But does it now work?
Neil
P80 C70 Hvac Drivers side only hot air, damper motor position, map of position counter, internal pictures
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scot850
- Posts: 15483
- Joined: 05 Apr 2010, 14:46
- Year and Model: 2000 V70 R
- Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
- Has thanked: 2197 times
- Been thanked: 1851 times
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
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CoupeC70
- Posts: 58
- Joined: 14 Mar 2019, 07:19
- Year and Model: C70 Coupe '01
- Location: rf
- Has thanked: 10 times
- Been thanked: 2 times
No, allways hot and slower air from drivers side.
I've just ordered a used ECC unit. To rule that out maybe.
I got fried in the car in today's temperatures... closed the vents on the driver's side to get less fried

I've just ordered a used ECC unit. To rule that out maybe.
I got fried in the car in today's temperatures... closed the vents on the driver's side to get less fried
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CoupeC70
- Posts: 58
- Joined: 14 Mar 2019, 07:19
- Year and Model: C70 Coupe '01
- Location: rf
- Has thanked: 10 times
- Been thanked: 2 times
I recently replaced the ECC module, but unfortunately, it didn't fix the issue. Honestly, I should have thought of this earlier and checked the live data first.
Looking at the live data now, itβs clear that the temperature blend door actuator isn't moving at all.
So, I need to replace the actuator. Has anyone here done this before? How difficult of a job is it?
The other problem is that you can't buy these actuators brand new anymore. I'm a bit skeptical about buying a used one, though. Any advice?
Looking at the live data now, itβs clear that the temperature blend door actuator isn't moving at all.
So, I need to replace the actuator. Has anyone here done this before? How difficult of a job is it?
The other problem is that you can't buy these actuators brand new anymore. I'm a bit skeptical about buying a used one, though. Any advice?
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Chieber
- Posts: 160
- Joined: 01 Mar 2025, 18:21
- Year and Model: 1998 v70
- Location: Netherlands
- Has thanked: 69 times
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I used this write up to regrease my actuators. It actually worked one ore them. The other one I replaced with a junkyard piece and works flawlessly still.
1/2 a shitbox V70 1998 2.5 NA
- jreed
- Posts: 1665
- Joined: 08 Mar 2009, 05:43
- Year and Model: '97 Volvo 855 GLT
- Location: RTP, North Carolina
- Has thanked: 384 times
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I've repaired and replaced the driver's side actuator. The repair consisted of cleaning off the grease, and it worked well for about 8 years until the carbon traces wore down. Recently I replaced the actuator with a used one and it has been working well for about 1-2 years.
1997 855 GLT (Light Pressure Turbo) still going strong. Previous: 1986 240 GL rusted out in '06, 1985 Saab 900T rusted out in '95, 1975 Saab 99 rusted out in '95, 1973 Saab 99 rusted out in '94
- jreed
- Posts: 1665
- Joined: 08 Mar 2009, 05:43
- Year and Model: '97 Volvo 855 GLT
- Location: RTP, North Carolina
- Has thanked: 384 times
- Been thanked: 221 times
It's pretty difficult to access the actuator. The hardest part in my experience is removing two of the three screws that hold it to the side of the center ducting -- they're difficult to see and difficult to remove without dropping them. There have been some detailed descriptions and photos here on MVS that will give you a more in depth view of what's involved. Some of the work has to be done on your side or your back, so you need to be a bit agile.
I found that when I did the first replacement and just cleaned out the actuator, I was able to reinstall it in exactly the same position and calibration was not required.
When I replaced the actuator with a used one, I had to run through the calibration process, which was successful.
I found that when I did the first replacement and just cleaned out the actuator, I was able to reinstall it in exactly the same position and calibration was not required.
When I replaced the actuator with a used one, I had to run through the calibration process, which was successful.
1997 855 GLT (Light Pressure Turbo) still going strong. Previous: 1986 240 GL rusted out in '06, 1985 Saab 900T rusted out in '95, 1975 Saab 99 rusted out in '95, 1973 Saab 99 rusted out in '94
- jreed
- Posts: 1665
- Joined: 08 Mar 2009, 05:43
- Year and Model: '97 Volvo 855 GLT
- Location: RTP, North Carolina
- Has thanked: 384 times
- Been thanked: 221 times
For removing and installing the actuators, MVS has a page describing one method here:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/ecc-c ... rs-damper/
For cleaning the actuator, there is this MVS post:
viewtopic.php?t=51078
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/ecc-c ... rs-damper/
For cleaning the actuator, there is this MVS post:
viewtopic.php?t=51078
1997 855 GLT (Light Pressure Turbo) still going strong. Previous: 1986 240 GL rusted out in '06, 1985 Saab 900T rusted out in '95, 1975 Saab 99 rusted out in '95, 1973 Saab 99 rusted out in '94
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