Turn signal / Hazard switch issues

Post by **Sveedy** » 26 Jul 2026, 16:43

I'm having the intermittent turn signal problem where the turn signal will blink for maybe 3 or 4 times before cutting out. Happens both left and right. I read the write-up on repairing the unit by replacing the capacitor, but the info is a bit old ( gives a Radio Shack part # ).
This is what I've found. Does it look like what I need ? I'm not familiar with electronics generally, so any help is greatly appreciated.
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/turn- ... ights-fix/
https://www.mouser.com/en/ProductDetail ... RTag%3D%3D

Post by **volvolugnut** » 26 Jul 2026, 16:54

I have had some success replacing capacitors on electronic devices. The key is to get a new capacitor of the same specifications as the old one. Does the old capacitor have a number on it like 1K F? Did the Radio Shack reference have a capacitor spec?
Small capacitors are generally cheap enough to make replacement low risk.
volvolugnut

aeg · Post by **aeg** » 26 Jul 2026, 17:15

Hell, no! I found the writeup you're talking about where he replaces the radial capacitor with an axial type. That's just all wrong. See this thread for the right way to do it:

viewtopic.php?p=294213

But note that there are at least two variants of this module, with different capacitor values. The '98 V70GLT writeup claims 2.2uF/50V, 3.3uF/50V and 4.7uF/50V in that car. The '97 850GLT writeup says 1pcs 3.3uF/50V, 2pcs 10uF/50V, and 1pcs 33uF/63V in that car. It's not a mistake in the writeups, you can see in the pictures that the two boards are actually different. You might want to buy the full capacitor assortment, or else pop your module open before ordering to see which one you have.

Contrary to the second writeup, I would suspend the board in a small vise while working on it. I would flow a little fresh solder into the joints before trying to remove the old caps. And I would use a solder sucker instead of wick.

Post by **Sveedy** » 26 Jul 2026, 17:57

^ Thanks aeg ! I'd guess I have the '98 style as the car is a early '99. But I think I'll open the unit up and see what I can see first.
Of course mine doesn't look like either of those. Mine isn't the toggle type of switch.

Post by **volvolugnut** » 27 Jul 2026, 13:36

If you do not have a small pencil tip soldering iron, I suggest you get one. The big loop soldering irons may put too much heat into the board.
I have bought parts from Mouser.com with good experiences.
volvolugnut

Post by **abscate** » 28 Jul 2026, 04:01

Stick a junkyArd request in with robert for a hazard switch. I don’t think they fail often.

rrres · Post by **rrres** » 28 Jul 2026, 09:36

I've had this happen last week on my '99. Had the AC on high and turn signal would blink about 3-4 times before cutting out. If I turn off the AC, blinkers would start working properly again. I recharged the battery and problem solved.

Post by **scot850** » 28 Jul 2026, 14:05

Does that mean you have a charging issue or too many short trips not recharging the battery enough?

Neil.

Post by **Sveedy** » 29 Jul 2026, 14:32

rrres wrote: 28 Jul 2026, 09:36 I've had this happen last week on my '99. Had the AC on high and turn signal would blink about 3-4 times before cutting out. If I turn off the AC, blinkers would start working properly again. I recharged the battery and problem solved.

I checked this possibility out, and unfortunately not the problem.
My plan as of now is to wait till I can find a good used unit before taking mine out and apart. Intermittent is better than nothing at all.

Post by **abscate** » 30 Jul 2026, 04:06

I found my hazard switch from Shagg 1999 v70, last tested after I removed a Tesla from circulation. Do you need?