Volvo_240_Atari_2600 »
I have a 1989 245 non turbo engine with automatic transmission at 265k miles.
Last time I had the T Belt/Water Pump replaced was at a Pep Boys in Orlando, Fl at 192k.
I have all the needed OEM parts including a new Crank Pulley as it shows signs of wear and I may as well do it all.
However… This time I will replace the tensioner as well.
I’ve read the stored thread on the detailed “how to” on the T Belt replacement here on MVS.
My big question as it does notr explain in the thread nor in the repair books (Haynes) is how to replace the tensioner.
I’ve seen the details about inserting a tool between the spring and the tensioner.
My concern is what holds the pressure of the spring (compressed?) in order to r&r the tensioner.
I did the complete T Belt replacement on my wife’s old v70 some time ago using MVS’s detailed how to. It went well and I used a CAM LOCKING tool from IPDUSA.
My other question and concern is since there is no cam locking tool for these engines, is it possible to carefully remove and install the new belt without disturbing the cam or crank position?
Any help on this topic will be helpful.
The tensioner is a spring loaded eccentric held by the center fastener. You’ll have to pry this outward and tighten the nut to hold it while routing the belt. Loosening and tightening the tensioner nut will set it in place.
Volvo 240 Wagon Timing Belt Replacement + Tensioner Tips
Before removing the old belt, loosen the tensioner nut and pull or push on the belt. You’ll see the tensioner move and understand it’s action better. Reloading the spring and tensioner takes a bit of concentration.
Volvo_240_Atari_2600 »
The repair database here only covers (the special) tool scenario with the timing belt replacement and (keeping) the existing tensioner by just loosening it.
My fear, since I never did a t-belt on the 240 engine is “What tension is on that spring?”
I am afraid that if I simply remove the tensioner, I may not be able to re-install the new one I purchased without any kind of special tool or procedure to compress the spring.
Does anyone know what needs to be done as far as physically removing and replacing the tensioner?”
Timing Belt, Seals, Tensioner, Balancer Preventive Maintenance in B23/B230 Series. [From RPR: illustration copyright and used by permission]
Four-cylinder engines 1976 and later all drive the camshaft(s) and intermediate shaft with a toothed timing belt. This part is replaced during normal maintenance every 50,000 or 100,000 miles, depending on your year and model. See the owner’s manual. It is highly advisable to change the seals on cam, intermediate and crank shafts when changing the belt at 90,000 miles or more. Additionally, at 135,000 or more miles, consider replacing the timing belt tensioner since its bearing will not last much longer. Always carefully inspect the crankshaft sprocket for cracks along the keyway that locks it to the crank. If your front seals (or any engine seals) are leaking, or you find your dipstick pushed up after running the engine, check your flame trap! For 960 B6300 series engines, see 960 Timing Belt Change below. [Motor Magazine, Jul 2004] One belt manufacturer estimates that 50% of newly replaced timing belt failures are the result of nonreplacement of faulty tensioners and/or idler pulleys. So the best thing to do is to install all the components at the same time.
https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/EngineSealsBeltsVent.html#Timing_Belt_Seals_Tensioner_PM
89 240 “Complete” T Belt-Tensioner, Water Pump Replacement
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2 Comments
what keeps the crank shaft pulley from spinning ?
the timing belt gear appears to be in perfect condition, but i can’t keep the pulley tight enough against it to keep it from just spinning. this started as i was driving down the road last week, it’s in the yard now awaiting me to fix it.
is there a key that connects the crank to the pulley thats missing ?
completely confused here !