mmgibson »
Hey guys,
No one told me that the control arm bushings have to be pressed in with a hydraulic press!!Not that you should have or maybe I should have know that since it was in my Haynes Manual if I had read it before doing the repairs..
I think if there is a represenative that reads these posts from FCPGroton, that it would a good little note to put with your part description, “A hydraulic press my be needed to install bushings!!” Would be a nice customer service addition, Since they sell them seperately… If I would have known this before ordering I would have just ordered the control arms! I will now order the control arms to finish the job I had hoped to finish this weekend.
I do take Lee’s advice to heart as I do most everyone’s here at this forum… But I have already replaced the Brake Rotors, Pads, Calipers, and Rubber Brake hose…. Nothing seems to stop the vibration.. then when getting it inspected they showed me the control arm bushings.. I can grab the hub, pushing in and out and watch the bushings move with ease….
Included below is a photo of the parts I am going to need to replace, Tie rod (I called it a steering arm in last post) I am ordering it allong with the control arms..
I would like to know if there is any pitfalls when installing these… They appear to screw on to the steering rack… is there a trick to know you are getting them on the same exact way the old ones were…?
I have the new control arms ordered so that I can replace the ball joint (which is leaking grease out the bottom) and the bushings all at once…
The link Confused_al provided me with was an incredible help with installing the new hubs!!! I followed it nearly to the letter.. The new hubs from Groton’s (FAG) were impressive looking but ought to be for 100 bucks each.. I have read that you need to torque the bushing bolts down once the car is at RIDE HEIGHT ONLY…
the only way I can think of doing this is installing them basically loose… lowering the car… then putting a floor jack under the control arm lifting the wheel off the ground to remove it then torquing them to spec… Is this the correct procedure???
photo sorry a bit blurry
A- Tie rod end bushing is cracked around the circumference of the bushing..
B- Sway bar bushing? they appear to be in good shape
C- Bushings I need to replace in order to pass inspection and now am ordering the complete control arm to replace.
mmgibson wrote:
the swaybar is marked B and circled in the photo… Correct?
The sway bar is the thick one (U shape steel rod on the right of your pic), the skinny one connected to the strut is the sway bar link by which the sway bar connected to both sides.
mmgibson wrote:
Change out control arms, tighten control arm to subframe bushing nuts lightly on each side.
Lower car off jack stands.
Slide jack under control arm just inside of ball joint, lift tire off the ground.
Remove tire and torque the control arm to subframe bushing down tight to 51 ft-lbs.. then an additional 120 degrees….
I left car on jack stands, then jacked up the new control arm at wheel side (use a small piece of wood for protection), right under where control arm connected to the knuckle . At an estimated “ride height” I then torqued the number and with approximately 120 deg. 
mmgibson wrote:
Also my Haynes Manual shows them using a Balljoint separator to remove the tie rod end (A in photo). Is there a trick for popping this loose if you don’t have a balljoint separator? Or should I pick one of these up before the job?
Yup, that will make your life easier.
mmgibson wrote:
Then test drive..
Does this sound ok? or is there something different I should do?
After you tie-rods replacement, drive to a shop get alignment done.
Control Arm, Hubs and Tie Rod Replacement
Last Updated on August 19, 2020
