Such Thing As A Reliable Volvo under $4000?
Should I Buy A 12-ish Year Old Volvo?
Another group of opinions from some of MVS’s most active and experienced Volvo owners and DIY’ers regarding the classic question what brand of car should I get?
1997volvo850 » We purchased our first 850 back in 1997. Our only criteria was safety.
This video is the crash test Volvo did for the 850. It is not a video of my wife driving our 850, though
I often think it could be.
Volvo 850 Crash Video
https://www.youtube.com/embed/aN4o8TERuoY
I just picked up a second 850 GLT (81K Mile) for under $4,000. Had to put some work into it so
I’m not sure I got much of a deal but I believe it will last me another 150K Miles. First thing I did
was change the timing belt. Runs a lot better than my other 850 with 230K, which is why it is
currently in my garage.
Others may have a better idea of what models are selling for less than $4,000. Volvo 850s are selling
in your price range. By 1997 Volvo worked a lot of bugs out of the 850 so I would only buy a 1997 Volvo 850 GLT.
The big thing with owning a Volvo is service. You must service these babies. We spent thousands of dollars
over the years taking our 850 for service at the Volvo dealer. A timing belt is $400-500 every 70K.
The timing belt on my kia is half that. If you are at this site you might be thinking about working on
your own car. This site is the best thing around for people that own Volvos. Most Volvo dealers take
you for a ride.
If you have no money to maintain the car then I’m not sure Volvo is for you. I’ll take my 3200+ lb 850 over
any of these new cars weighing half as much, especially if I happen to run into one.
kingbarley » As a fellow college student who picked up his first car, a 1997 volvo 850 R for $3650, I can say that it’s kind of a crapshoot. I bought my car with 131,500 miles on it, and in the 7,000 miles or so that I’ve driven it since purchase in late October, I’ve had to replace the following things:
Fuel Pump – $100
Battery – $100
Spark Plugs, Cap, Rotor, Wires – $120
PCV System – $115 (plus $180 to have it done professionally)
and Mass Airflow Sensor – $150
Grand total of things I haven’t personally caused – $765
Not to mention the damage that I have incurred upon the car from various potholes which is around $1,000 for rim repair, lifetime alignments from Firestone, and new tires…it’s a pretty expensive little lady.
The car was maintained immaculately prior to my purchase of it as well, the guy had all the service records in a book for me when I bought it, and he had spent around $4-5 grand on it during his time with it (timing belts, camshaft leak, radiator, etc etc).
So if you still have your heart set on a Volvo, try and find one that has had most of the age-related issues already worked out, otherwise you’ll be looking at an incrementally hefty maintenance record. But all said and done, I still love my car more every time I drive it…so I guess that’s priceless?
Edit: models and years? late model 850’s (it’s more expensive but you’ll love the R if you can get your hands on one), or the S70 T-5 is pretty much the newer body design equivalent of the 850R. If you’re not looking for performance necessarily, I would recommend a GLT?
jblackburn » Honestly, as a former college student myself, my advice would be BUY A HONDA.
If it doesn’t have maintenance records, or hasn’t been well taken care of, an 850 could cost you a fortune. The 940’s or older models could be worth a look in your case, however.
I love my Volvo to death, but honestly if you cannot do the maintenance yourself or must rely on someone else to do the work for you, it will eat you alive with repair costs. Likewise, if you don’t have time or a good set of tools like I (still) never had, it’s hard to find an opportunity to fix it. Mine seemingly always has another problem popping up.
If you are mechanically inclined to work on it by yourself, by all means, go for a Volvo. There are great sites around like this one to help you out with your new car
My family has owned 3 Hondas, along with a smattering of other cars, but aside from my 1988 piece of junk Accord, the other 2 have had ZERO problems over the 7 years we’ve owned them. My girlfriend owns a 2004 Civic, and while it’s not easy to work on with my big hands, she’s never had to do anything to it but change the oil and at one point, a crankshaft sensor. You can find a 1998-2001 4-cylinder Accord for under 5K. The V6 models commonly have auto tranny problems, but if you can find one in a stick, they are an absolute BLAST.
Last Updated on September 13, 2022
