cce558352d

https://www.mcmaster.com/tubing/system- ... chemicals/
Manifold to elbow PFA tubing.jpg

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Post by notny41 »

Ok thanks everyone! I had some thick-wall black rubber vacuum tubing laying around from a different project so I ended up using that and just put a couple worm-gear hose clamps on it to keep it on. I was able to thread the banjo fitting in first try - to my complete amazement, but I agree that you should put that banjo bolt on the intake manifold before installing the manifold to the head - otherwise there's just no f-ing way you are getting a wrench on it (I even have a stubby ratchet wrench and still no chance of getting it on - had to pull the intake manifold back off again to tighten the banjo bolt). I haven't started it up yet since putting it back together. I don't know if I feel like doing another marathon fix on this thing if it's still smoking like a chimney. I may just advertise it for $300 and if noone buys it, I'd probably just junk it at that point. I only paid $1k for it and we've used it for about 5 years. I think I got my money's worth out of it. I knew for sure it needed PCV attention after doing the glove-test and the fix for that was an inexpensive enough college-try for me (I got the REIN crankcase breather hose for $20 off amazon and the manifold gasket for $5). But if it turns out to also need turbo work, I don't think I feel like investing more money and scraping up the knuckles again...

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Post by notny41 »

Well, I have an update. I finally pushed the car back out of the garage and started it up. The good news is that now the glove tests passed and it is sucking the air out of the glove instead of inflating it. The bad news is it didn't seem to make any difference on the smoke that it is producing. So I still think it is the turbo. Now I am just debating if I want to deal with that... Ugh... My neighbor suggested that maybe there is just a bunch of oil still in the exhaust system that needs to be burnt up. I kind of doubt that though...

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Post by abscate »

Pull the bottom hose of the intercooler and see how greasy it looks inside. Use the Volvo clamps to reinstall, dont cheap out there.
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Post by notny41 »

how long does it take joe average mechanic to take the turbocharger out of a 2006 S60 AWD?

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Post by jonesg »

notny41 wrote: 10 Dec 2021, 18:31 how long does it take joe average mechanic to take the turbocharger out of a 2006 S60 AWD?
by the book it requires awd gearbox removal which means passenger side drive shaft removal.
6 hour labor, or work around the gearbox and see if you can do it in less than 6 hrs.

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Post by abscate »

Your disconnects are

Remove heat shields from exhaust system

Oil banjo, oil drain line ( tough clearance on all AWD)
Coolant banjos x2

You can hack these by leaving the hard lines on the turbo and working it up with the lines on,

As always, the exhaust bolts are the ones that will make or break this job. On my T5 FWD, they came off by hand after cracking, your mileage may vary.
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Post by notny41 »

do the "hard lines" consist of all four of these: Oil banjo, oil drain line, coolant banjos x2?

anyone know of a decent youtube vid of any of this?

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