Volvo Forum + Help for Owners
Latches, mounts, engine mounts, struts, hinges and fasteners
The RPM are 840 on both “N” and “D”, however when I throw it on the “N”, the sound goes away.I tried, having it on “D” and holding the brakes, to raise RPM to about 1100, and that is when the noise is most evident.The best described it is a very low intensity roar and slight vibration.
Driver Door Lock Shim Does the Job When your Volvo’s door thinks it’s open even when it’s closed, that’s one annoying problem. Here’s a simple, cheap fix that…
MVS Contributor Sledddriver goes on an multi-month blistering repair & fix odyssey, taking his 1998 V70 T5 from the edge of roadworthiness to 100% functional and reliable… all for not…
MVS Contributor oragex posts a photo of over torqued Alternator/ AC compressor bolts on his S60. That’s all. No deep story here. Just a photo of stretched threads on bolts. The stretched,…
MVS Forums Contributor and advanced shadetree-level mechanic JimBee puts together a 288MB, 30-page downloadable PDF monster filled to the top with how to rebuild your Volvo 5-cylinder whiteblock engine. Then…
Need to know what parts to buy for an engine rebuild? Big Will steps in and knocks this list out of the park, with many excellent tips and…
MVS Volvo Forums member Martin Calva details his attempts to find the right Volvo part number, and install rear mudflaps on his V90.
Need to know how to use a 98 C70 Seat Adjust ? On my 98 C70 the lever on the side of the seats so you can move…
How to ID a Collapsed Subframe Bushing
My dashboard mount saga began about 5 years before this post with the purchase of a 1996 850 Platinum Edition turbo. When I purchased the car the right hand side of the dash was literally flopping around when going over bumps and all of the movement resulted in a lot of noise. I pulled the dashboard and the initial repair was documented in Volvo 850 Dashboard Mount Repair.
Fast forward 5 years and the evaporator decided to give up the ghost. Following the same procedure as before, I removed the dash and set forth to replace the evaporator and restore the air conditioning in the car. Over the 5 years and 75,000 miles the dash had started to get noisier and it would squeak badly if the car was left out in the sun or if the defroster was run on a high temperature in the winter.
If you keep any car long enough, chances are the hood cable will break at some point. Mine just broke the other day. New Volvo Cable for my 1998 S70 is Volvo PN 9444027, $36 at dealer.
Only after I did this job that I realized that this can be done for $3 using a bicycle cable with diameter approx. 1.0 mm (and much less time than because you remove nothing doing it this way)!
I recently pulled my hood release… and disaster. Nothing happened. It turned out I was lucky: the crimp on the end pulled off, so I was still able to open the hood with pliars. I couldn’t get a replacement cable in good time, so instead just crimped a new end on the old cable. Obviously I’m worried about how weak it might be getting, so decided to add “emergency” opening cables which are accessible from outside the hood.