I think what he meant was that you can't solely switch flanges. The flange obviously needs to match the downpipe, so a couple of things would need changing, not just the flange.

Kind of depends on the condition of the rest of the car, how much you can do yourself, and how long you plan to keep it. It's getting hard to find low millage engines in salvage yards, but if you could find one, that would be the most economical / easiest route. If the rest of the car is in good con...

I'd take the collective silence as " yes ", you have covered all of the bases.
In similar cases, I have sprayed the underside with a hose to see if that stops the noise temporarily. Might help isolate the issue.

Yeah, a water bottle is better. More control than with a garden hose
Some soap in the water bottle would also help. Component by component with bouncing in between.

You're going to have to remove the pipe to get good access to the CBV hose on the turbo. You want all of those turbo hoses good and tight anyway, so while you're driving along having a good time, when you hit boost, something doesn't pop off.

You can kind of do both. Around here they will give you the same money for the car, whether it's missing parts or not. Doesn't even matter if if has wheels. Before I decided to keep the $100 V70, I was going to pull the rear tail lights, wheels, and the flip down dog divider that I hadn't seen befor...

Not today, but Sunday. On my way to re-assembling the car from the manual swap I decided to do the preventative maintenance items while I had the suspension off. So did timing belt, water pump, aux belt, spark plugs, wires, rotor and cap. So 1 day diversion from putting the car back on the ground, ...

I have an older version of the ABN type. I've used them a few times with no issues. The only thing I did was changed the washer under the nut to a bronze one. Thought it might rotate more smoothly. Totally unnecessary but what the hell....

Grantkat wrote: ↑09 Jan 2025, 16:26 can it be accessed from underneath?

I don't think so, but it might depend on how the clamp is rotated. You just have to feel around the end of that pipe, and you should feel the clamp. I get to it from up top with a long 1/4" extension.

Removing the turbo inlet pipe clamp can be a royal pain. However when you go to reinstall it, orient the hose clamp so that it is facing upward, and you will be able to easily remove and reinstall it in the future from up top with a long 1/4" extension.