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P80 C70 Hvac Drivers side only hot air, damper motor position, map of position counter, internal pictures

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scot850
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Post by scot850 »

But does it now work?

Neil
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
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1993 850 GLT -Sold
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2000 V70 SE NA - Sold

CoupeC70
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Post by CoupeC70 »

No, allways hot and slower air from drivers side.

I've just ordered a used ECC unit. To rule that out maybe.
I got fried in the car in today's temperatures... closed the vents on the driver's side to get less fried πŸ˜­πŸ˜…

CoupeC70
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Post by CoupeC70 »

I recently replaced the ECC module, but unfortunately, it didn't fix the issue. Honestly, I should have thought of this earlier and checked the live data first.

Looking at the live data now, it’s clear that the temperature blend door actuator isn't moving at all.

So, I need to replace the actuator. Has anyone here done this before? How difficult of a job is it?

The other problem is that you can't buy these actuators brand new anymore. I'm a bit skeptical about buying a used one, though. Any advice?

Chieber
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Post by Chieber »

I used this write up to regrease my actuators. It actually worked one ore them. The other one I replaced with a junkyard piece and works flawlessly still.
1/2 a shitbox V70 1998 2.5 NA

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jreed
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Post by jreed »

I've repaired and replaced the driver's side actuator. The repair consisted of cleaning off the grease, and it worked well for about 8 years until the carbon traces wore down. Recently I replaced the actuator with a used one and it has been working well for about 1-2 years.
1997 855 GLT (Light Pressure Turbo) still going strong. Previous: 1986 240 GL rusted out in '06, 1985 Saab 900T rusted out in '95, 1975 Saab 99 rusted out in '95, 1973 Saab 99 rusted out in '94

CoupeC70
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Post by CoupeC70 »

Thx, ☺️
How difficult is it to replace the actuator? Is it easy to access?
Is calibration required?

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jreed
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Post by jreed »

It's pretty difficult to access the actuator. The hardest part in my experience is removing two of the three screws that hold it to the side of the center ducting -- they're difficult to see and difficult to remove without dropping them. There have been some detailed descriptions and photos here on MVS that will give you a more in depth view of what's involved. Some of the work has to be done on your side or your back, so you need to be a bit agile.
I found that when I did the first replacement and just cleaned out the actuator, I was able to reinstall it in exactly the same position and calibration was not required.
When I replaced the actuator with a used one, I had to run through the calibration process, which was successful.
1997 855 GLT (Light Pressure Turbo) still going strong. Previous: 1986 240 GL rusted out in '06, 1985 Saab 900T rusted out in '95, 1975 Saab 99 rusted out in '95, 1973 Saab 99 rusted out in '94

CoupeC70
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Post by CoupeC70 »

That doesn't sound good πŸ˜…
Are there links and videos with instructions?

I haven't found any so far.

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jreed
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Post by jreed »

For removing and installing the actuators, MVS has a page describing one method here:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/ecc-c ... rs-damper/

For cleaning the actuator, there is this MVS post:
viewtopic.php?t=51078
1997 855 GLT (Light Pressure Turbo) still going strong. Previous: 1986 240 GL rusted out in '06, 1985 Saab 900T rusted out in '95, 1975 Saab 99 rusted out in '95, 1973 Saab 99 rusted out in '94

CoupeC70
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Post by CoupeC70 »

I'll give it a try.

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