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How to Test and Repair your EVAP Valve

Ready to test and repair your EVAP Valve?

EVAP valveThe purge valve is a common failure item on the Volvo 850/x70 series. This is a great how-to with easy-to-follow pictures for a fix to avoid buying a new valve.

I have adapted this from my original tutorial for the BMW M30 engines. They both use Bosch systems and the valve is identical. What happens is that at startup the valve stays open to draw fumes caught in the charcoal canister. The fumes are there because they evaporate from the fuel tank. This is why your gas cap is usually checked at emissions inspections and why the manual says you may have a temporary check engine light when you fill up with the car on. The only place evaporating gas can go is the charcoal canister which is then pulled into the intake at startup.

This is pretty much always the P0455 code.

Read the rest of this fine tutorial w/ photos: How to test and repair your EVAP valve

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Anonymous User says:

2002 V70XC.
A couple of years ago got an intermittent “Check Engine” light going on and off while driving. The dealer told it was EVAP code, whatever it was, and suggested replacing J hose, the purge valve, & the canister, and possibly the pump, at the cost close to $2k. I decided I can drive it with the light on, and kept driving it without repairs.
At about same time I began hearing a slight hissing sound under the dash. Over time, the sound got stronger, and brake pedal got stiffer. The same dealer told me it’s brake booster, some $600 part, not even counting work. They refused to replace just the seal. So I went to a corner gas station, and they agreed to replace that $30 seal. As an added benefit, EVAP codes are gone, no more “Check Engine”.

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