AWD Broke – Can He Convert it to Front Drive Only?
MVS Forums Contributor renns asks about AWD to FWD Conversion on a 2005 XC70, much like 1997-2000 Volvo owners do all the time, like here, and here, and here.
renns » I have been driving my 1998 V70 AWD as a FWD for more than 150k kms by removing bevel gearbox and driveshaft. I did have to bond the drive sleeve into the transmission to seal it up, but other than that, it was a straight-forward removal, and I’ve had no issues since. I’m now looking at getting a newer Volvo to replace this old girl as I’m up to around 360,000 kms now. What I’m wondering is if newer AWD Volvos can be converted to FWD as easily as my old ’98? There is a low mileage 2005 model for sale locally with bad bevel gearbox that might make a good addition to the fleet if it can be converted to FWD easily. If replacement of the gearbox is the only option, the car is much less appealing due to replacement costs.
OK, I picked up the XC70, 90,000 miles, in very nice shape overall. I had it towed home yesterday, put it up on stands tonight, and pulled the driveshaft and bevel gearbox. The rear driveshaft seems to be in useable condition, although the CV’s in each end seem stiff and likely need re-packing. The problem, however is the bevel gearbox as reported by the previous owner. The output to the rear driveshaft was very loose, and oozing gear oil.
I’ve attached a few pictures. It looks like there really are no user-serviceable parts inside. The gears have tooth damage, and the bottom of the housing was full of roller bearing pieces. At the split line on the housing there was some grey assembly paste that didn’t seem to be ‘factory’ installed. Looking at the cover casting, it appears this box has been apart to modified and re-sealed per Volvo’s TNN ‘Angle Gear Fluid Leakage’. It’s not a good sign that the box has failed now, with so few total miles on the car.
In any case, the question now is what to do… I am on the search for a replacement box locally, but am wondering about driving this car in the meantime. The drive collar stayed in the transmission, and I can make up a keeper to retain it like I did a few years back on my old V70, so that’s not a concern. My only reservation is with regards to setting codes/warning lights. Will pulling the AWD fuse prevent that? I’m hoping to lure a reply to two with the pics below!
I’m confident in the mechanical aspects of the conversion – it’s the computer/codes issues I’m concerned about, as the newer cars have a much ‘smarter’ AWD system than my old ’98.
– Pete – » On the driveshaft/rear cv joint removal topic –
I’ve actually been contemplating making 90 or 45-degree M6/8 grease zerk I can fit into the rear of the oscillation damper. Pump grease in a couple holes, drive around a while, pull bolts, see if it’ll budge, if not, drive around (close to home!) with bolts removed etc.. a lot like trying to get a seized dually inner wheel unseized from the hub. Maybe leave 2 of the bolts just backed out a couple turns for safety type deal.
I’ve only really had a struggle with removing 2 rear CV’s from the oscillation damper. But going forward I’m thinking I’ll force grease into the oscillation damper flange a week or two prior to attempting disassembly on known stubborn subjects.
