My ’04 XC70 has 107k miles and the rotors are just below minimum so I’ll be replacing them with new pads in the next couple of weeks. I understand that there are 2 sizes of rotors on this model and then, of course, corresponding pads so I need to know which are on mine before ordering parts.
1) I have not found any good write-ups for this pretty straightforward brake job, can someone point me in the right direction if there are one or more helpful resources out there (I do not have VIDA)
2) I mostly need torque specs for everything, especially and most urgently for the wheel lug nuts as I will pull a wheel to measure my rotors before ordering parts.
3) Are there any surprises I should know about (seals or O-rings or anything I might thrash and would want to replace as a matter of routine while I’m doing the front brakes)?
abscate says:
“I use an electric impact wrench to remove, but the car jack handle to tighten the lug nuts/bolts. That way, when you get a flat on the highway, you have a shot at getting them off.
All data lists wheel lug nut torque at 80 FT lbs. if your wrench is 12 inches long, put 80 pounds of force on the end. This would be for dry nuts. With lube, you would use less torque.
For most people, putting a foot onto the factory wrench will over torque the lugs. It’s better to under rather than over torque. They have to be grossly under torqued ( 10 FT lbs or less?) to come loose.”
oragex »
The right moment to also flush the brake oil because you need to push the pistons back on each caliper to fit the new pads. Don’t force the piston back without opening the bleeder, it could damage valves in the brake circuit
- open the bleeders and while bleeding don’t push the brake pedal all the way down, only about 1inch at most (or it will damage the master cylinder)
- rear bleeders will be seized, use penetrating oil weeks in advance, don’t force the tiny bleeder.
- after opening a bleeder, push the piston back, this way the old oil behind the piston will drain
- a bleeder doesn’t have to be tighten back too strongly
- at all time keep an eye on the fluid reservoir so it doesn’t go below MIN line
Servicing the caliper
- remove the sliding pins and pull out the rubber boot
- sand all the rust inside the hole in the caliper where the sliding pins rubber is seated. make sure you see clear metal all around inside the hole. rust builds up there preventing the pins to slide normally.
- add grease on the sanded surface so the boot slides back in easily.
- grease inside the boot only with silicone grease (all other grease will damage the rubber)
It’s a great moment to also inspect the front wheels flexible (rubber) braking hose. it tends to crack at the lower portion and needs replacing.
