Volvo help, forum + news for all models

Let us not forget there is a engine block drain as well as the radiator drain cock.

Why not put the OEM air box back?

Simple stuff first. Open your glovebox while driving. My latch has been making a squeaking noise over bumps! Some tape on latch bar quieted that, then tackle the dreaded dash bolts.

Once had a loose valve core on the A/C. Used a pair of forceps to reach down into the stem and tighten.

The Devil is in the details......

Who is the artist on this?

FCP has video showing cross nut position.

On my '94 it is for a tube belonging to the air pump system.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=78097

clogged core, bad thermostat, blend door issue?

Was this a split boot type replacement?

To make it easier for answer:
Good morning all,

Who could provide me with a disassembly instructions for a left rear light unit on a V60 from 2011, it's really urgent. I was able to dismantle a part but I can't get it out, have a notice, thank you for your help.

Flame trap!

Do the glove test. Lurk for that! Beautiful looking photos also.

Going to add that it looks like base for a plug and play device.

The thermo switch in lock actuator. Do the search on this site.

Hydroplaning?

But you are gaining a reputation....now keep at it!

I have my owners manual from the '94. Little oily though

Oh no you can't! There is not a day goes by when I don't check to see if Abscate has posted a new comment on any thread to see if it is funny! I am waiting to see the day when you have commented on all the posts that come up on my list since I last logged on. You have darn near come close recently! ...

Does the middle rib in picture have a piece snipped out of it?

If I remember, from last time I had a manual, in PA they want the parking brake to hold with a manual transmission. Now we are down to 48 states to check!

Funny. Should have also mentioned to use it well in advance of your intention and nor does it give you the right to merge into traffic just because you had it on!

I had this issue once on my '94 850. I went under the drivers dash and found a bundle of wires that had worn thru a wrapping and the wire sheathing and the exposed wires were touching a steel cross member. Isolated and wrapped each exposed wire and all has been good since.

Select message or type your own
(Collin knows nothing)

If they are anything like the 850 or S70 it may have the four drain tubes for cowl under the wipers and one for A/C drain. Drivers side bottom cowl tube ( which is under the fuse box, a hint? maybe?) may clog and soak the carpet.

You can attach to a capped one on the vacuum tree (which is hollow and has a rubber gasket at base) and seal the broken hole.

All tires have a DOT date code stamp into the sidewall. The last 4 numbers. Week and year.

Definitely list the treadwear, traction, and temp grade of the tire brand.

Because drinking mai tais, a pair of shorts, standing next to a boat, and making small talk always makes it feel warmer out! Oh yeah!

Man I loved those wagons. Beautiful... I had same color '89 with a chrome roof rack. Wicked solid car, doors closed with a nice thud without slamming it, and it saved my life once.

The mighty Serb strikes again!

Yup was thinking the same thing. ATP 205 helps my '94 850 with over 300,000 stop puffing some blue smoke. $10.00 Amazon

There you go Abs!!! I got a chuckle at that one!

Did not even need to swap the pulley as FCP recommended. Their special tool ( $7 CTA 8089 socket) would not have worked anyway. I grabbed a free loaner pulley tool kit from local Autozone but did not need to use that either as the FCP reman Bosch alternator had the same size pulley on it as my origi...

Yes they look good at both!! And I don't mind the rain, love to play soccer in it. Feels better on the knees!!

Was too happy to check but I will go out and check right now for you! And yes it is raining again.

OK everyone! I big thank you to misha with the knowledge and advice. After a few hours a day, after work, after brain clearing jogs, and in two days of rain, I have replaced alternator and fired her up today. No flickering dash lights. Consider this a fix! Hot damn! Thanks again misha! Nice directio...

Likely dripped down from the top which most likely came from, as already stated, the oil filler cap gasket. It gets brittle and should get replaced regularly.

Hey misha! I measured 7.5 volts on the thin wire with key pos II. Not sure if that means anything. FCEuro alternator is being shipped here.
Thanks again.
Carl

Yes you may be correct. I hear a grinding, growling noise somewhere near the serpentine belt for a short time at start up.

This sounds like a doable plan to check this further.

So I could now be hunting for an issue with the thin wire? I am not good at tracing electrical shorts, this is getting deeper down the hole!

It looks more like the reflection from the bright adjacent warning light is lighting the battery warning light. But the battery light looks very dim compared to the one next to it. Where are you leading me with this idea?

Thank you. Thinking about tossing a regulator at it since that seems easier than yanking the alternator.

Today the battery was 12.2 before starting. The B+ and alternator housing was 11.45 as was the battery 11.45 while running.

Two days of doing nothing to car, the battery was 12.2 with engine off. Started car and battery was 11.5 while engine running. I am leaning towards alternator issue.

I have not checked the voltage output yet.
Thanks for your idea/ information.

Yes I thought the same. Tried jiggling the key in ignition several times, no difference.

Ok board members, I got one for you... Hopped in my 850 this morning and started off to work. Less than mile and all the warning lights and headlights start to flicker. Turn around and hop in another car. This afternoon the car fires up, the air pump sounded muffled compared to the usual wind up, al...

Just racked up 1000 miles round trip to hike up Mt Washington, NH. The '98 S70. Checked fluids, checked pressures on snow tires, checked the spare ( people forget that thing) and off we went. No issues.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F8MJW8W/ref=dp_cerb_3 Capacitor type. Used several times on commercial delivery trucks and my car. Most batteries have a little life left in them giving this thing a super burst of a jolt to fire up the vehicles. Should last twenty some years and no need to keep it charg...

"isqalmlst".......I would try to scrabble the living daylights out of that one on the college smarty!!

Probably still sore from his Scrabble beat down

Did search on MVS to see what the code was, this among others came up.
viewtopic.php?t=62021

Well I'm ok without a list of thanks, thumbs, smileys and whatever else is out there. Enjoy that car Sveedy.

https://www.midwest-abs.com/Troubleshooting.php
Matty Moo on this site is the man!!

Yes. Reset the light and see if she spits again, if ever.

Update! After a few emails, Ivan from Newparts/Eeuroparts apologized and got the ball rolling and I have received the credit.

Nine days and still looking for a refund since they billed for a canceled order.

Yeah well...newparts took my money before telling me they did not have the part as advertised on eeuroparts as in stock. We shall see how long it takes for credit to appear. A week and counting.

Have noticed several negative reviews about newparts.com on Yelp.

I tried to get interior door light ($25) they listed in stock but then got response they did not have in stock and a few basic maintenance items. Bailed on whole order. Still have not seen credit after a week.

Are we still trusting/using Eeuroparts after they are being backed by Newparts.com?

Called the vacuum tree

Could be the filler neck retaining sleeve or the rubber seal under neath that.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 70-3531428

Just replaced a cv boot today on the 98 S70 GLT. Used the Volvo kit which had Ford grease in the box go figure. Used two screw drivers to force the clamp together then used a similar oetiker tool to pinch. Don't forget to burp any air out of boot before you pinch by sliding a screwdriver under the e...

Whining for a few seconds after start up is what it should do. It winds up then winds down and stops. Now if the little guy is squealing or screeching or throws a code then you are having issues.

Sounds like someone else is also watching SMA you tube videos! He uses the bulb trick to check his customers wiring.

I have always used Mobile 1 in the my 850 and S70. Swapping out 10 or 11 qts thru the cooling line process.

I think mine is behind right side kick panel, passenger side.

Ok, Who dropped their car off at Scotty's house in Houston?

The last couple times I ordered parts from FCP the delivery originated from different parts of the USA.

Super glue, clear nail polish, or windshield repair kit.

I bet you could rig up something with this.
https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/l ... e/449947_0

Good. Horrendous quality. They are helping to kill Chrylser and the Jeep brand. Adios!

Anyone else get the email stating eEuro was on verge of closing last week but Newparts, Inc stepped in?

Have you checked the left front axle and hub area?

Rust to rust and the tailless monkey comments made reading all four pages of this topic worth it!

The anchor is hollow so the splines of the flat bolt head are only held in place by a few millimeters of the anchor. I stuck my drill right thru the spring and was able to drill a hole at an angle into the flat head bolt and put something into the hole to prevent the bolt rotating while I turned the...

Drill baby drill! right thru the flat part of the bolt head....because when you get that nut off with heat you will not be able to install the nut on the bolt as I still believe the splines (very similar to the windshield wiper arms) are stripped and it will keep spinning in the socket.

Are you sure do not have this holding the spring down? https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 35#fitment

The bolt on your spring anchor has splines on the head where it rests in the anchor. If the nut and bolt are spinning, they are stripped. I drilled at an angle into the bolt head and then lodged a something into the hole to keep the bolt from spinning. Spring anchor which comes with a new bolt. $13 ...

My 850 had a Starla muffler put on two years ago for inspection. It is now rusted through and being replaced for this year's inspection.

P0115- Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor

Places like Autozone will test your alternator on the car for free.

Ok....or near any of the barriers built in '94 under President Clinton. Go figure.

What did Aamco do?

Just go to Robert's you tube channel.
https://www.youtube.com/user/RSpi007

Would also check brake rotors.

Big and long zip ties are good for the passage

I wish they had kept the window switch in same spot a few more years. After driving the 850 I tend to reach for the wrong spot with the wrong hand when I hop in the S70!

my 850 had a plastic strap when it broke I put two zip ties thru the slots. Canister hooks on a little shelf. My S70 might have the strap and a small bolt helping to secure it to the shelf.

Son of a ........you were in PA again!!!!
Oh and to fit the post, I washed and waxed the '94 today

I think those are power steering lines.

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/v ... 012007.jpg
The Thule 400 XT base is what our model uses. Then can customize the bar lengths

Take a look at the topic on Auction car '95 850 viewtopic.php?p=507743
There is a picture of the roof rack in the trunk. You can clearly see the base foot bracket that goes between the door.

I have to say no. The only screw on mine it to clamp between a rubber rack base on roof and a bracket that slides in the door jam at the alignment hole.

Need to see where the grease is coming from. If boot is still good it may be coming from loose clamps, you may be able to tighten a little.

Either the HVAC drain is clogged or the heater core is leaking which sometimes tends to leave a film on window.

Do you actually have the petcock in the picture? It appears to be missing some rubber seals which may be easier to get at a hardware store.

Email received! I could use the distraction, if no one else volunteers.

What is involved? Center Valley, Pa. Still want to meet you in person. Sent you an email last time you went thru Allentown and Reading area but no response.

Sell your eyeballs.....[funny]

Been so long since I installed. I know I used crossovers in front. Put tweeter in dash spot and bass/ mid in front door spot. Since the rear door and back were on same line I guess it was a four speaker amp.

I use a Thule rack for a 55 lb canoe. Also had two bikes and a Thule box up there. No issues. The holes above doors line up with a vinyl coated protrusion on the load bar feet. Thule made the Volvo branded ones.

Carpeting easily pulls up to access the heater core and other goodies. Then I snaked it thru the carpet cut out for the rear hvac vents. Have a look under the seat you see plenty of opportunities for spots.

I ran my rca cables under the carpet to the amp. Crutchfield supplies connectors that enable you to plug into existing harness thus no need to run speaker wires. Rear door and back speakers were on same line.

That is my game plan, mess with relay and look for vac leaks. Quite the informational topic. Detailed explanation of system function, electrical tech, past posts, philosophy, and punctuation excitement. All from some the heavy hitters on MVS.

Also sounds reasonable. I was fairly sure I have never heard either of the car's pumps come on after the initial start up phase. The occasional code must have made me keen on listening for it. Thanks.

Sort of looks like that rear tire is working hard and kicking up some dust.

That makes sense. Good place to start poking around, Thanks!

Hello,
Any theories on why the air pump would run for several seconds at a stop light or a similar situation on fully warmed up vehicle?
P0410 occasionally after it would run but no codes last couple days.
Thanks.

Nice! Pictures too.

I still believe it is part of hvac ducting inside the cabin compartment. Looks similar to the vents that direct air to rear seats in my cars. They run along the tranny hump, under the carpet. Could be a vent that is under dash also.

I keep getting something called Air Vent Hose Pipe 8645401 but no location.

I 'm guessing HVAC duct under the carpet of a seat.

Into the radiator cooler at top, out at the bottom. There are plenty of write-ups on changing by connecting to a clear hose, starting car for a few seconds to drain some, shut off, then add via the trans dipstick and repeat until it comes out clean red.

You must have finally sold those ladders because you're on a roll this weekend!!!!

As I stated earlier I went with the blue box but damn, even they could not get it right. The anti seize they applied missed all of the bleeder screw threads.

I hear ya! Before I installed the Volvo one I pulled the screw to inspect and found copper anti seize dabbed on the internal tip and nothing on the threads.

The FCP Cardone front caliper I bought in 2015 froze up on me this week. I order the Volvo one which is all they had. It shows up today, surprisingly fast for the free shipping option! I replace the Cardone one which is stamped Ate Volvo with the new one stamped Ate Volvo and is heavily clear coated...

There are only a few battery makers and they private label for everyone. East Penn Manufacturing in Berks County PA. is one of the largest.

Your commercial A/C guy has the gauges and I am sure he knows what the pressure should be. No worries

Look at those seats! Have to put on the good clothes to sit in those.

I would think ladders "from" Mexico would be at a premium right now.

Lemforder is my choice..... and from FCP Euro

I can only vouch for ATP as it stopped the blue wisps of smoke on acceleration after a long downhill.

Why not try a bottle of ATP-205? Nothing to lose now. I have seen it stop some leaks. Schuylkill Haven is 33 miles northwest of Reading and just south of America's oldest brewery.

Now hold on here! Abscate wants to save on parking fees by letting someone else drive his car? I'm only 45 minutes from Philly and if he brings those coffee grounds promised, I will drive him into Philly just to talk to the master/funny commentator.

Bo and Luke would not need no GPS Fo' sure y'all!

You have caught them twice it appears. I would list the dealer here and not go back.

I chose Lemforder and used Autozone free loaner tools on my 98.

Harry's Allentown just crushed their only 98. Hazelton has several. Considering the drive time there and back, the time to pull, the snow we are getting now, no good way to verify if good, $25 / hr sounds good as long as you don't have to pay NY taxes!

Seafoam is/was designed for two stroke marine engines in the '40's. With a little bit of marketing it is also now good for four strokes!
Go with something that has a PEA additive in it if really necessary.

Only used when car is parked so I think it does not matter on shoe however, you look to be be in need of springs and star nut adjuster. While in there might as well replace both cables also.

How about thawing groceries, other types of animals? And where is the O.P.?

Climbing Mt Washington, NH March 8-10. GPS has me going thru NYC. Can I have those coffee grounds ?

Poster had just joined MVS, was at a Starbucks, and had no money. I initially thought scam.

My Subarus were non-interference engines and had two timing belts. If they broke no biggie, Volvo not so much.

Johnny Tirekicker......There it is! Started laughing at that one.

You might want to check for the presence of combustion gases in the engine coolant.

I have routinely lubed the mast. The few times it would stop short, I would gently push the rest of the way in with no issues.

My two Volvo originals were leaking at same exact spots. Metal tubes to metal base.

I think we might need a better clarification of your "blown out the PCV" comment.

If it matters, I cut the end off the original core because I saw a what looked like a crack forming and running the length on inside of end cap. Turns out it was the base of a 1/2" high, end to end, squiggly plastic piece. Sort of like a lasagna noodle propped on its side. I would assume your part i...

This guy posted quality pictures of his trip home on MVS awhile ago. Don't remember the title.

No way!! It has to be the "Keep Betty away from the Ford Clinic"...... too funny.

The dreaded clacking sound when making turns! The cv joint is shot at that point.

Torn boots spray lots of grease all over, make sure it was trans fluid they saw leaking. There are axle seals on either side of the transmission where the axles goes into and that would be where trans fluid would come from.

JD Powers is nothing but an advertising company.

I almost hate to admit this, but I did the HVAC tape several years ago on the S70. You have to cut into strips and different shapes to avoid crinkling up when installed on the curved surface. Light output has not deteriorated since but is still not as great the 850.

Structural damage? Looks like someone was wrenching on that tube. Also appears to have a splice in that orange and black wire just below the tube.

FCP Euro shows three different part numbers for the 98 AWD V70 serp belt. You should confirm the fitment on their website.

To clear the four drain tubes, I usually grab my garden hose and try to force the debris out and sometimes squeeze the end of rubber tubes without getting splashed too much. Poking device also works. Two obvious ones on top of cowl, the other two drains are under the cowl. Lift cowl up for passenger...

You can pull the carpet back and remove plastic shields on either side to view the core which is behind the radio. This is easy to do and you will see wetness indicating replacement. Resistor and blower motor are under and behind glove box and knee bolster. Then make your decisions.

You should get inside the blower compartment and clean the debris out first. The debris maybe causing some of the screeching. Then look at the blower motor resistor and/ or the blower motor.

Definetly fix the obvious first, the broken vacuum line near the pcv at the intake. Then move on to other stuff.

URO is almost a curse word on here!

cycling on and off quickly is usually a sign of low refrigerant.

Definitely don't take that one off yet. As Misha pointed out hood could fly open. My safety latch was similar to yours and I forgot to fully close one day, hood lifted, stuck head out window to safely pull over. Ordered new one when I got home. Attach a piece of wire to pull on it, drape it thru the...

Find the engine ID stamp on motor:
B5234T 2.3 liter 20 valve turbo
B5252S 2.4 liter 10 valve n/a
B5254T 2.4 liter 20 valve turbo
B5254S 2.4liter 20 valve n/a

Increasingly I find myself reading posts just for your reply.

How could you forget maple syrup, eh?

Could be a grounding issue. Check connection for corrosion. Disconnect and reconnect a few times sometimes cleans the connectors.

That is the upper transmission line going to radiator to cool the fluid. O-ring in connection could be bad. Dirty ATF would like motor oil. Zip tie on top of metal clamp as security blanket.

As stated before there are four below the windshield, two on top of cowl and two underneath. The drivers side one sits under the fuse box.

Looks like metal bumper is pushed back on driver's side.

How old is the son?

Pins are push fit. Order new brake hardware. Old ones are going to be beat to hell when they finally come out.

Annnnnnnd the kid is out with a mic drop. BAM!

Advertisement quality shots!

Spray a cloth with your preferred treatment then wipe the door seals, no over spray. I put the four snow tires on my '94 850 because it has over 300,000 miles and keep the newer ones parked.

I after sitting for a very long time my '98 stumbled on start up and threw the misfire code once with no issues. Reset, all was fine. I bet she is fine and these parents just aren't familiar with the Volvo.

You did not take sprockets off the camshafts, correct?

Cleaning the IAC valve and throttle body stopped the two second low idle at lights on my '94.

Missed that. Did not know 850s even had a GLE version. Now I wish the OP would reply as to where he connected it.

This was killing me and since Abscate was not sure, I went out and looked at my car and its vacuum diagram sticker. Secondary air pump solenoid valve.

Sorry, I do not remember. I have unscrewed some all the way out and there is a o-ring you do not want to lose or distort.

My '94 850 is NA and that is where it goes. It looks like a electric motor.There are two tiny white plastic tubes attached to other side of the device. You can even see one of the white hoses near the throttle cable in the first picture!

Be glad it did not break! I gently go for the lower rad hose. Have had too many issues with those valves.

Snake that connector under and behind the curved accordion throttle body hose( in your pictures) and you will a see the connection on a small device attached to the lower half of the air filter box.

Three different tire types. A Vermont transferable registration with all service done South Carolina. Where was this hiding when hurricane Florence went through?

I think it was RSPI who once put his camera inside the glove box to see if light went out. A forum search show several instances of the door not making contact with switch.

A quick check of glove box or trunk lights?

My guess for the headlight object is a tie down.

Air in the ABS control module? I have read it is a bear to get air out of all the channels without activating the valves and pistons inside the module.

A camshaft position sensor caused those issues on my 850.

I am guessing crank position sensor.

Correct on washer breather hose. Can even see the metal clip in picture, look at yellow sticker and move left, follow the fender ridge down about two inches toward front of car.

My 94 did same thing, also with no codes, until the camshaft position sensor was replaced. It is a silver cylindrical disk just aft of the cap and rotor. Check for corrosion on the connector first. It may not be the issue but is simple to look at.

Try something easy first. Foot on brake, push the shifter while in park forward and then gently try to turn key.

Buy one from a MVS sponsor FCP. their part # 124622

I want to believe "it feels like it keeps 'turning over' for a split second after I've cut the juice." is causing the random misfire codes as each time you shut the car off you get a different cylinder. I second the clearing and wait to see what pops up first.

I may have stumbled on the reason for the wheel laced fluids. I recently put Fluid Film rust and corrosion protection on the surface face of the the rotor where the wheel makes contact with it. I now have the same spiral streaks.

Changed the cabin air filter recently?

Brake fluid nice and clear?

Went to check on spare and noticed the belts on my T115/70R 15 inch compact spare tire have separated. I am thinking the T125/70 16 or 17 inch Volvo compact tires i saw at junk yard would fit the 850. Will measure rim sizes next time i visit the yard. Am I missing anything here?

They also have a team in the World Cup

Sometimes I have used exploded picture diagrams on car part websites to figure things out. Not sure if that is the same as Alldata that Abscate mentioned.

I have seen some nice artistic spiral spews when a CV boot starts to rip.

Are you the first owner of the car?

My '94 850 has a tire label on inside of gas cap door.

You might be surprised how little the stations make on a gallon. Thus the reason most places are selling donuts, smokes, crappy hot dogs under heat lamp rollers, lottery tickets, etc.!!!!!

South of the border.

Next time you see the big rig filling the tanks at your local gas place ask the driver. Most haulers are local that all go to the same fuel depot, fill up and add the brand name fuel's required additives. Unbranded stations get the same gas minus the additives and even that can get muddied into the ...

I think oragex hit on a bigger issue. While at a gas place that my work uses I heard the delivery driver ask where to put the rest of the 87 since the those tanks were now full. Owner said to put the rest in the other tanks! My eyes went wide open as I looked at the owner.

Looks like solenoid shaft hit against the casing. Possible that components are beginning to show their age with larger play tolerances. I would try to protect from water getting into hole as a temporary fix.

Ethanol (E10) blended gas at the pumps is the problem. Ethanol attracts water so if your tank is less than full you have moist air in rest of tank space.

The spring seat of strut is most likely torn. This causes a hollow clunking.

Steering rack and pinon jumped a few teeth?

Before dropping the oil pan, I would really focus on and around that thermostat area for something simple that got bumped or dislodged. Fuel lines, vacuum hose on end of intake, injectors leaking, underside of injector cover, loose injector connector, etc. I once put my hand on the silver injector c...

Looks like this.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 30713305OE

(maybe another $100 for a ball joint tool). Autozone has extensive tool loan program. Free as long as you return the tool.

Throw a second clamp on it.

Injector may have caused the first two codes. Reset and see if they come back

Motronic 4.3 system socket 2 of module A
231-long term fuel mixture too weak or too rich in part load stage
232-long term fuel mixture too weak or too rich at idle
115-faulty signal to no.1 cylinder injector

Assuming 4 speed automatic tranny, it is the the big bolt on the right side of picture.

Well now, I am certainly learning a lot. Had to read the posts a few times understand them but that is my converter problem.

The first time he tried to change lanes he did not use turn signal. The last time he changed lanes he still did use turn signal. Everything in between, impressive feat.

While you do have to have the rear rotors off to attach the parking brake cable, it is not required for inspections on automatics in PA.
Was not a hard job though, I spent more time pulling carpet and center console to snake the cables.

Relax and hang in there. Keep feeding the info and your animals. No one has to reply to your posts if they think you are troll but others will.

Coolant also becomes acidic over time. The Feds pushed auto makers to reduce the amount of waste fluids that have to be collected or recycled for environmental reasons thus we get long life fluids.

My son's Honda CR-V has a folding table in trunk floor where the 850 spare tire is. Certainly stronger than the cardboard that covers our spare tires. I have seen Volvo owners like this one before. Pontificating, windbag types.

Engine block coolant drain.

Have you pulled wheel and looked around?

Technology has come a long way since my 1977 Old Town!!

Sounds like the Royalex material my canoe is made out of.

Definitely check out Crutchfield. I have done lots of cars with them and they give you everything. Correct fitting components, adapters so you don't have to cut original harness, instructions, kits when necessary, free lifetime help etc. Once on a 240 I was getting a buzzing from a RCA to line out p...

I have used the liquid tape on the lead wire for the code boxes in engine and other things around the house. Seems to be holding.

Looks like it snaps onto something like a bolt as cover. Look for something that is matches that worn area in middle.

Having never worked one of those, I think the male spline is missing a circlip or is it deformed and would go into that groove at the tip.

I think that was the name of the place that was getting bashed pretty hard on here a few years back.

Are you sure the plug wires are in correct firing order and routed correctly?.

Keep it. Just watched my boss' 2012 BMW suv $6500 transmission get replaced. Coworkers 55,000 mile Jeep MOPAR engine get replaced, both due to manufacturing defects. Honda recalling more than a million cars, Takata airbag recalls, etc. I am not looking forward to the day when I have to get a new car...

On average four years is getting up there for battery life. Pull the trigger and get a new one and move on.

Idle Air Control hose

I think those are power steering pipes.

Here is old list of OBD readiness issues from the EPA. Lists brand/ model/year. https://permanent.access.gpo.gov/gpo26271/420b12044.pdf

You are correct Abscate. If I remember correctly after the u shaped clamp is off there is a little cut out just behind hose to slip hose out of bracket.

It sounds like the pad wear indicator and/or rust on rotor and then goes away when brakes are applied on video bite. I am leaning towards pads/rotor/caliper. I think metal plate would continue its contact screeching when brakes applied.

cn90 has nailed the more important issue, the torn cv boot. It is now slinging grease everywhere. The axle will be coming out to either replace boot or replace axle. Eventually the car will not move with a failed cv joint.

Used Pledge furniture polish as suggested by older posts with this issue. Spray on rag, gently wipe and repeat. Worked good on my window switches a few years back.

Don't over think this. Check age of battery and have it load tested.

Went 39,000 and 5 years on Empi before it tore. FCP offered to take back but return shipping cost more than part and I felt I got my $8.00 worth out of it. Replaced with Volvo brand.

I have painted them while on. Most of my time was spent on prepping the car with painters tape and paper to prevent over spray.

http://www.wegotused.com/
Harry's has three locations and lists inventory for each yard.