This topic has 21 comments in the Volvo forum.

1998 Volvo V70 AWD Fuel Filter Change

MVS Forums contributor rmmagow, a veteran of writing excellent DIY Volvo tutorials, throws down how to do a fuel filter change on a 98 V70 AWD.

Just did this over the weekend and wanted to write it up. I’m a bit of a luddite and don’t own a camera and have no clue how to get pictures off my phone, so words only. This is a 2 wrench level of difficulty.

Fuel Filter Change Steps

  1. Open hatch back and remove all your junk.
  2. Open spare tire cover, remove spare tire and associated crap.
  3. Remove spare tire cover. It has “flats” at the ends. When you open it, you will see how these flats line up so you can easily remove the cover.
  4. Open the other cover. Note, these instructions are different if you have a third seat. I don’t so…
  5. Flip the second row seats down. Optional, but give you a little breathing space.
  6. Look on both sides next to this second cover. You will see two 10MM bolts on either side. Remove these.
  7. Grasp the second cover and pull gently from side to side to disengage the whole second cover assembly from its mounting points.
  8. There are TWO access panels to be removed. The big one has 5 10mm nuts holding it on. Remove them.
  9. The second access cover is located under that scary looking bunch of wires just a bit up and to the left of the big access cover.
  10. That bunch of wires is held in place with two black plastic push on connectors. The push on connectors are like trim type connectors. Gently work a flat blade screwdriver around the connectors to loosen them. Remove the connectors, don’t be tempted to leave them in place, they’ll fall off.
  11. The big bunch of wires are mounted in some kind of fixture that has been freed up in step 9. Gently lift that, move it to the right and using a 8 to 10 inch piece of duct tape fasten it out of the way.
  12. Second access plate is now visible. Remove the 4 10mm nuts and the plate.
  13. OK, now have a look around. The big access plate lets you see where the filter is held in place by the clamp, the second smaller access plate you can see where the filter is connected to the line leading to the front of the car. This second access area is the only way to get at that part.
  14. 12mm bolt holding the filter. This can be difficult to remove. Spray the bolt head and underneath the bolt with you favorite rust buster stuff. This bolt can be tough. I was afraid I’d snap it or wreck the clamp. I think you can buy a new clamp and nut from Volvo. I have a battery powered impact wrench and that removed the bolt easily. I think a socket and a quick rap on the socket handle might do the trick too.
  15. Put the rear of the car on ramps or jack it up on the right side and put it on a jackstand. In either case, use something to block the wheels. do not work with just the jack. Use stands.
  16. Get underneath and have a look around and marvel at the ridiculous extra level of complexity for mediocre AWD.
  17. Using your flashlight, find the fuel filter and the rear most connector. Gas Alert. Relieving pressure isn’t totally necessary, not much comes out. Grasp the rear most hose on the filter and rotate back and forth a bit and pull rearwards. It will come off pretty easily.
  18. You are going to have to get back into the car to remove the front of the filter connector.
  19. Look through the smaller access hole with a flashlight and you’ll see the front connector. It is a tight fit, but you can get your hand in there to at least feel the connector. I couldn’t get a good enough grip on it. I took the open end 17mm wrench, worked it between the filter and the connector and pried forward ’till the connector came out. A pickle fork would work too.
  20. Returning to the big access hole. That nut at the bottom of the clamp can be worked through the mounting slot to completely disconnect the filter from the car body. Squeeze around and fiddle it through the slot.
  21. Back under the car, reach up and work the old filter out of there. You might have to move a hose or two, be gentle. Check the condition of those rubber hoses you can see/touch. I think this is the roll-over valve here and broken hoses there give the P0410, gross leak code.
  22. Note how the filter clamp is positioned and how the filter was oriented in the car. The ridged part of the filter faces the back of the car. Remove the clamp from the old filter and put it on the new. You might need to spray some release agent around to get the clamp off. Mine came off easily.
  23. Before putting the new filter in place, take off the end protectors and spray a light shot of WD40 on there. Put the end protectors back on.
  24. Back underside, work the new filter roughly into place so you can go back up top to put the clamp back where it was.
  25. Work the captive nut part of the clamp back into place and loosely tighten the 12mm bolt in place. Use anti-seize on the bolt. Leave a little slop for now.
  26. Go back under the car. Remove the end protector from the filter’s back connector. Work the hose back into position and push it on the end connector. With the WD40 it should just slip right into place.
  27. Go back up top and look through the smaller access hole to find the hose there. Remove the end protector, position the hose and push it on. Yes, it is a snug fit there, but doable. Push it as far as it’ll go. There should be less that 1/2 inch between the end of the hose and the body of the filter.
  28. If necessary, shift the filter around so it’s in the clamp like the old one. Tighten the 12mm bolt. Not gorilla tight. About as tight as a spark plug I’d say.
  29. Get in the car, turn the ignition key to the second position, turn it off, remove the key, put it in again and turn it to the second position.
  30. Flashlight, look closely into both access holes to 100% be sure there are no leaks. Start the engine, check it again. Look underneath the car and just be sure there’s no dripping at all.
  31. Shut off the car. Get it off the ramps or jack. Reassemble all the stuff you removed. Be sure to use the push on connectors to hold the wire loom in place.
  32. When putting the second rear cover in place, note how the hooks go under the parts on the left and right and angle to second cover in place such that you won’t be chafing any wires.
  33. Check the pressure in your spare tire now that it’s out.
  34. You are finished. Make a promise to yourself to buy a GLT next time around.

1998 Volvo V70 AWD Fuel Filter Change

Photo 301.jpeg
Accessing the fuel filter from the rear cargo floor
Photo 302.jpeg
The filter is held down with 12mm bolt holding it in place (step 14)
Photo 303.jpeg
Electrical connector

Subscribe to the MVS Newsletter

The MVS Volvo Newsletter is a once-a-month email delivered to your email. It’s simple to unsubscribe at any time if you change your mind.

Visit The Official Volvo Cars Website