ojdorson »
I’m considering Eibach springs with either of the Koni struts or the Bilsteins TCs.
I’m doing this because my current stuff is completely shot. I’ve bought EVERYTHING else that touches the struts and just need to pick struts and springs. I want a comfortable ride and increased performance, in that order. I live near Chicago and commute into the city and see plenty of terrible roads. My 1996 Volvo 850R has ~200k miles on it.
Prices are;
~$850 for Koni FSD with Eibach
~$700 for Koni Sport (Yellow Adjustable) with Eibach
~$500 for Bilstein Touring with Eibach
I don’t want a huge drop, but I certainly don’t want my R raised up any. I’ve read that Eibachs give the least drop – is that true?
My research seems to indicate that the FSDs with Eibach springs would be the very best and give me the comfort AND performance I’m looking for.
- Are they $350 more comfortable and performable(?)?
- Is it worth anything to spend (or save) the money on the Koni Sports?
- Is the softest setting on the Sports any softer than the FSDs’ “softness”?
Any and all experience and opinions are welcome here. Thanks a ton!
ojdorson »
JRL wrote:
You’re not absorbing what’s been said to you… are you?
BILSTEINS RAISE THE CAR UUUUUPPPPP!
You would have a huge front rake on a car that already has a front slope set
You could adjust the front Konis to more or less come close to matching the rears but they are a different shock
Bilsteins are gas filled, Konis are not, Bilsteins are MUCH choppier, even TCs, (plus the above ride height issue)
At the moment, my rear is much lower than the front and having a slope downwards to the front wouldn’t bother me a whole lot. Your comment about the different type of damping (gas vs what in the koni’s) is helpful, though. heck, over on VS, it seems like people mix Koni fronts and Bilstein rears on purpose!
Here are my thoughts, based on what’s been said.
- IF I use Bilstein TC, Im going to have to get the Eibach springs now as the car will sit unattractively high without them.
- IF I use Koni Adjustables, I can’t use the nearly-new Bilstein TC rears I got for almost free. I will need to buy fronts and rears.
- The Koni yellows are nearly the same price as the FSD. The FSD should provide both a fantastic ride and handling but I won’t be able to adjust them firmer or softer.
If I use Koni’s, I don’t *have* to get the Eibach springs, but I probably should. So, it seems like the best thing would be to get the Eibach/Koni kit at the best price I can and just have the wallet hurt for a little while.
Springs and Struts – Time to buy… Koni, Bilstein, Eibach
Last Updated on July 25, 2024
8 Comments
I am a Volvo LOVER! I Replaced my stock suspension parts with the Koni FSD
kit, it makes the car handle much better in high speed curves and strenght line.
My only problem is I did not use the camber kit, and the shop that installed the Koni FSD kit did not replace the bump stops at the top of the struts. And you know the poor condition of American roads, just multplie times 10 here in Alabama! Which a hole other STORY!! My question is what should I do? Thanks
FCPGroton.com has all your struts and springs at the lowest price you will find anywhere else on the net, dont second guess me man, Im just a Volvo lover and driver, and one who has made too many mistakes buying shit parts from Auto Zone, Napa, Pep Boys, Etc. FCP Groton has life time warranties, and you can see the difference in there heavy duty well machines parts that come from Volvo, and Saab, and aftermarket brands that are top of the line for almost half the price… No Joke man. Check it out for yourself. – VolVO0o $70 T5 % SPD Man. illll
@Christian, +1 for stock, or OEM. I’m swapping my IPD sway bars for stock after having caused premature failure of numerous other suspension parts (end links, strut spring seats) over the last 3 years.
I’ve used the Bilstein TC’s on my wifes 99 v70 in an effort to improve the stiff and uncomfortable ride from worn stocks shocks and springs. It was a big mistake. The TC’s are actually quite firm (ride quality improved waaaayy less than I hoped and not much more than worn out stock) and while I can imagine they do wonders for handling on a car that is built out to perform, I don’t think they’ll be the best best for your setup. On top of a stiff ride, they raised the level of the car .75-1″ which doesn’t sound like what you want either.
Frankly from everything I’ve seen out there for these 850/S70/V70, if you want the best compromise between performance and comfort, the best bang for your buck is a new stock setup. I live in Michigan so I have the same road quality concerns you do. I’m putting a set of Monroe’s on my v70 beater this weekend to compare the ride quality diff with my wife’s. Thats how far I was willing to let the pendulum swing from the TC’s.
Hey, I own a repair shop, and my advice is this. You can have the best engine, exhaust, headers, intake, interior, ignition, turbo… literally everything. But if you want your car to perform, you need to realize that there are only 4 contact points between that car and planet earth. Improve that contact point any way you can, and you have a better car. I usually splurge on suspension, tires, and brakes… and skimp on engine mods.